sanyo monitor problem (popeye cocktail)

kjallard

New member
Joined
Jan 18, 2011
Messages
15
Reaction score
0
Location
Weare, New Hampshire
I'm looking for some help with my Popeye cocktail machine. the top of the screen(approx an inch or so) is not showing.(Olive throwing hearts is almost not showing) when the second player is up, the bottom of the screen is missing but you can see the scores and Olive throwing hearts. I have adjusted the h-cent,v-hold and v-size on the monitor but it didn't fix anything. The screen also shakes abit,kinda shinking and expanding.Any ideas on what might be wrong? I,m new to the hobby but a quick learn and willing to learn the right way to diagnos and fix these machines.I have attached pic's of the screen to show whats happening. The monitor I believe is a sanyo appears to be original dated 1982. The model number is- 18-Z2AB - Any help will be greatly appreciated,Thanks---Kevin
 

Attachments

  • popeye top screen missing,player one.jpg
    popeye top screen missing,player one.jpg
    97.8 KB · Views: 42
  • popeye,bottom screen missing,player 2.jpg
    popeye,bottom screen missing,player 2.jpg
    97.2 KB · Views: 31
Last edited:
yes, you need the sanyo 20ez cap kit for the 18z2ab.
get the deluxe version.


that was my first cap kit.

Thanks guys I'll give it a try---Is cap failure a common issue with monitors? I have a cinematronics game with funky lines and multiple little dots on about 3" on top of the screen--still see the picture ok but the dots are noticable-should I cap kit this as well?
 
Last edited:
Cap kits cant hurt. One thing I've learned, with the Nintendo Monitor youre capping, you might want to buy a B+ Adj pot too. When you install new caps, it raises the voltages and the B+ will commonly need adjusting too. On many of the monitors ive done, this Adj pot was brittle and snapped right off. Bob Roberts has these pots for 1$ each, so they are worth it.
 
Cap kits cant hurt. One thing I've learned, with the Nintendo Monitor youre capping, you might want to buy a B+ Adj pot too. When you install new caps, it raises the voltages and the B+ will commonly need adjusting too. On many of the monitors ive done, this Adj pot was brittle and snapped right off. Bob Roberts has these pots for 1$ each, so they are worth it.

Thanks for the tip--I'll get the parts,install them and let you know--Kevin
 
cap kit worked great,Thanksfor your help---more questions?--what is the procedure to adjust the b+ pot? is the voltage supposed to be 108v and where do you attach your dvom leads to measure the voltage?
 
there will be a test pin called "BJ" ... that's easy to remember, lol. then use the actual monitor frame for your ground.

you may have to go through and readjust your color biases and the brightnesses (there's 3 brightness adjustments, a fine (the brightness pot), a mid (some other pot that doesn't really matter really) and a coarse (the screen pot on the flyback)). turn your brightness up to where you'll have a little faint greyish/brownish pixely tinge to the black background with the brightness pot up at like 3/4, and your flyback screen adjusted to this point, and then start turning the brightness down until the black is .... pure black. make sure your white balance is all good for best results.. you don't want any tints or retrace lines or anything.

I've noticed some people popping up lately saying they're missing primary colors, sometimes post-cap kit. not sure why, maybe it's the voltage increase from the new caps that makes whatever has cold solder joints not work anymore, but I actually go through and reflow the transistors and resistors on the neckboards when I do EZ's now.

it sounds like a lot of work, but realistically will probably take you all of 5 minutes to do, no joke, and the results are generally amazing.
 
Thanks for the advise--that pin sure is in a nasty spot to get at, you might think the manufacturer would have put that right near the adj pot,I'll adjust the b+ and see what happens,thanks again---Kevin
 
use alligator clips, both for the test pin and the metal frame.

eliminates the guess work. I generally operate the monitor on a floor (with a mirror in front) to do all the necessary adjustments and such... then plug your meter probes on the other side of the clips, bing, done.
 
that did it, voltage was 114v before adjustment, I did use jumpers to get at the test pin---set it to 108v +/-set all other adjustments works nice. The V hold seems allfull touchy but working---The colors and clarity in the picture definitly improved. Thanks to everyone for your help------------NOW THE BIG QUESTION----KEEP IT OR SELL IT AND FIND A NEW PROJECT?---decisions,decisions-----Kevin
 
probably sell it. don't amass a collection of shit you don't need like I have. :p

I have too many projects, wow. at least most of them run. they don't really fit the scheme of my family's arcade though, which is predominantly redemption games (see: stuff that actually makes money). I was happy to find like 10 dollars in tokens in my MK2. lol
 
LOL----I found $22.00 in the coin box once I removed the lock( no key of course) in this popeye--replaced lock $3.64---still win Ha.
I'm guessing $350.00 for the cocktail would be fair???will have to research---Kevin
 
Last edited:
Back
Top Bottom