Sanyo EZV new caps but no RED

try tapping on the side of your cab while it's on. does the monitor go batshit?

for whatever reason, the monitors in my PlayChoice-10 worked perfectly fine until after I capped them. one monitor was just green, and the second monitor was actually missing green (so it looked purple).

the all green one I took back out and reflowed all the major components on the neckboard... the color pots, transistors and resistors in particular.

the purple one I did the same thing to the neckboard, but it was actually in the inverter board. I reflowed all the headers and pots on the inverter board to fix that one.

not entirely sure how it functions with cold solder perfectly fine before a cap kit, but whatever.

you also, unfortunately, will probably need to dial all your drive pots and bias pots back to center and re white balance, as well as readjusting the 3 brightnesses (I actually got away with just the Brightness pot and Screen pot on the flyback -- never mucked with the "medium brightness" pot)

another point of interest could be the video signal plug itself, if you have one like that. mine was like a molex setup that then plugs into the monitor.

hope this helps, good luck!
 
First thing I'd check is the color adjustment pots on the neck board. Over the years people tend to adjust them to make up for the color changes which I assume is failing caps.

After the first couple cap kits I did I now just center all the controls before i fire it up and more often then not get the right color mix. There is a chance the red is turned way down and the others are cranked. - Barry
 
bypass the color inversion board. probably don't need it and you eliminate some connections..

did you reflow the connector on the monitor board for the video cable?

Maybe you bent a pin on tube?

Short the the red transistor to the frame for a second to see if it fires full on red..
 
bypass the color inversion board. probably don't need it and you eliminate some connections..

did you reflow the connector on the monitor board for the video cable?

Maybe you bent a pin on tube?

Short the the red transistor to the frame for a second to see if it fires full on red..

this art is achieved by alligator clipping the heatsink to a ground (in this case, the frame)

something I have yet to try myself..
 
not entirely sure how it functions with cold solder perfectly fine before a cap kit, but whatever.

That's an easy one. Before, in a resting state, the leg of the part was resting enough against the solder to make a good enough connection to work. Even better once it warmed up. Once you moved it, bumped it, etc, then the connection isn't so good. Just enough so it's not working properly. Doesn't take much if it's already broken.
 
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