Search for Mortal Kombat control panel ends with mini project

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Search for Mortal Kombat control panel ends with mini project

Okay so I finally found an unmolested control panel for my dedicated Mortal Kombat. Thanks to descrentl for reminding me of a CL post for 2 empty Mortal Kombat cabinets located in the Detroit area. I had seen the CL post, but it was Wednesday night and by the time he reminded me of it in my WTB thread, I figured they had to be gone or trashed as they were supposed to be. It turns out the seller still had both of them let alone just the parts and after discussing their condition on the phone, I figured they had to be less faded than my current MK cab. One of them was still in tact as an MK and the other had been converted to something else. The in tact one had a bit of water damage, but the art was pretty good especially compared to mine. The second one had an absolutely horrendous paint job attempt with nasty blue latex paint. I was able to see the progress someone had already made in removing it and the art appeared to be in nice condition overall, so I decided to take a chance on the converted one. The seller was nice enough to give me the control panel off the other machine so I still had my control panel either way. Tonight I started working on stripping off the paint along with help from JoshBrown80. It's been a super tedious process of using a heat gun, but we're planning to attack with Citri-Strip tomorrow. We tried a small test spot and after only sitting for maybe 3 minutes at most the paint came right off with just a paper towel! Anyway, here's a few before shots showing what was previously uncovered plus a current status shot. I also wanted to show just how nasty the paint job is on this thing. Overall the art is in pretty good shape and not very faded. Just thought I'd share because I've seen some other MK cabs uncovered. :) The plan is to swap over the guts from my current MK cab which is severely faded. BTW if anyone is interested, that cabinet will be free for the taking once everything is transfered over (assuming all goes well otherwise it would be this cab I'd give away lol). I'd hate to see it go to waste as it's still very solid and clean, but faded.

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Here's where we got after a good 2 hours of work...a very slow process for sure. We have been hesitant to use Citri-Strip because of bad results previously, but that particular cabinet had vinyl art that was severely damaged...probably played a role in the outcome. Our test spot came out great, but we're going to be careful around any areas that look damaged.
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The horrible paint job...this side, which we started on, has really thick paint in spots.

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One side uncovered...virtually no fading on this thing. :) It's got some battle scars and scrapes, but still pretty nice. Citri Strip definitely helped, though you have to be careful around anything white as we've heard before. Overall it's pretty nice and a better option than my current cab.

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if your looking to get rid of your other cab i would love to take it off your hands if someone has not beat me to it already. by the way nice work on removing the paint.
 
if your looking to get rid of your other cab i would love to take it off your hands if someone has not beat me to it already. by the way nice work on removing the paint.
Thanks for the comment on removing the paint. You're the first to ask about the cab so it would definitely be yours if you want it. I can let you know when I get the guts transferred over to the new cab which will hopefully be this week. The other cab would be almost entirely bare wood and even the cp box would be missing. It would have the marquee glass, marquee bracket and I believe the z bracket as well.
 
im gonna try this stuff on qbert, its got a nasty layer of black paint on it.

I just know it would gum up the sandpaper if i dont remove it first.

Looks awesome, though it looks like he will fall on that poor dragon..
 
Thanks for the comments guys. The plan is to hopefully do the other side tonight. The coat of paint is much less thick on that side so hopefully it will come off easier and faster.
 
Woohoo side 2 is done! It came out even better than the first! Big thanks again to JoshBrown80 for helping work on the cabinet. Between the 2 of us we were able to get the thing done pretty quick and transfer all the guts between the cabs. I thought it would be fun to line the 2 cabs up for comparison shots and then a quick one of the machine as it sits.

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bright colors. looks great!
Does that stuff have a strong smell or irritate when it drops on your skin?
 
Citri Strip has a mild orange smell and it didn't bother me at all. I managed to knock the bottle of it off my work bench as I was working on stripping the paint and I spilled a little on me....it didn't hurt my skin but of course I wiped it off real fast too.
 
I might be in the minority, considering how much praise MK2 gets, but I always found the MK1 sideart, particularly when it's not faded, to be the best looking of the series. it might even be the trapezoid shaped front with the PCB trapdoor that I find appealing too, lol.

the MK1 my grandparents had was in one of those Omniflex Universal cabinets... which is the same, but black with that like pink wavelength graphic on the side with the kit sideart.

excellent work, too bad it's faded on the other cab. :/
 
Big Difference! Looks good, just need to find the right sharpies and color in those scratches.

In personal preference, MK1 is the better cab. :cool:
 
Big Difference! Looks good, just need to find the right sharpies and color in those scratches.

In personal preference, MK1 is the better cab. :cool:
I've thought about using some Sharpies to touch it up. The black would theoretically be easy, but some of the other colors I'm not sure. At the same time I figure where there is vinyl missing, I don't know if I'd like the look of Sharpie on bare wood. Battle scars don't bother me much, but in this case I'm at least debating the idea lol.
 
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Really nice so far man. :)

So, are the control panels supposed to naturally come off like that (from the base)? My MK2's control panel is "loose" and lifting up every time I open the CP. Is there something I should be tightening or is it wood glued/wood screwed in and likely getting tore up?
 
Really nice so far man. :)

So, are the control panels supposed to naturally come off like that (from the base)? My MK2's control panel is "loose" and lifting up every time I open the CP. Is there something I should be tightening or is it wood glued/wood screwed in and likely getting tore up?
Thanks for the comment. I'm super happy with how it turned out even with the few scratches it has.

It sounds like you are referring to the whole control panel box and not just the piece of wood and sheet metal where the joysticks and buttons mount. There should be 3 or 4 carriage bolts that hold that entire control panel box in place to the cabinet.

Edit: If you are talking about just the part with the joysticks, yes it can be taken off the main base. It should be attached to a hinge of some sort with a few screws.
 
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Thanks for the comment. I'm super happy with how it turned out even with the few scratches it has.

It sounds like you are referring to the whole control panel box and not just the piece of wood and sheet metal where the joysticks and buttons mount. There should be 3 or 4 carriage bolts that hold that entire control panel box in place to the cabinet.

Edit: If you are talking about just the part with the joysticks, yes it can be taken off the main base. It should be attached to a hinge of some sort with a few screws.

Yeah, entire box attached to the base. Thanks for the info! My machine is too squeezed in right now for me to really dig in there and it was making me worried. :p

So, what's next with this MK? :)
 
Yeah, entire box attached to the base. Thanks for the info! My machine is too squeezed in right now for me to really dig in there and it was making me worried. :p

So, what's next with this MK? :)
Well next I have to decide how to handle a wiring/pcb compatibility issue. The kick harness wiring is setup for t-unit or later hardware and my pcb is Y-Unit. I need to either get a T-Unit pcb or mess with the wiring. After thinking about it I think it would be easy to change the connector at the pcb end to 12 pin from the current 15...the rest shouldn't matter. I did acquire a NOS cpo thanks to KLOVer Mylstar. :)
 
I love these type of threads, its like barn finds for classic cars
 
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