Sanyo Ez questions

cwales

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I know this is talked about a lot on here, I have a Sanyo EZ that I capped.

There is fold over on the right side, the pots on the board do not fix it. Well, you can get rid of the fold over but the right side is still squished. It's as if DK Jr gets really small if you go to 0the right two vines on the first board. I swapped the board into DK, it looks great. Power is 108 on the monitor...

Cap 407 is good, I even changed it again just in case since I had an extra, it's exactly the same with both in.

I also noticed that the brightness isn't quite the same on left and right sides on the screen, it's brighter on the right side. Like a line separating the brightness. I will post pictures tomorrow, my camera is at home.
 
Here are some pictures.. You will see on the right side of the screen, it's faded at a line. And when anything gets all the way to the right, it gets small and squished.

I didn't see any bad solder points, but I will take it apart and look again.

It can't be the flyback could it?
 

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Here are some pictures.. You will see on the right side of the screen, it's faded at a line. And when anything gets all the way to the right, it gets small and squished.

I didn't see any bad solder points, but I will take it apart and look again.

It can't be the flyback could it?

adjust the V. Size pot on the chassis to make the picture smaller, then adjust the V. Position pot on the boardset to center the picture.
 
Here are some pictures.. You will see on the right side of the screen, it's faded at a line. And when anything gets all the way to the right, it gets small and squished.

I didn't see any bad solder points, but I will take it apart and look again.

It can't be the flyback could it?

Casey,

That is exactly what the chassis was doing for me. I thought for sure a cap kit would fix it as it fixed my other sanyo's that had that same issue. Dokert knows more than both of us, so hopefully his suggestion will get it taken care of.

Robert
 
If you do that it gets really narrow. I can get a clear picture that way, but what about the line in the center.. how the color is really off on one side. That remains. And still, even adjusted like that it's so narrow. It's just wrong.
 
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If you do that it gets really narrow. I can get a clear picture that way, but what about the line in the center.. how the color is really off on one side. That remains. And still, even adjusted like that it's so narrow. It's just wrong.

You may have gotten a bad cap in your cap kit. Recheck all of the caps for the correct values & correct locations and we will attack it from there.
 
Thanks much for the help. I don't think I can get to it until Monday morning, running a store and all it's too busy tonight and tomorrow. But I will get it pulled apart again Monday. Thanks again :)
 
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So I pulled it this morning, checked all the caps again, everything is fine. I re-soldered some of them but no change. I did add an inverter board off another chassis and the colors look a lot better, but everything else is the same. You can still see the difference in the left and right side of the screen and there's still a wicked curl if you make the picture any bigger.
 
I'm assuming from other posts in the thread that you bought this chassis from someone and it was exhibiting the same symptoms. If that's not the case, ignore the rest of my post.

Since you've done a cap it and it's still behaving the same way, I think it's safe to say it's a not a cap-related issue. May be obvious, but IMO you've been wasting your time checking your cap job any further. I'm sorry I don't have anything more concrete to add, just logic indicates that it's some other component causing you troubles.

EDIT: Do you have any 'hacks' on the solder side of the board? I received a sanyo 20ez that had a resistor soldered on the solder side and I removed it when I did the cap kit. Monitor would not adjust properly. Put it back, monitor adjusted fine.
 
Yes that is the case, I bought it "works but needs a cap kit". I'm sure it's not the caps. Nothing is hacked at all, it's really clean. I didn't modify anything on there besides the caps.
 
Yes that is the case, I bought it "works but needs a cap kit". I'm sure it's not the caps. Nothing is hacked at all, it's really clean. I didn't modify anything on there besides the caps.

That said, Dokert's advice to check for cold solder joints and solder bridges etc is still good. Since you've done that, I'm personally out of my depth. I hope modessit or Dokert or Ken Layton has things for you to check -- I dig threads like this becuase everybody learns.
 
Just repaired a G07 that had been recapped, new HOT, new Reg, new Fly, blah blah blah. It would not power up when I got it. Visual inspection only showed me that the horizontal width coil was broken. Turned out that the fly and several of the new caps had cold solder joints. I reflowed all of the solder for everything that was installed. I then got a 3" picture on the screen. Took another visual inspection, and saw what appeared to be some scratches on the solder side of the chassis. I decided to meter around these scratches and found them to actually be cracks. Upon solder across the cracks, the picture came up beautifully.

So in summary, don't be afraid to reflow the solder on what you have already done and look very closely at the solder side of the chassis for any possible cracks.
 
I just can't find anything wrong with it and don't have the time or patience.

It's all about mentality. There IS something wrong with it, no doubt about it, it is just a matter of finding it. If I were attacking this, I would do it at my leisure even if it took a year; I would go over the entire thing, get out the schematics, start checking every component in the section that I believe the problem is in, until I find the problem.

I did this with my space invaders monitor. It took about 6 weeks of sitting down every once in a while and checking components. I learned a hell of a lot, and now I have a working monitor...
 
Something new with this thing. It's started to twitch and get really narrow and then going beck to "normal". I mean normal for this monitor, not normal as in good picture. Does that provide any clue?
 
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