Sanyo EZ monitor

Sampson

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Well, I just started looking at the Nintendo Vs. Dual upright I bought (goonies and Duck Hunt), and one the Duck Hunt monitor doesn't work.

When I switch the connections on back between monitors, Duck Hunt comes on in the other side, still the other monitor blank, no noise at all.

Anyone know how I decide if it is worth getting fixed? Could it just be a cap kit? Fuse?

Thanks,
-Steve
 
Could be. Could be a bad HOT, VR, flyback, etc. Check to make sure it's getting the 100v first by swapping the power inputs...
 
Well, I just started looking at the Nintendo Vs. Dual upright I bought (goonies and Duck Hunt), and one the Duck Hunt monitor doesn't work.

When I switch the connections on back between monitors, Duck Hunt comes on in the other side, still the other monitor blank, no noise at all.

Anyone know how I decide if it is worth getting fixed? Could it just be a cap kit? Fuse?

Thanks,
-Steve



No noise as in sounds? Check your monitor's main fuse (125V 4A) and also do as Mod has suggested and check for voltage (100V) check to see if it's actually plugged in first though.
 
As the sound board is powered through the monitor, if the monitor is dead for whatever reason, so is the sound board...
 
OK, the fuse is intact. The receptacle is showing 110 volts.

I was wrong about the sound, when the unit is powered up, there is a hum that comes from the pictureless monitor, and the speakers hum as well.

Any other ideas?

"Could be a bad HOT, VR, flyback, etc."

Could you say that in laymans terms modessit?
 
HOT = Horizontal Ouput Transistor. This is what controls your horizontal deflection. If it goes out, you usually get no picture.

VR = Voltage Regulator. This takes the 100vac coming in and (along with the rectifying diodes) converts in into the DC voltage the chassis needs to operated. You should be reading 100v, not 110. Check the outlet where the other monitor is plugged in. If they are both 100, then you're probably fine. If one is 100v and the other is 110, then the one plugged into 110 probably died from overvoltage, and the VR and diodes are your best best.

Flyback - This is the high voltage transformer on the front right of your chassis, usually with a cage around it. If this goes bad, then you won't get a picture, although the fuse usually blows, too. Look for cracks in the casing.

Caps - All the electrolytic capacitors on the chassis may need to be replaced. Look for any that appear to have bulging tops. If a cap goes bad, it can cause the monitor to shut down.

Solder - Cold solder joints - places where heat or something has caused the part leg to separate from the solder pad - can cause interruption of the current flowing through your chassis. I recently fixed a dead K7000 monitor chassis just by repairing all the cold solder joints.

B+ - This should probably be your next step (after physical inspection of course). The B+ voltage is your chassis' nominal operating voltage. There is a test point located about 3" back near the left center of the chassis. I think it s TP81 or TP61 or something like that (Dokert will undoubtedly chime in with the location and an advertisment for his handy tool for checking this awkward-to-reach test point ;)). With your meter set to DC200, stick your red lead on that test point and your black lead to the monitor frame. You should be reading 108vdc. If you get any other reading that is not close (within 10vdc), the number can tell us which area to concentrate on....
 
Hmmmm, the voltage on the famale receptacles for the monitors are 108.8 (right nonworking monitor) and 109.5 (left working monitor). The left side does work at this voltage, however.

All transformers I could see on the monitor boards looked intact. The capacitors look intact as well.

This could be more work than its worth, I might just part it out...
 
Hmmmm, the voltage on the famale receptacles for the monitors are 108.8 (right nonworking monitor) and 109.5 (left working monitor). The left side does work at this voltage, however.

All transformers I could see on the monitor boards looked intact. The capacitors look intact as well.

This could be more work than its worth, I might just part it out...

That outlet is an isolated outlet. It's powered by the stepdown (120V to 100V) isolation transformer. That is the voltage that it is supposed to be. Did you check the 300 mA fuse?
Also, do you have a dim orangeish glow in the neck when the power is applied? This is commonly referred to as "neck glow" and indicates whether or not the high voltage circuit is active.
 
Also you might want to check the B+ voltage as Mod has suggested, Follow his instructions and double check that your meter is indeed set to "DC" volts. Also, the test point is TP91 or BJ they are equivilant.
 
Thanks for the advice everyone. I will check the B+ voltage sometime soon, found a video tutorial, but need to get the sound on my computer working so I can watch it!
 
HOT = Horizontal Ouput Transistor. This is what controls your horizontal deflection. If it goes out, you usually get no picture.

VR = Voltage Regulator. This takes the 100vac coming in and (along with the rectifying diodes) converts in into the DC voltage the chassis needs to operated. You should be reading 100v, not 110. Check the outlet where the other monitor is plugged in. If they are both 100, then you're probably fine. If one is 100v and the other is 110, then the one plugged into 110 probably died from overvoltage, and the VR and diodes are your best best.

Flyback - This is the high voltage transformer on the front right of your chassis, usually with a cage around it. If this goes bad, then you won't get a picture, although the fuse usually blows, too. Look for cracks in the casing.

Caps - All the electrolytic capacitors on the chassis may need to be replaced. Look for any that appear to have bulging tops. If a cap goes bad, it can cause the monitor to shut down.

Solder - Cold solder joints - places where heat or something has caused the part leg to separate from the solder pad - can cause interruption of the current flowing through your chassis. I recently fixed a dead K7000 monitor chassis just by repairing all the cold solder joints.

B+ - This should probably be your next step (after physical inspection of course). The B+ voltage is your chassis' nominal operating voltage. There is a test point located about 3" back near the left center of the chassis. I think it s TP81 or TP61 or something like that (Dokert will undoubtedly chime in with the location and an advertisment for his handy tool for checking this awkward-to-reach test point ;)). With your meter set to DC200, stick your red lead on that test point and your black lead to the monitor frame. You should be reading 108vdc. If you get any other reading that is not close (within 10vdc), the number can tell us which area to concentrate on....

Why isn't this a sticky ?!
 
Why isn't this a sticky ?!

1) Because it could be written better. I'll bet Ken Layton already has something typed up.

2) Because most of it is specific to this particular monitor chassis.

3) Because nothing technical ever gets stickied...
 
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