Searching for Tron Power Brick

wontwa

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I realize this is questionable forum etiquette, but I've got this beautifully restored non-working Tron upright sitting here next to my LE and it's killing me. The voltage coming off the +5 is in the 9 range (minimum). I've posted a thread about that elsewhere on the forum, and all signs point to replacing the power brick. If anyone has one of these for sale, PLEASE contact me. Just looking for the blocks that sit on the board in the bottom, I already have the harness and everything else. The brick I have looks like this:

https://plus.google.com/u/0/photos/...5664651730364396433/5664651730592399666?hl=en

I've made this request a few times in the WTB thread to no avail and hoping it's just getting overlooked, so posting this here this one time for greater visibility. THANK YOU.

photo.jpg
 
....aaaaand just noticed I've had 2 or 3 replies to the WTB thread since I've last looked at it. It sat dormant forever. That's what I get for not subscribing to thread.
 
It's probably easier if you seek a MCR power adapter to use a switched power supply. There are lots of big capacitors in the original supply.
 
If you have the switcher installed, you don't need the filter cap assembly. You could probably just get an isolation transformer and some fuse blocks and wire the rest up yourself.
 
Yeah if you have a working switcher I have no idea how you would get 9v on the 5v line. More importantly I'm not sure how a working power brick (or bad for that matter) would make a working switcher output high on the 5v line.
 
Yeah if you have a working switcher I have no idea how you would get 9v on the 5v line. More importantly I'm not sure how a working power brick (or bad for that matter) would make a working switcher output high on the 5v line.

Yeah, it's an odd situation. The thread where someone else (and myself) posted this issue is here:

http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=2882&highlight=tron+voltage+high

My assumption of needing a new block comes from cadillacman's quote in that thread of:

"my theory: if you have a bad isolation transformer(they usually make more voltage strange but true), and your tapped into ac power there, your feeding the switcher 130-140vac instead of 110, its gonna output more voltage too..

so i guess check your loaded ac power at the terminals of the switcher and report back"

I've tried two different switching power supplies (wired properly) to the same results.
 
I haven't had a chance to read the original thread (will do that next), but maybe you have a ground problem. It's floating and making your multimeter read +9V. Do other rails read properly?
 
I haven't had a chance to read the original thread (will do that next), but maybe you have a ground problem. It's floating and making your multimeter read +9V. Do other rails read properly?

You may be on to something. Thanks for the idea - will check that out next.
 
Yeah, it's an odd situation. The thread where someone else (and myself) posted this issue is here:

http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=2882&highlight=tron+voltage+high

My assumption of needing a new block comes from cadillacman's quote in that thread of:

"my theory: if you have a bad isolation transformer(they usually make more voltage strange but true), and your tapped into ac power there, your feeding the switcher 130-140vac instead of 110, its gonna output more voltage too..

so i guess check your loaded ac power at the terminals of the switcher and report back"

I've tried two different switching power supplies (wired properly) to the same results.

Try wiring it somewhere else. Like on the marquee light wire? Is the monitor not powering up too?
 
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