Sanyo EZV worked, now won't power on :)

mecha

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I don't know the first place to start with these Sanyos. I had a thread a couple weeks ago about the sound amp freaking out on my Popeye and I just replaced the monitor entirely with another I'd bought last year.

the replacement just happened to quit yesterday. my particular questions were regarding the voltages and the ripple in the picture. geometrically the monitor was excellent, none of the vertical squish or foldover. I observed the brightness never looked quite up to snuff compared to the old monitor. if I went any higher with the Screen, I'd get retrace lines. tube surprisingly has little burn, came out of a Vs. Duck Hunt I guess.

I've heard of some other brightness adjustment on the chassis itself, not entirely sure how you'd access that, everything's housed or blocked on these.

but what am I looking at here, bad tube, bad flyback? HV shutdown? if it were a newer Wells, I'd have an idea, but this... ho ho ho. :)

show me love this time, don't ignore me.
 
It's probably in HV shutdown. They're a bit touchy on that. Check your B+ - you want to get it to 108v.

Also check the brightness pot on the chassis. If it's up too high it can cause it to go into shutdown as well.

If you are getting ripple in the picture, then either your B+ was too low, or the main filter cap is bad (or both). The filter cap is the large one (I forget the value, 470uf @200v perhaps?).

-Ian
 
does it have a test pin for the B+?

there was like a little blue rocker lever thing in the middle of the chassis, is that the one that's like the Test switch or whatever?

I need to get cap kits for my Sharps in the PC-10 and the original Popeye monitor, did Bob ever start including the filter cap or is that still something you have to get separate?
 
does it have a test pin for the B+?
Test point is on the main chassis board, fairly near the B+ adjustment, and is labelled BJ

there was like a little blue rocker lever thing in the middle of the chassis, is that the one that's like the Test switch or whatever?
Yeah, IIRC, that collapses the scan to a single line (makes initial convergence easier). Don't mess with that :)

I need to get cap kits for my Sharps in the PC-10 and the original Popeye monitor, did Bob ever start including the filter cap or is that still something you have to get separate?

I know of no cap kit that includes a filter cap for any monitor. The main filter caps cost several dollars apiece, and haven't traditionally been as failure-prone as all the smaller caps. But, I've seen a couple of Sanyos with bad ones, so I suppose that maybe at this point they're starting to become unreliable.

-Ian
 
right on. I probably won't get around to it today, but if I do I'll post what the B+ came up as.

do you know what would cause the sound amp from the Popeye monitor to make arcs at the volume pot and make loud screeching sounds? is that symptomatic of that needing caps as well?

I really need like a bunch of deluxe kits for these, and need to just do them all.

if I wanted to take one off, do you unscrew the metal cover around the neckboard off, and squeeze the pushins to take the deflection board off?
 
Also, quick word of warning, (although I'm sure you already know this), but those Sanyo monitors are 100v. Not 120v. If you have a test bench setup, don't plug it into your regular isolation transformer - you need to use a Nintendo transformer with 100v outputs. And, of course, don't plug it directly into the wall...

-Ian
 
yeah, I know about that one. generally if it's like hardcore Japanese hardware I usually assume it's got a stepdown to 100V. all the Sega projection screens I've dealt with had em too. I have just barely enough wire to run the monitor outside of the cab, lol

does either outlet inside the cab work for either the marquee or monitor?
 
do you know what would cause the sound amp from the Popeye monitor to make arcs at the volume pot and make loud screeching sounds? is that symptomatic of that needing caps as well?
Arcs and screeching... never seen that one before. Usually when they need caps the sound is just all distorted and crummy (or not there). But arcing could be something else - could also just be a cold solder joint coming loose, or something touching the frame of the monitor that shouldn't.

if I wanted to take one off, do you unscrew the metal cover around the neckboard off, and squeeze the pushins to take the deflection board off?

Yes. Take the metal guard off, and pop the neckboard off the tube as usual. Also, unscrew the screws holding the adjustment board on, that needs to come off as well. Careful unthreading the wires from the clips. There are some plugs that connect to the sound board. Whatever you do, *DON'T* mix them up. Two of them are physically interchangable. I forget what they're labelled, but they are marked on the plug and on the board. They're larger white ones. Double check to ensure that they are marked, and that you put them back in the right place. Mixing them up causes smoke and bad smells.

-Ian
 
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I have just barely enough wire to run the monitor outside of the cab, lol

does either outlet inside the cab work for either the marquee or monitor?

Yeah, they're both the same. They are both powered by the isolation transformer. You can safely use a normal extension cord to extend the monitor's power cable to your bench if you need to. Just so long as you always power the monitor from the isolation transformer in/from a Nintendo cabinet, you'll be good.

-Ian
 
Arcs and screeching... never seen that one before. Usually when they need caps the sound is just all distorted and crummy (or not there). But arcing could be something else - could also just be a cold solder joint coming loose, or something touching the frame of the monitor that shouldn't.

Yes. Take the metal guard off, and pop the neckboard off the tube as usual. Also, unscrew the screws holding the adjustment board on, that needs to come off as well. Careful unthreading the wires from the clips. There are some plugs that connect to the sound board. Whatever you do, *DON'T* mix them up. Two of them are physically interchangable. I forget what they're labelled, but they are marked on the plug and on the board. They're larger white ones. Double check to ensure that they are marked, and that you put them back in the right place. Mixing them up causes smoke and bad smells.

-Ian

they're marked JB and JC, fortunately the markings didn't wear off my connectors, cause I realized that after the fact myself, total "oh shit.... oh wait, I'm ok" moment.

I didn't notice anything particularly abnormal on the "bad" amp, solder joints didn't look bad, but then again it was just a glance, not an in-depth inspection.

I wound up wiping the volume pot extensively before putting the old monitor (with swapped amp/transformer) back in. nothing was wrong with the sound previous to the screeching shit. it just happened on a whim. it either had NO sound or was this loud screeching, and when I turned the knob it started to arc. (when I was trying to figure out the problem)

that's when I got the Duck Hunt monitor off the shelf.
 
Also, quick word of warning, (although I'm sure you already know this), but those Sanyo monitors are 100v. Not 120v. If you have a test bench setup, don't plug it into your regular isolation transformer - you need to use a Nintendo transformer with 100v outputs. And, of course, don't plug it directly into the wall...

-Ian

So what do you do after you do plug it directly in the wall. I did it and now it's dead. Replaced the 4 Amp fuse, still nothing.
 
So what do you do after you do plug it directly in the wall. I did it and now it's dead. Replaced the 4 Amp fuse, still nothing.

Best bet is to not plug it into the wall... :D

First thing I would do is replace the rectifier diodes. IIRC, they're just 3A diodes - you can get them at Rat Shack. Did the fuse blow again after you replaced it?

-Ian
 
Yeah, I thought the Iso was inline or something because it had a standard plug. Ohhh it was so tempting. The fuse did not blow again after replacing.

I'll try replacing the 3A diodes.

I was told that I most likely blew some of the rectifying diodes in the power section, and maybe the voltage regulator. Also to check the big resistor...R609....20W 180ohms.

Thanks!
 
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