Say hello to my Asteroids project!

Cool stuff, it's going to be fun watching the progress. Great thing is you can do the work at a pace that works for you and spread the expenses out over time.

Your coindoors may be fine but just gummed up. You won't believe the amount of goo that gets spilled on these things and then sneaks into every crack and crevice. Take em apart, don't be afraid to wash em out with simple green and then rinse well. A couple days of drying and they may be as good as new.
 
Cool stuff, it's going to be fun watching the progress. Great thing is you can do the work at a pace that works for you and spread the expenses out over time.

Your coindoors may be fine but just gummed up. You won't believe the amount of goo that gets spilled on these things and then sneaks into every crack and crevice. Take em apart, don't be afraid to wash em out with simple green and then rinse well. A couple days of drying and they may be as good as new.

How do I take the red things out?
 
How do I take the red things out?

Oh, I meant wash the whole damn thing.

It definitely comes apart from the back. The coin mechs all come off and finally the reject mechs do.

Page 38 and 39 show a blown up view, but if you look carefully you'll see that a few nuts come off and the whole back comes off, then it's just a matter of pulling the reject buttons out. http://www.arcade-museum.com/manuals-videogames/A/Asteroids.pdf

Take A LOT of pictures or film it and walk through talking about everything you see: "These are the wires from the harness. They attach here and here and here with zip ties. Look at these little bolts, there are seven, they don't have washers." You'll feel a bit silly but will thank yourself later. Sometimes it's weeks until you put it back together and you will forget.
These types of things are invaluable in repairing and then putting back together. Bag all hardware together in baggies and label the bag, like coin door. If you film it well beforehand you'll be able to see the various screws and bolts and where they go. A coindoor is a great jumping off point.

S.
 
Thanks so much for the welcome! Do you have a thread with your Lunar Lander progress? I would love to see how it's going?!

Took a bit of digging, but I found it:

http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=384872

I haven't updated it for a bit, but I'm kinda in stasis on it at the moment. I need to get to my local parts store, and get 10 100k-ohm 1/2 watt resisters to add to my discharging tool(as recommended by people who have worked on g05-801s before). I know a place that should have them. Plus some insulators and thermal compound. THEN I can get to work on this baby.

Oh, I meant wash the whole damn thing.

It definitely comes apart from the back. The coin mechs all come off and finally the reject mechs do.

Page 38 and 39 show a blown up view, but if you look carefully you'll see that a few nuts come off and the whole back comes off, then it's just a matter of pulling the reject buttons out. http://www.arcade-museum.com/manuals-videogames/A/Asteroids.pdf

Take A LOT of pictures or film it and walk through talking about everything you see: "These are the wires from the harness. They attach here and here and here with zip ties. Look at these little bolts, there are seven, they don't have washers." You'll feel a bit silly but will thank yourself later. Sometimes it's weeks until you put it back together and you will forget.
These types of things are invaluable in repairing and then putting back together. Bag all hardware together in baggies and label the bag, like coin door. If you film it well beforehand you'll be able to see the various screws and bolts and where they go. A coindoor is a great jumping off point.

S.

+1 on the video idea. I tend to do my best to take things apart and put them back together again in the same day/work session.... As long as I'm "in the zone" on the project, I'm fine. If I get distracted.... bad things happen.
 
Took a bit of digging, but I found it:

http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=384872

I haven't updated it for a bit, but I'm kinda in stasis on it at the moment. I need to get to my local parts store, and get 10 100k-ohm 1/2 watt resisters to add to my discharging tool(as recommended by people who have worked on g05-801s before). I know a place that should have them. Plus some insulators and thermal compound. THEN I can get to work on this baby.



+1 on the video idea. I tend to do my best to take things apart and put them back together again in the same day/work session.... As long as I'm "in the zone" on the project, I'm fine. If I get distracted.... bad things happen.

There's a long debate about this but bobroberts the man himself said you dont need resistors or safe discharging tools.
 
There's a long debate about this but bobroberts the man himself said you dont need resistors or safe discharging tools.

I will go look at his site..... It kinda surprised me, though... as I'd never heard of that, either. But I've also never worked on THIS particular monitor. My main thing is that I don't want to risk blowing another part we may not be able to afford, you know? I could get lucky.... but I never count on luck. My odds aren't that good.
 
I will go look at his site..... It kinda surprised me, though... as I'd never heard of that, either. But I've also never worked on THIS particular monitor. My main thing is that I don't want to risk blowing another part we may not be able to afford, you know? I could get lucky.... but I never count on luck. My odds aren't that good.

It won't damage the diode bob says basically you're giving the hv a path to ground the volts aren't really going through the diode out its through the tube out the volts are a mere fraction of what it uses while running.
 
It won't damage the diode bob says basically you're giving the hv a path to ground the volts aren't really going through the diode out its through the tube out the volts are a mere fraction of what it uses while running.

Yeah, I'm being told the same thing on another forum..... so I'm gonna just go ahead and hope for the best. There's also the possibility of low voltage in there, as it's not been showing a display for several months.

I've got the cap kit in hand, so damn the torpedoes, full speed ahead and let loose the hounds of war!!!!

There should have been a "cry havoc" in there, shouldn't there...... damn.
 
There are a lot of places that make control panel overlays (or CPO's as they are commonly referred to). Many people on here either sell them or have a good reference to someone who does.

Personally, I try to make sure the game is running before i do anything cosmetic to it. If you have a bad boardset or AR-1, having a pretty cabinet is kind of moot. Albeit I am not really a personal collector (I have a few) but I work as the tech for a bar/arcade with 70 some odd machines, so my priorities are a bit different. A working game makes more money than a gorgeous broken game...

And learning to fix them is half the fun! You could always send the boards off or buy new ones, but there is an excellent source of information here on the forums and some really great people to help you through it. Get yourself a good multimeter and learn to love it. A nice soldering setup has been a godsend for me, and I just recently got into EPROM burning. Still always something new to learn!

Best of luck to you and welcome to the madhouse!
 
Yeah, I'm being told the same thing on another forum..... so I'm gonna just go ahead and hope for the best. There's also the possibility of low voltage in there, as it's not been showing a display for several months.

I've got the cap kit in hand, so damn the torpedoes, full speed ahead and let loose the hounds of war!!!!

There should have been a "cry havoc" in there, shouldn't there...... damn.

If its truly showing nothing your problem probably isn't caps but more like transistors or cold solder. It seems all b/w vectors are notorious for this.
 
There are a lot of places that make control panel overlays (or CPO's as they are commonly referred to). Many people on here either sell them or have a good reference to someone who does.

Personally, I try to make sure the game is running before i do anything cosmetic to it. If you have a bad boardset or AR-1, having a pretty cabinet is kind of moot. Albeit I am not really a personal collector (I have a few) but I work as the tech for a bar/arcade with 70 some odd machines, so my priorities are a bit different. A working game makes more money than a gorgeous broken game...

And learning to fix them is half the fun! You could always send the boards off or buy new ones, but there is an excellent source of information here on the forums and some really great people to help you through it. Get yourself a good multimeter and learn to love it. A nice soldering setup has been a godsend for me, and I just recently got into EPROM burning. Still always something new to learn!

Best of luck to you and welcome to the madhouse!

I am considering sending the boards out to be repaired, so if I do that, during the time they're gone, i'll be fixing up the cabinet so that once they return, it'll be all set!

Any suggestions/people on where to get Astroids CPOs!
 
If you can find a Takeman repro silkscreened panel, then that would be the best choice (but the most expensive).

IMG_0261.JPG
 
Made some small progress this evening.

The power cord is only getting about 10v going into the power block. I tested the outlet to confirm that it is in fact receiving 110v, and it is. So replacing the power cord will be first on the list.

Next - I already knew one fuse was missing, so I need to get another one of those so that I can get full power throughout.

I also noticed that on the main plug which goes into the PCB, that one of the wires has come loose. So I will have to re-solder that in.

I noticed that the main PCB has already been repaired once, and the transistors on the AR1 look really 'new', so perhaps the machine has been serviced, and simply needs a new cord and fuse. Maybe i'll get lucky!

I also find it interesting that the "Asteroids" light will light up with only 10v going into the power! Stay tuned for more!
 
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