Scared Stiff battery replacement

tbullet

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My machine needed it's annual battery change and when I opened the backbox to replace the batteries, I noticed one of them was leaking. So I pulled the board and now want to rewire the battery holder with an external one. Here's some pics of the damage.

So when I rewired the board as soon as I put the batteries into the holder, they got hot very quickly. So I know I didn't rewire this correctly.

Can anyone tell me which connectors on the board should the positive and negative go please? I know the jumpers I made are correct, but in the wrong spots. Which connectors for the positive and which ones for the negative.

Thanks.
 

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Just search pinball remote holder install in google, there are lots of places showing how to do it.

Also may need a diode installed in the battery holder if you got a 4 battery style...
 

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Last edited:
My machine needed it's annual battery change and when I opened the backbox to replace the batteries, I noticed one of them was leaking. So I pulled the board and now want to rewire the battery holder with an external one. Here's some pics of the damage.

So when I rewired the board as soon as I put the batteries into the holder, they got hot very quickly. So I know I didn't rewire this correctly.

Can anyone tell me which connectors on the board should the positive and negative go please? I know the jumpers I made are correct, but in the wrong spots. Which connectors for the positive and which ones for the negative.

Thanks.

Do not daisy chain the battery holder holes together, like in your picture. You will only use two holes.....one on the negative side, and one on the positive side.

One of the negative holes will be connected to the ground plane, use that hole for the black/negative wire of your remote battery holder.

One of the positive holes will be connected to a diode network, and then on the the CMOS RAM.....use this hole for the red/positive wire of the remote battery holder.

Edward
 
Ok, So I pulled the board again, took some more pics and have a couple of questions.


ELutz;
You mentioned to look for the negative connector that makes contact with the ground plate, I've taken a pic of the back of the board and circled the connector in yellow. Is this the one you recommend?
Also you mentioned on the positive side to look for a diode network. I see some resistors which I've circled in red. Is this the one you recommend?

Please confirm. Thanks.
 

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Yep, those are correct. If you follow the positive side's trace...you have circled in red. You see it leads to diode D1, and into diode D2.

Edward
 
I think that is the wrong configuration. From what it looks like, the battery holder is basically doing what the board is already doing. Wiring it in series to 4.5 volts. All the jumpers is unnecessary. What you are doing is shorting the battery. You only need to a wire to the ones circled above in tbullet's post red to the red circle and black to the yellow circle. It's been a while since I've seen that board by looking at what pictures are available is what I think may be correct.
 
I think that is the wrong configuration. From what it looks like, the battery holder is basically doing what the board is already doing. Wiring it in series to 4.5 volts. All the jumpers is unnecessary. What you are doing is shorting the battery. You only need to a wire to the ones circled above in tbullet's post red to the red circle and black to the yellow circle. It's been a while since I've seen that board by looking at what pictures are available is what I think may be correct.

Ok, just to make sure I don't fry the board;

Remove the jumpers because I'm shorting the batteries out. ( I thought this would happen)
Positive red goes to the red circled connector;
Black negative goes to the yellow circled connector;
Pray that it works.

Thanks guys.
 
Ok, just to make sure I don't fry the board;

Remove the jumpers because I'm shorting the batteries out. ( I thought this would happen)
Positive red goes to the red circled connector;
Black negative goes to the yellow circled connector;
Pray that it works.

Thanks guys.

Yes, that's it. That's what I thought I was saying in my last post (sorry for making it confusing).

Edward
 
No problem. Thanks for the info.
There is nothing worse than making a mistake on these machines and causing more damage since parts are almost non existent anymore.
Thanks again.
 
Ok, she's all repaired now with a external battery pack which I velcroed to the side of the cabinet. Works like a charm now.

Thanks for everyone's suggestions.
 

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So just one year and the batteries were leaking?

What brand?

I try to remote mount all my batteries, or do the simtek upgrades. If I do the remote batteries, I stick them in plastic bags too, that way if they do pee all over its in the bag.
 
It was just over 2.5 years before they started to leak. The batteries were generic ones from London Drugs. Never had a problem with them before, so I think I may have mixed an older one with the new ones.

On my Robotron cocktail I have the batteries in a plastic bag since the battery holder is above the main circuit board. I may move it to another area.

What's this simtek upgrades you're taking about?
 
What's this simtek upgrades you're taking about?

it's a replacement of the RAM (which needs the batteries to power it) with at least roughly equivalent NVRAM (which doesn't need batteries).

simtek used to make the gold standard chip for this (the STK25C48), but it hasn't been available for some time. dallas (1220AD) and stmicro (M48Z02) make versions that will work, i think (if on the pin side it's the same as on the video side).

i may be wrong on the part numbers, as pins may want different sizes or response times, etc., but that is the concept anyway...
 
2.5 years, okay. I'll have to keep it under 2 years then for the pins with batteries in them :)

On my D&D pin I went the simtek route, replacing the 610x? I think with a simtek chip. I cant remember which, but it was a drop in replacement I believe. 100 year life or something? I dunno, no batteries in it at all.

Other options you can get from here: http://pin-logic.com/

I wish all pins had the option. If you're keeping the pin for years, it pays for itself in battery costs and 'whoops, forgot to change the batteries' mistakes.

And the time to do it is before you set that grand master, super mega awesome high score. ;) Simteks will reset everything!
 
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