Sanyo EZV B + low

Long Hair

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I did a cap kit on VS Dr. Mario and after plugging the monitor back in and giving it power, I get nothing. The monitor does not charge up (no Static noise), no neck glow. So I search on this forum and checked the B+ voltage. I'm only getting 8.40volts DC, I testing the volts @ TP/BJ, on the audio board, and at the 300ma fuse.The left side of the fuse reads 140volts, but the right side reads 8volts(maybe bad fuse?),but I don't think I would get a reading. IF anyone has and idea I'm all ears. Like I said I have searched the forum and seen problems with low voltage around 80volts, but not as low as 8volts. When I did the cap kit it had a few caps listed at different locations that were not on the board. I had to sub caps with higher voltage ratings, but I don't think that would be a problem. The uf ratings were the same.
 
Pull and test the fuse for continuity. If the fuse tests good, suspect the fuse clips. Put the fuse back in and test the fuse clips for continuity across the bottom of the chassis.
Dok
 
Pull and test the fuse for continuity. If the fuse tests good, suspect the fuse clips. Put the fuse back in and test the fuse clips for continuity across the bottom of the chassis.
Dok

Pulled the fuse and it's no good. So I'm on may way to rat shack for some fuses and a pot for the B+. Following your guide I tested the Hot, and it reads good. IF I keep popping fuses I think I need to check the cap's for a third time. There was one cap I had to reuse think it was 4.7uf 25v (Bipolar), didn't look so good. Maybe rat shack has that as well.
 
Put a new fuse in, checked for continuity on chassis to fuse holder(both sides) no continuity. Powered it up and the fuse blew. Also rechecked the hot with the fuse in holder and it's ok. So I guess it's time to pull the monitor back out and triple check my cap job. Unless someone else has a better plan.
 
Think I made a bubu. Cap @ 472 back words.
 

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That fix the fuse popping.I broke the B+ pot, but I gave it a temp fix for now. The pot needed to replace this one, I guess needs to be rated for 200volts? One more thing, now I'm having a problem with the vertical hold. Had to play with the v. hold and v. size to get it fixed. But after I shut it down and fire it back up it loses the v.hold.
 

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i would almost bet the bipolar cap is part of your scrolling problem.

and what is that pot for your B+ it looks like you hot glued it.:eek:
a 5 or 10ohm pot is fine. i use 10ohm pots and dont have a problem.

Peace
Buffett
 
i would almost bet the bipolar cap is part of your scrolling problem.

and what is that pot for your B+ it looks like you hot glued it.:eek:
a 5 or 10ohm pot is fine. i use 10ohm pots and dont have a problem.

Peace
Buffett

pot is for B+,no glue just a plastic outlet cover and a wire tie to keep pressure on the pot. I have a 10ohm pot but it's only rated for 50volts, will that work?
 
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Anyone know if a 50volt pot will work for the B+? I would guess the volt rating needs to be at least 200volts.
 
Anyone know if a 50volt pot will work for the B+? I would guess the volt rating needs to be at least 200volts.

When I replaced the B+ pots on my 20ezs, I went with a 5K Ohm pot from Bob Roberts. I did not even consider voltage, as it was correct resistance that I was worried about.

20EZ Replacement B+ Pot $1.00

This should work also from twisty wrist arcade

If you need a LA5112 voltage regulator, the one I bought from Riptor at Twisty Wrist works and the one I got from Bob Roberts somewhat works but has flag wave issues and not adjustable.
 
Update

The bipolar cap @162 fixed the Vertical hold problem. And After looking a the Schematic, the Radio shack 10k pot works fine. It was a mini but I made it work now my B+ is running @ 108volts DC. Thanks to all for the help.
 
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