[ Scratch Build ] 90's Midway Control Panel Box, MK3/UMK3

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[ Scratch Build ] 90's Midway Control Panel Box, MK3/UMK3

*** Edit 7/19/2017 *** > https://db.tt/xfsEG9CAvD <remember to measure several times before you cut lol. archive has adobe illustrator files of parts ( all separate files ) and scale to print pdf's for each part... Est accuracy is 85% and +/- 1/16in or so


My 1st attempt at making anything from scratch, my carpentry aint that good, so hoping this goes well. Since it is hard trying to find a original one that
someone willing to let go beit sitting on a shelf or parting out due to cabinet being damaged or converted, I am making one from scratch..
The whole process took months to get all the data/direction from several people on here (boostin4hp ,zenomorp, jp335i & twistedsymphony ),
just like to sat thanks to all of you...

With general shapes collected from classicarcadecabinets.com cad files for mk3 & importing them to adobe ai, made exact dimensions of each part
with measurements collected. the result is scale to print pdf's of each piece of the box. I have all artwork already thanks to boostin4hp so
when its done, I can just lay it over the wood. margin of error is 1/16in or so...

The final product will look like or close to the original one seen below...
oiECu7t.jpg


Ill be using 3/4in plywood beit sanded or raw. I had files printed @ office depot where I used to work for last 9 years using cheapest paper possible
and all this cost me under $20 after taxes. I then used adhesive spray on the wood then layed the template over it and cut with either my table saw
or jigsaw where needed....

the cpo will be tricky one to do. what I did is using the template from classicarcadecabinets.com, provided by twistedsymphony. I grabbed the
image right on the money maker (marked outline) then in illustrator I created exact size of the top panel, dropped the image on top and stretch it to
the size of the panel. I checked template using grid overlay in adobe ai and its straight as an arrow across the panel so I'm hoping that
it will line up with the artwork..

L8DPADN.jpg


Whats going to happen next is bondo to cover knotches in wood (drives me nuts) and sanding to get it just right. I left 1/16 outside of cutouts so I
wont go too close with the cuts & ill sand rest of the way to edge of the part


What I do have is Wood, art sticks and buttons (my sticks have wrong color bat handles blue inst of red and only buttons I have to spare is all black ones)
what I don't have is tmolding and something to cut the groove with. ill look into it when time comes...

questions &/or suggestions, just ask....
 
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Glad to see the plans from the website are being used. If you have any recommendations on anyway I can change them to make it easier, LMK.

The wood will have to be primed...possibly multiple times to remove the grain pattern from the wood. The original was cuts from particle board / pressboard, which is a bit smoother and paints well. I usually use Kiltz oil based primer (sometimes multiple coats) on my veneered birch prior to painting.....and sand it until super smooth. Any/all of the imperfections will appear when the art is applied. You can also use drywall mud to fill the grain (sand it nearly all away) prior to painting with the Kiltz as well to speed up the process. For the control panel, a sheet of laminate across the top may make finishing much easier.

You can find the slot cutter for the T-molding here.....

https://www.t-molding.com/installation-tools.html

Or shopping other sources as well.

Good luck with the project.

Thanks
Brian
 
Glad to see the plans from the website are being used. If you have any recommendations on anyway I can change them to make it easier, LMK.

The wood will have to be primed...possibly multiple times to remove the grain pattern from the wood. The original was cuts from particle board / pressboard, which is a bit smoother and paints well. I usually use Kiltz oil based primer (sometimes multiple coats) on my veneered birch prior to painting.....and sand it until super smooth. Any/all of the imperfections will appear when the art is applied. You can also use drywall mud to fill the grain (sand it nearly all away) prior to painting with the Kiltz as well to speed up the process. For the control panel, a sheet of laminate across the top may make finishing much easier.

You can find the slot cutter for the T-molding here.....

https://www.t-molding.com/installation-tools.html

Or shopping other sources as well.

Good luck with the project.

Thanks
Brian

thanks.. I'm gonna take my time esp with cuts and I will prime with heavy coats to cover the grain but lot wont show cause artwork will cover it all up but underneath the art it will be all black
 
Sides Done

had some time before i head to work to unload 52' trailer for home depot and got other side piece cut and shaped...

iPzcJ0M.jpg

VMps3qN.jpg

afAZpVl.jpg

VCwiQz8.jpg



needs bit more sanding/bondo work to make it even with 1st piece I cut but once done, both sides should be perfect. I'm not worried too much about
the surface where the tmolding goes as once groove is cut you wont see blemishes

when its time to assymble, I likely will have to do touch up bondo work to make sure its square...
 
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I don't men to sound like a jerk but ...

Why not use some finish-grade ply? Or black melamine? Particleboard or even MDF? Any of those are going to give you a nice, smooth surface to begin with. All that Bondo isn't going to do you many favors.

Also, you will see the blemishes on the t-mold surface. The t-molding will want to form itself around the shape it is set into. Any unevenness in that edge will show through.
 
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I don't men to sound like a jerk but ...

Why not use some finish-grade ply? Or black melamine? Particleboard or even MDF? Any of those are going to give you a nice, smooth surface to begin with. All that Bondo isn't going to do you many favors.

Also, you will see the blemishes on the t-mold surface. The t-molding will want to form itself around the shape it is set into. Any unevenness in that edge will show through.

plywood is cheaper lol and the edge I'm going to smooth it out before I cut my slot into it. it may look like shit now but wait till its done
 
Did quicky mocky up and I'm all GIGGITY GIGGITY.....
this wont be going into a cabinet, once done I'm going to make a nice base for it and put board, power supply, harness & coin door etc in it.....

oZF5yxL.jpg


not using wood blocks but metal/alum brackets & wood screws. don't have nail gun and making it work with what I have on hand in my garage....
 
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raw Asstmbly Komplete!

cut last remaining pieces and corrected some things to my illustrator files and finished the hard part...

Motivator...
d03OZIX.jpg



the Top....
tGojIAh.jpg

78Aj2QO.jpg


... Komplete
lsaJ87O.jpg


looks like the cpo lines up with drill template I have, did test with buttons on joystick holes and they seem ok... going to patch gaps next now that its
together and take my top to eplastics company for a top for it. I know the metal is perfered for cpo but I'm going to get wood or
cardboard 1/2in or 3/8in w/e i can find at work. Accuracy overall id say is same as cabinet site 85-90% i believe & within 1/16" but over all I'm happy
 
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Wow this is a awesome thread! Fantastic job! Can't wait to see it done!

thanks.. I wish I had a original to draw templates from to be more exact and all, but this will suffice and my carpentry skills aint that good....
it may bee of here and their ( with in 1/16in or so) tried to be exact but its solid with no play....on the cutouts I left some "meat" outside
the cut line that I used my palm sander to knock it down to the cut-outline and I think it turned out well...

Next on list is to get hinge installed on front for the control panel and make sure it lines up and installed

I think this is a learning experience by starting small, my next piece to this is a base for it :p
 
I stole the piano hinge from my neogeo to put into this box and works out good, just need to get clamps, retention ( to hold panel up ) chain not sure
what else I need but I have the rest except jamma harness and kick harness....

SQV2ZtW.jpg


got 2 days off this week so ill be having new hood delivered for my car ( 1st one got damaged, long story ) I'm going to work ( shopping at another
store, don't shop where I work lol ) to find thin piece to put atop of the wood panel, i think its 1/4 or 1/8 ( wood or metal stock, idk w/e is cheaper )
and take the top off and get a lexan panel made where I had my neogeo one made at..
 
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Tuesday, I'm taking the top to get a plexi made for me, I have some at home but nothing large to make a cover..
overall I'm happy the way it turned out so far. some area's aren't perfect but I think it came out Toasty!
 
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