HOT = Horizontal Ouput Transistor. This is what controls your horizontal deflection. If it goes out, you usually get no picture.
VR = Voltage Regulator. This takes the 100vac coming in and (along with the rectifying diodes) converts in into the DC voltage the chassis needs to operated. You should be reading 100v, not 110. Check the outlet where the other monitor is plugged in. If they are both 100, then you're probably fine. If one is 100v and the other is 110, then the one plugged into 110 probably died from overvoltage, and the VR and diodes are your best best.
Flyback - This is the high voltage transformer on the front right of your chassis, usually with a cage around it. If this goes bad, then you won't get a picture, although the fuse usually blows, too. Look for cracks in the casing.
Caps - All the electrolytic capacitors on the chassis may need to be replaced. Look for any that appear to have bulging tops. If a cap goes bad, it can cause the monitor to shut down.
Solder - Cold solder joints - places where heat or something has caused the part leg to separate from the solder pad - can cause interruption of the current flowing through your chassis. I recently fixed a dead K7000 monitor chassis just by repairing all the cold solder joints.
B+ - This should probably be your next step (after physical inspection of course). The B+ voltage is your chassis' nominal operating voltage. There is a test point located about 3" back near the left center of the chassis. I think it s TP81 or TP61 or something like that (Dokert will undoubtedly chime in with the location and an advertisment for his handy tool for checking this awkward-to-reach test point

). With your meter set to DC200, stick your red lead on that test point and your black lead to the monitor frame. You should be reading 108vdc. If you get any other reading that is not close (within 10vdc), the number can tell us which area to concentrate on....