Sanyo ez shutdown ---FIXED

cysnake

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Sanyo ez monitor in shutdown. Did a capkit, replaced the flyback, new filter caps and b+ pot. Monitor was working when i did the capkit and flyback. Picture looked great afterwards, but would only last a couple minutes before going into shutdown again. Looked for broken traces, centered all pots, and was getting 108v on b+. Now the monitor goes into shutdown immediatly when turned on. Ive turned the b+ pot all the way down along with brightness, and still immediate shutdown. All fuses are good. Where to go from here?
 
Mine did similar. Works until warmed up and then shutdown.
Was a tiny crack in the trace. You can barely see it up close . But multi meter would say it's ok as soon as it was out of the cabinet. IMG_9375.jpeg
 
I went through everything yesterday and did find a trace break, fixed the break, but still no change. I put the original flyback back in as well, and it didnt help either. It still goes straight to shutdown, so my guess is whatever component was initially starting to fail after the capkit and flyback has now completely failed
 
Take the HOT out of circuit and attach a light bulb to the B+ test point and ground and see if you can get B+ to regulate at all. That will tell you if it's a power issue or an HV issue.
 
TY. B+ is perfect and it will stay on forever and hold steady but not be synced up.

As soon as I get it to sync using the h hold pot, it shuts off again going into HV shutdown.
 
Made some progress, sort of. FIrst off Id like to say the initial problem i believe started with the new flyback. With the new flyback installed, i could not adjust B+ any higher than 106. As soon as i did it would go into shutdown, it didnt matter if the pots were centered or at their lowest setting. In messing around with the chassis with the new flyback installed, I believe it slowly killed other components on the board. With b+ at 106 I did have a great picture on screen, but it would only last about 5 minutes before going into shutdown again. The more i played with the pots and settings, the shorter that time became before shutdown. It finally came down to where no matter what i did the monitor would immediately go into shutdown on power up. I ended up replacing everything, the HOT, Q901 IC601, the 3 resistors by the flyback, filter cap, B+ pot, horizontal pot, and i forget what else. After replacing all of that i got the monitor to stop going into shutdown on power up but i had the image you see below. I could see the game image, its a mario bros. (I do want to add that i swapped out the original and new flyback atleast 6 times during all the testing). Nothing i did would have any change to this image, the brightness wouldnt adjust very much no matter which pot i tried to adjust, including the flyback. This image was first when i had the original flyback installed. With the original flyback i was able to get a dead on 108 B+ and it remained stable and did not go into shutdown. Thinking it couldve been the flyback, i once again swapped to the new flyback. This produced the same results as the original, but I still couldnt adjust B+ to over 106 without shutdown again. So again i put the original back in. Now i am left with no picture at all on the screen, even with flyback brightness turned all the way the screen is black. I seem to have lost neckglow somewhere but i have high voltage to the anode. However the monitor is not in shutdown and i have a stable 108 B+. I have another working chassis that i have been comparing to the one, and all of the components seem fine. The only thing i cant test is IC601. Ive been over the traces on the bottom several times and cant seem to find any breaks or bridges, so my last thought is maybe the new flyback fried IC601? Im going to pull it from my working chassis tonight and see what happens. Any other suggestions are VERY welcome at this point!
 

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Would it be possible that i blew one of the new caps? if so which would be related to this issue?
 
Shutdown
I have the same symptoms. New FB and I can't get b+ to 108 without shutdown. I can get it to stay if the H Hold is off. As soon as I get it to lock on, Shutdown. However if I adjust b+ to under 100 the H Hold works and it locks good
The only solution so far is to put a OE FB in or adjust b+ to under 100 with new FB. It looks good at under 100 and its stable.

Im assuming it's the FB bc I have changed parts including the IC, HOT, VR and pot.
 
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definitely the flyback. I wouldve let mine go with the b+ around 100v, but i wasnt sure of any "long term effects" with any other parts if it would eventually kill them.
 
Fixed it. My eyes aint what they used to be. Found 2 bad traces i missed. I swear i tested everything atleast three times, lol! But i stand by the replacement flybacks not being able to handle 108v B+. Whether or not running the chassis at around 100v B+ would kill other components with a replacement flyback is yet to be determined. Unfortunately i am not in the position to test that at this time......
 
Mine did similar. Works until warmed up and then shutdown.
Was a tiny crack in the trace. You can barely see it up close . But multi meter would say it's ok as soon as it was out of the cabinet. View attachment 809869
Ironicaly enough, one of my bad traces was at this cap, i believe thats what caused my white smeared screen
 
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