Sanyo Sync is killing me!

[rzgrip]

Howdy! Sanyo 20-Z2AW. I decided to recap the monitors from my Punch Out. One came out great but the second one has an issue. I believe it is a problem regarding the sync. The image is rock steady and all adjustment knobs have an impact on the image shown. History; This is not my first cap job by far. I have read every thread that I could find before posting this. B+ is 108v, flyback not turned up too much, Tried H Hold pot and it does "lock in" to this picture. Checked all connections and leads. I tried to "move" all of these hoping to find something loose. Where do I look next? Thanks in advance for all help.

 

[rzgrip]

Forgot to mention that the picture was good before the cap kit. Also, the monitor has the inverter board but I have by passed that since it is not needed.

 

[Dokert]

Reflow the solder on the caps that you just installed and test it again.

 

[KenLayton]

Did you get all the caps in the correct locations and the correct values? All in the correct polarity too?

 

[rzgrip]

I double checked the polarity and proper location of the caps. I guess that I will now remove the chassis (what a pain) and triple check everything and reflow my connections. I wasn't sure that these issues could be the problem. I thought it could be something simple, like a fuse! JK. I will report back. Thanks!

 

[KenLayton]

Where did you get your capkit? Some kits do not include the two non-polar electrolytics.

The upper right corner of the main board is very delicate and can develop cracks in the foil. This is the section of the board by the video signal input cable connector.

 

[Phetishboy]

Howdy! Sanyo 20-Z2AW. I decided to recap the monitors from my Punch Out. One came out great but the second one has an issue. I believe it is a problem regarding the sync. The image is rock steady and all adjustment knobs have an impact on the image shown. History; This is not my first cap job by far. I have read every thread that I could find before posting this. B+ is 108v, flyback not turned up too much, Tried H Hold pot and it does "lock in" to this picture. Checked all connections and leads. I tried to "move" all of these hoping to find something loose. Where do I look next? Thanks in advance for all help.

Did you adjust all of the H pots, even the one buried in the center of the chassis? That's usually the culprit when you get a picture like that on a Sanyo after a capkit.

 

[timberterror]

Did you adjust all of the H pots, even the one buried in the center of the chassis? That's usually the culprit when you get a picture like that on a Sanyo after a capkit.

I've seen this a few times before. I had a Nintendo cab with a jamma setup in it, when I capped it and tested it with a DKJr it looked like the picture. I adjusted the hold in the center of ther chassis and it was fine. When the monitor was reinstalled in the Jamma setup I had to readjust it again. - Barry

 

[rzgrip]

Where did you get your capkit? Some kits do not include the two non-polar electrolytics.

The upper right corner of the main board is very delicate and can develop cracks in the foil. This is the section of the board by the video signal input cable connector.

I bought the "deluxe" kit with the audio kit from Bob Roberts. It does come with the two NP caps. In all, 35 caps and 2 transistors. And yes, I did remember the H hold in the middle of the chassis. Going out to inspect it now.

 

[rzgrip]

Sorry. I exaggerated, there are only 31 caps including the sound board. I spent the last hour looking through a magnifying glass. Eyes burn like the dickens. All caps are facing the correct way and are of the proper values. Almost all solder joints surprisingly look very good, even under the magnifier! I touched up a few. However I noticed that cap C411 which is a NP type has continuity on its solder pads when in circuit. I removed it and checked it out of circuit and it was of the proper value. There is a jumper wire nearby going from C161 -side to TR401. Did I hook this up to the wrong side of the cap? The jumper is also on my other Sanyo. If this is correct then I will try it out again even though in my mind I really did not change anything.

 

[rzgrip]

Newest Findings!

OK, I reflowed all solder joints, verified cap position and direction. The picture is the same when "locked" in. However, while turning pots I am able to come up with these screen images. Does this give anyone a clue on what is going on? By the way, I am getting pretty good at removing and installing the chassis! Oh, I am testing it on a DK since its easier to get to. DK board is perfect, definitely the monitor.

 

[Dokert]

Looks like the sync is fine now, and you need to adjust the V Hold.

 

[rzgrip]

If I turn the vertical hold in either direction it just makes the picture scroll in one direction or the other. Could I have a bad cap that would do this even though they are new? Just reaching for clues.

 

[wrongdon]

Hey ron , found this out there . If it doesn't help you maybe it will help somebody out someday lol.
C407 10uf 160VDC Causes vertical foldover. The top part of the
screen is squished.

C302 1uf 50VDC Jail bars
C467 1uf 160VDC Jail bars
C468 330uf 25VDC Jail bars
C469 220uf 25VDC Jail bars
C471 10uf 160VDC Jail bars
C472 100uf 160VDC Jail bars

C459 100uf 16VDC. Horizontal tearing. Looks as if you should be able to
adjust it out with the horizontal hold control but you can't. May cause
multiple images.

C303 10uf 50VDC Brightness too low.