Sanyo EZ/ Mario Bros/ Recapped/ Shimmy Shake

Phetishboy

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Now let me begin by saying that the graphics and text were shaking back and forth on the monitor before capping, so the issue was pre-existing. This was not a sync issue, but a shimmy-shake. Everything would vibrate back and forth like the monitor was having a seizure. I capped this for my brother with caps I purchased wholesale from a cap list. Since I ordered this way, the caps were sealed individually, and not in 'kit' form. Well the wholesaler f'ed up on one cap value. They sent me 2 10uf160V's when I needed 100uf160V's. So those 2 larger caps have not yet been replaced. After capping, the shaking could not be calmed with the v-hold, h-center or the black pot that sticks up in the back of the chassis (what does that one do?). I have not yet messed with the H-hold pot buried in the chassis as of yet. Any ideas on what is causing the violent shaking? Is it the 2 larger caps? Cold solder joints? Bad hold pot?
 
Now let me begin by saying that the graphics and text were shaking back and forth on the monitor before capping, so the issue was pre-existing. This was not a sync issue, but a shimmy-shake. Everything would vibrate back and forth like the monitor was having a seizure. I capped this for my brother with caps I purchased wholesale from a cap list. Since I ordered this way, the caps were sealed individually, and not in 'kit' form. Well the wholesaler f'ed up on one cap value. They sent me 2 10uf160V's when I needed 100uf160V's. So those 2 larger caps have not yet been replaced. After capping, the shaking could not be calmed with the v-hold, h-center or the black pot that sticks up in the back of the chassis (what does that one do?). I have not yet messed with the H-hold pot buried in the chassis as of yet. Any ideas on what is causing the violent shaking? Is it the 2 larger caps? Cold solder joints? Bad hold pot?

Why not replace the wrong value caps first then figure out if it is something else?

Did you check the B+? Why not try that h-hold pot on the chassis?

I had a 20EZ with horrible sync issues and it was a few diodes on the chassis that were bad. Did you check the 20EZ trouble shooting guide?
 
Did you replace the filter cap? A bad filter cap or low B+ will cause the shakes.

Did not have my meter with to check the B+. Where do I put the leads to test that again? Filter cap you say? I don't think I changed that either.
 
Here's that guide:

Troubleshooting guide:
http://home.comcast.net/~mtpacifico/...ng Guide.pdf
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johnspage.jpg
 
one thing that helped the 20ez in my DK was the h/v adjustment pots on the monitor. if you can push on the dials or turn them a little and the shaking stops, you could try replacing them. that made it a bit better on mine.
 
Black to the frame. Red to BJ . Set meter to 200 VDC.

Also, that test point is difficult to reach with a meter probe. You can use that big resistors' leg instead....the one in front of the test point.

Edward
 
There is an adjustment pot near BJ. You need some TV adjustment tools to adjust it.

Not to hijack here, but does anybody have the link where I can buy a plastic allen tool to tweak the Horizontal width of these monitors? I know I've seen a link where somebody was selling some kits.

Thanks
 
one thing that helped the 20ez in my DK was the h/v adjustment pots on the monitor. if you can push on the dials or turn them a little and the shaking stops, you could try replacing them. that made it a bit better on mine.

I was going to suggest that also. Sometimes those pots are finicky, and rotating them hard left and right a few times will clear up the shakes, at least until you can replace them. Also, some of those Nintendo boards (not sure which ones) have 2 monitor adjustment pots on them. I would do the same thing, do a hard right and left turn several times and see if the shakes clears up.
 
Also, that test point is difficult to reach with a meter probe. You can use that big resistors' leg instead....the one in front of the test point.

Edward

one thing i've done, which is a little goofy, is duct tape the positive lead of my DMM to my pointer finger and use that for the extra reach to get to the test point.
 
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