Sea Wolf Repair Page...

Alan173

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I finally got around to documenting most of the repairs I made to get my Sea Wolf machine up and running 100%. For those of you out there lucky enough to have a perfectly running machine - AWESOME! For those looking for some tips....hopefully my page can bring a few more of these incredible machines back to life. Repair information on the internet for this machine is very limited and that needs to change. After clicking the link below then just click on the Sea Wolf 'marquee' for the details...

http://users.wowway.com/~ookpik72/repair1.html

Alan

(I figured I would drop this in the repair section as well...)
 

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Looks good Alan,

I was looking through your webpage and you arcade looks awesome! You wanna invite me over for a partay? I'll be in your neck of the woods in a week-- food for thought?!?

-Jim
 
Thanks for the guide...it'll certainly help me in my ventures to fix my Sea Wold.

I got a strange issue. I still haven't attempt to fire the game up with the board in it.

I have about 8.5 volts at the +5..I capped and replaced the VR on the PS and still have the same issue.

So I took the PS from my working Space Invaders Deluxe and stuck in in the game...that blew a fuse.

I put the SID power supply back in the SID and now I have no sound or marquee 'light' (bulbs).

I did find a bad diode on the SW PS. It looks like there might be some creative wiring going on in the SW...not sure what yet but it looks like some wire have been moved around in the connector. I got the wiring schematics but haven't had a chance to go through them
 
Thanks for the guide...it'll certainly help me in my ventures to fix my Sea Wold.

I got a strange issue. I still haven't attempt to fire the game up with the board in it.

I have about 8.5 volts at the +5..I capped and replaced the VR on the PS and still have the same issue.

So I took the PS from my working Space Invaders Deluxe and stuck in in the game...that blew a fuse.

I put the SID power supply back in the SID and now I have no sound or marquee 'light' (bulbs).

I did find a bad diode on the SW PS. It looks like there might be some creative wiring going on in the SW...not sure what yet but it looks like some wire have been moved around in the connector. I got the wiring schematics but haven't had a chance to go through them

You need to get the +5 down. That 8.5 volts will FRY stuff.

That may be ok for french fries but not for ic chips

What you need to look at is the +5 volt line. The regulators, caps, and resistors. Don't plug in the board with that kind of voltage. Bad things WILL happen.
 
Wish this page had been around when I had a Sea Wolf.
 
Thanks for the guide...it'll certainly help me in my ventures to fix my Sea Wold.

I got a strange issue. I still haven't attempt to fire the game up with the board in it.

I have about 8.5 volts at the +5..I capped and replaced the VR on the PS and still have the same issue.

So I took the PS from my working Space Invaders Deluxe and stuck in in the game...that blew a fuse.

I put the SID power supply back in the SID and now I have no sound or marquee 'light' (bulbs).

I did find a bad diode on the SW PS. It looks like there might be some creative wiring going on in the SW...not sure what yet but it looks like some wire have been moved around in the connector. I got the wiring schematics but haven't had a chance to go through them

Do not plug in your boardset until that is fixed. Did you replace the pot ? The Lm305 ? Marquee lights not working is probably a blown 5amp fuse in the bottom of the game.
 
I had 3 Sea Wolfs , Sea wolves, whatever you want to call them, and faced a multitude of problems. I will have to do a log too when I am done and have time. Hatrick has been helping in return for one of the games. The problems I am dealing with now are 2 explosion lights that stay on together and then turn off at times and then come right back on. They are the 2 that are together and are second from the right. Locations 6 and E on the schematic. Replaced transistors and chips E1 and F1 with no help. Also have a mainboard that will not allow me to aim the torpedoes. No matter where you point the periscope, they come out at the same place. Confirmed it's not a daughter board issue.

Sea Wolf is my favourite game but it sure is a PITA.
 
Thanks for the guide...it'll certainly help me in my ventures to fix my Sea Wold.

I got a strange issue. I still haven't attempt to fire the game up with the board in it.

I have about 8.5 volts at the +5..I capped and replaced the VR on the PS and still have the same issue.

Check the 2N3055.....that's what usually causes this issue.

Edward
 
Check the 2N3055.....that's what usually causes this issue.

Edward

Might be a good idea to have a few of these on hand and a few extras.

I try to include extra fuses with every cab I have.

I just staple a small plastic bag to the side with spare parts/fuses/notes/dipswitch
 
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I had 3 Sea Wolfs , Sea wolves, whatever you want to call them, and faced a multitude of problems. I will have to do a log too when I am done and have time. Hatrick has been helping in return for one of the games. The problems I am dealing with now are 2 explosion lights that stay on together and then turn off at times and then come right back on. They are the 2 that are together and are second from the right. Locations 6 and E on the schematic. Replaced transistors and chips E1 and F1 with no help. Also have a mainboard that will not allow me to aim the torpedoes. No matter where you point the periscope, they come out at the same place. Confirmed it's not a daughter board issue.

Sea Wolf is my favourite game but it sure is a PITA.

Yup....if you own a Sea Wolf.....and actually turn it on.....then you realize it is a tough SOB to get running 100%!

Explosion lights - don't forget to check G1 (7417)....as a fault there can make the lights get screwy. Once you know E1/F1/G1 are good and the transistors are good (checked out of circuit)....to me the next is to dive deeper into the decoding of the explosion lights. Meaning....the periscope location when fired along with the direction of the ship you just hit (requires 2 people to check it). There is a table to test the outputs in that Arkush manual.

Aiming - I originally had an issue where most of the time I just would have torpedoes going up the left hand side. First I found my periscope tracking at the opto-isolators were hit and miss........so I replaced those. There is a commutator table on the schematic to check the 4 output points of the opto's (bits 3/4/5/6). Once I know those were good I had to clean/adjust the contact board located in the top of the cabinet. Then after that I still found a crummy connection or two that required tweaking....

This is the second time going through my Sea Wolf and I thought I had everything 100% the first time! NOT!......
 
I did replace the VR it once already with the PS cap kit. Before the cap kit and VR replacement the +5 was walking between +4.5 and +9V. Now it's holding steady at about +8.5V. I quick test of the board is showing a bad diode but I have no idea what circuit it is in...I haven't looked that closely at it

I didn't fire the game up with the board in it as I can't get the +5V right...but I'm pretty certain that the board was in the game with the faulty power supply...even though I received the game with the board out of it.

Now if there was only about 45 hours in a day...I might be able to take a better look at it =)



Might be a good idea to have a few of these on hand and a few extras.

I try to include extra fuses with every cab I have.

I just staple a small plastic bag to the side with spare parts/fuses/notes/dipswitch
 
I did replace the VR it once already with the PS cap kit. Before the cap kit and VR replacement the +5 was walking between +4.5 and +9V. Now it's holding steady at about +8.5V.

Ooops, sorry......I took VR as variable resistor...IE: the voltage pot.

Check to make sure you didn't install the 2N3055 backwards. If you install these backwards, that issue will result. Also, voltage bouncing around is usually a sign of a bad/dirty pot.

Edward
 
Will do...

I certainly hope that isn't the case but anything is possible

I probably should have been more clear..VR = Voltage Regulator (at least least in my little world =))

Ooops, sorry......I took VR as variable resistor...IE: the voltage pot.

Check to make sure you didn't install the 2N3055 backwards. If you install these backwards, that issue will result. Also, voltage bouncing around is usually a sign of a bad/dirty pot.

Edward
 
Will do...

I certainly hope that isn't the case but anything is possible

I probably should have been more clear..VR = Voltage Regulator (at least least in my little world =))

Yeah, I generally assume VR is voltage regulator too, but you never know.

The 2N3055 isn't a voltage regulator.....it's an amplifier. Your VR is the LM305.;)

Edward
 
Yup....if you own a Sea Wolf.....and actually turn it on.....then you realize it is a tough SOB to get running 100%!

Explosion lights - don't forget to check G1 (7417)....as a fault there can make the lights get screwy. Once you know E1/F1/G1 are good and the transistors are good (checked out of circuit)....to me the next is to dive deeper into the decoding of the explosion lights. Meaning....the periscope location when fired along with the direction of the ship you just hit (requires 2 people to check it). There is a table to test the outputs in that Arkush manual.

Aiming - I originally had an issue where most of the time I just would have torpedoes going up the left hand side. First I found my periscope tracking at the opto-isolators were hit and miss........so I replaced those. There is a commutator table on the schematic to check the 4 output points of the opto's (bits 3/4/5/6). Once I know those were good I had to clean/adjust the contact board located in the top of the cabinet. Then after that I still found a crummy connection or two that required tweaking....

This is the second time going through my Sea Wolf and I thought I had everything 100% the first time! NOT!......

E1,G1,F1 were all ready replaced along with the transistors, and the opto's have been removed and bypassed.
 
Well now..

Maybe I should bust out the schematics...I'm pretty sire I replaced the 2n3055 think it was the VR. That would certainly explain this issue I'm having

Will have to check it when I get home tonight...

Yeah, I generally assume VR is voltage regulator too, but you never know.

The 2N3055 isn't a voltage regulator.....it's an amplifier. Your VR is the LM305.;)

Edward
 
So just update...

I tested the POTs and have full range on the +5 (100 ohms)

I did confirm that the 2n3055 is installed properly.

I found a bad a14-373 diode (tested open)

I also found a toasty 4.7w resister that tested closer to 7w..this may very well be my problem

I'm gonna order some parts but my question is about the LM305. I see this had 8 legs...how do you identify the direction that this is installed..or doesn't it matter?

Well now..

Maybe I should bust out the schematics...I'm pretty sure I replaced the 2n3055 think it was the VR. That would certainly explain this issue I'm having

Will have to check it when I get home tonight...
 

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So just update...

I tested the POTs and have full range on the +5 (100 ohms)

I did confirm that the 2n3055 is installed properly.

I found a bad a14-373 diode (tested open)

I also found a toasty 4.7w resister that tested closer to 7w..this may very well be my problem

I'm gonna order some parts but my question is about the LM305. I see this had 8 legs...how do you identify the direction that this is installed..or doesn't it matter?

Pin 8 is the pin with the tab.....and then pin 1 is clockwise from it looking at the legs.....and then you count the pin numbers around back to 8......just double check it on the data-sheet.....


Alan
 
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