School me on Multi-Williams overlays

tbbk

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Ok, I have my Jrok board, 4" wico sticks and a converted Robotron board all here, ready to make my latest Multi-Williams happen (some years back I had one in a Defender with the old Jamma multiwilliams board).

I have found at least 3 different vendors selling several different designs.

What are the pros and cons of the different vendors, are there any I should avoid?
 
The deal-killer for me on these is that they all put the Defender Reverse button too far from the stick to make room for the 8 way mounting plate.

Might not be a big deal for some people, but after playing Defender and Stargate on real control panels for so long, it really screws me up... I trimmed the mounting plate of a Sanwa to get the button position correct, but it'd look weird because of how the overlays are printed.

When I do my MW project, I'm starting with a Stargate CPO and adding the second stick spot to it.
 
Still my favorite:

P5140629.jpg
 
Yeah, that kind of messes it up for me too.

This guy here reworked it so it would work.

http://www.leeauge.com/sites/leeauge.com/williams/

However he isn't selling overlays.

When I used to have my old mame powered Defender and Stargate combo I drilled out the corner of the joystick base in order to get the reverse button in the right place.

The deal-killer for me on these is that they all put the Defender Reverse button too far from the stick to make room for the 8 way mounting plate.

Might not be a big deal for some people, but after playing Defender and Stargate on real control panels for so long, it really screws me up... I trimmed the mounting plate of a Sanwa to get the button position correct, but it'd look weird because of how the overlays are printed.

When I do my MW project, I'm starting with a Stargate CPO and adding the second stick spot to it.
 

I'm positive the artwork doctor is inkjet- and search on here, as I'm pretty sure most people aren't happy with him.

I think Arcadeoverlays is inkjet too, but not positive.

Back to the Arcade is screen-printed and the one I (and most others) have. I got mine from Darrin when he was still printing them. Mike at BTTA is using those files FWIU.

attachment.php
 
..........Nice job Phet!

.......This is one of my favorite versions, too - but:

Why have 2 different length joysticks?

What length are each of those?

I'm gonna guess that those were the only lengths available for those colors (assuming wico leaf style sticks).

I think I'm gonna try to do this on my setup. If that is the case on those joysticks, I think I might just custom trim down the light blue stick. I think its just a groove that holds the c-clip. Assuming a 1/2" difference I would just throw a light blue stick in a lathe (luckily I have access to one :) ) and add a matching groove a 1/2" over.

I'm guessing the yellow one might only be 3 incher. The light blue one a 3 1/2" incher. I know Robotron 2084 uses 4 inchers which probably feel pretty funky on stubby 3 inchers :(

Another option that would bee pretty cool is I could make extensions so both sticks are 4"....hmmm, maybe I'll go that route?

Would that make sense, or is there something that wouldn't work correctly?

-GackAttack


Still my favorite:

P5140629.jpg
 
.......This is one of my favorite versions, too - but:

Why have 2 different length joysticks?

What length are each of those?

I'm gonna guess that those were the only lengths available for those colors (assuming wico leaf style sticks).

I think I'm gonna try to do this on my setup. If that is the case on those joysticks, I think I might just custom trim down the light blue stick. I think its just a groove that holds the c-clip. Assuming a 1/2" difference I would just throw a light blue stick in a lathe (luckily I have access to one :) ) and add a matching groove a 1/2" over.

I'm guessing the yellow one might only be 3 incher. The light blue one a 3 1/2" incher. I know Robotron 2084 uses 4 inchers which probably feel pretty funky on stubby 3 inchers :(

Another option that would bee pretty cool is I could make extensions so both sticks are 4"....hmmm, maybe I'll go that route?

Would that make sense, or is there something that wouldn't work correctly?

-GackAttack

This is a metal CP. 3.5 inchers are correct. Robotron has a wooden CP which make the 4 inchers really 3.25-3.5 inchers The only pale yellow ball Wicos I could find were 3 inchers. I wanted the correct colors and couldn't care less about length. If someone prodeces a pale yellow ball wico shaft in 3.5 inches, I'll buy it. If not, I'm fine with the 2 lengths.
 
Hmm, just peeled the Tekken Tag overlay off my panel and it is actually pretty good other than the zillion extra holes.

I might just design something to cover the top portion and have my wife print it up at work and save the pricey overlay for later.

IMG_20121003_172245.jpg
 
Hmm, just peeled the Tekken Tag overlay off my panel and it is actually pretty good other than the zillion extra holes.

I might just design something to cover the top portion and have my wife print it up at work and save the pricey overlay for later.

IMG_20121003_172245.jpg

That hurts just looking at it...
 
Yeah, that kind of messes it up for me too.

This guy here reworked it so it would work.

http://www.leeauge.com/sites/leeauge.com/williams/

However he isn't selling overlays.

When I used to have my old mame powered Defender and Stargate combo I drilled out the corner of the joystick base in order to get the reverse button in the right place.

Yeah, but you can download them from his site. Look under graphics and then even more at the bottom. Get them printed like he did.
 
It's a nice design, but is it worth having to use a JLF to have the Defender button close to the stick? That seems like a huge compromise, especially if you're serious about Robotron.
 
You can use a hole cutting bit to cut the corner off a standard wico base and still put the button in the right spot (the button holds that corner of the stick down).

It's a nice design, but is it worth having to use a JLF to have the Defender button close to the stick? That seems like a huge compromise, especially if you're serious about Robotron.
 
That's interesting. I'm planning to use my original panel for Robotron only (it is a Robotron cab originally) and build 2 other panels, one for Joust, one for Stargate/Defender. I had planned to get an original 2-way stick for the Stargate/Defender panel, but if I can modify a Wico I might do that and build just a multi for the rest of the games rather than take an original Defender/Stargate stick out of circulation...

Either way, though, I have to have 4" sticks for Robotron, and not off-center, so I'll still need 2 panels, but a Robotron panel and an "everything else" panel is still a big improvement over what I was planning.

Thanks for that info, I'll look into that!
 
The deal-killer for me on these is that they all put the Defender Reverse button too far from the stick to make room for the 8 way mounting plate.

Might not be a big deal for some people, but after playing Defender and Stargate on real control panels for so long, it really screws me up... I trimmed the mounting plate of a Sanwa to get the button position correct, but it'd look weird because of how the overlays are printed.

When I do my MW project, I'm starting with a Stargate CPO and adding the second stick spot to it.

Thanks, took me a while to actually dig up the link, here is the easier one if anyone else wants it.

http://www.treadplatedesign.com/arcade/

I like the redesign from the link you posted, with the Reverse button being closer to the joystick. And replacing the old lady with a the Joust artwork. I played a Multi-Williams recently and did not like the where the Reverse button was placed. Williams nailed the placement with Defender.
 
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