Screwed up...

A - you MIGHT be able to find appropriate diodes at RS. Look at the number on the diode and check to see if they have the same.

b - you have to check over the entire chassis to see if you have shorted transistors, diodes, etc. Might even be a bad flyback. try unplugging the degauss connector to see if that changes anything...
 
It would be better if the amps were the same (1 amp) so that it will protect the rest of the chassis better if something like this happens again, but those should work. The ratings are the MAXIMUM that they can operate at, so they'll take a higher amperage or voltage before blowing. That might mean more damage farther in your chassis should someone do this again....
 
right on. i think i will just order the correct diodes. new problem

chassis b: did a lot of checks, did some resoldering. went plugged it up and tried it again. r103 smoked. a lot. no fuse blow. so i know r103 is toast, but what should i look for for the cause of that.
 
I usually see R103 smoke if you power it up without connecting the DAG wire. If you had it connected, then check all those diodes around the filter cap...
 
It's the wire that goes around the back of the tube (that touches the aquadag (the black stuff on the back)) and it connects to the neckboard.
 
holy hell. i replaced the diodes on chassis a, plugged every thing up, fired it up, and boom. as picture! at first i didn't have the controller board (where you adjust h size and so on) plugged in and i got very garbled image. i then plugged in a controller board (not the one that was with the cab previously) and getting a different image, but, still, very garbled and unviewable. i am going to pull the correct controller board out and see what it does. so some progress on one. hopefully i can tune in an image. or do you think there is more damage to the board that would be causing the "rolling" picture?
 
ok, so i am getting rolling video. i looked at my video connector on the new GT cab and the video connector on the old cab. The old cab has an extra wire at the end, which I googled and fount is a sync wire. so i out the monitor back in the old cab, power it up and voila. nice picture. now my question is, how would i get the new cab to sync up since it is missing that wire on the connector?
 
more research on my end. the sync cable was on the new video cable, just in a different location. moved it and it works! i feel a sense of accomplishment, even though i screwed this monitor up by making a stupid mistake. now, the other chassis, still needs more work...
 
mod: i had this same issue with this monitor before. no matter how i adjust it, i can't get the top to fit correctly. by this i mean i have to "oversize" the image to get the image to adjust to the top of the monitor, thus cutting off quit a bit off the bottom of the screen. what would cause this? would a cap kit fix it?
 
Show me a pic here. It's always a good idea to do a cap kit, especially when you have issues with adjusting the picture...
 
here is a picture. i can adjust h position any higher then it is now...
 

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i am pretty sure it is a k7000. it has the correct controller board as far as i know. tried with another board, same issue. can't adjust it enough...
 
i am pretty sure it is a k7000. it has the correct controller board as far as i know. tried with another board, same issue. can't adjust it enough...

What I meant was - does it have P538 or P447 written on the chassis (close to the HOT in big numbers)? P538 is for the 25" and P447 is for the 19". It almost looks like a 19" picture on a 25" tube...
 
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