Sanyo blurred image, not focus.

sk8ersublime

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Hey guys I just capped another Sanyo and of course it's giving me a problem. Looks like a bad cap? I'm not too sure as I've never seen this before. I've played with all the adjustments and the pic below is the best I can get it. My board set is tested good on the monitor in my DK cab.

B+ is solid 108vdc

Ideas?

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1360462865.066496.jpg

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1360462875.329030.jpg

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1360462886.812436.jpg
 
check all your work.

make sure there is no solder bridge anywhere and that all the caps are in the rite place and all polarized correctly.

is that the new tube you got or is that another tube you had.
i would try it on another tube if you can to see if it is the same results.


i have never seen that happen before:confused:

Peace
Buffett
 
wow, thats a new one.. havent seen that either.maybe a purity adjustment on the yolk?
 
Is that tube sitting on top of a magnetic field? That is the only way I can imagine that the image would be distorted like that.

Also maybe something going on with the video cable.
 
@ buffett - This is the tube from yesterday.

@Tighe - The tube was just sitting on my table, I backed up my DK to the table and used the same video cable that connects to the Sanyo in my DK. This is just an extra monitor im working on.

I will go over my work there was one pad that lifted on 471 i believe, I will double check, but I repaired the trace before firing it up.

I will try another tube too, before the cap kit on a different tube it looked like this and B+ wouldnt adjust above 89vdc. ill upload the pic from my phone.
 
Looks like it isn't the monitor, as that looks good compared to the dk image.

I just need to verify the tube. If the tube is good, then i screwed something up during the Cap kit. I havent had a chance to look at it yet today. I played hockey this morning and im exhausted now. Everything hurts.
 
Tube tests good with another chassis. Slight convergence issue, but clear pic.

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1360537569.893631.jpg

I checked the caps positions and values and compared them to the working chassis.

The only ones that vary are:

162 - 4.7uf 25v BP
469 - 220uf 35v
458 - 47uf 50v
202 - 220uf 35v
161 - 220uf 35v
479 - 4.7 25v BP

Voltage shouldn't matter as long as its higher and NP and BP caps are the same correct? My NP caps on the working chassis are 50v. I think this is a cap issue, or a trace issue. I checked all the work and nothing is bridged, however my iron may have been a little too hot as I see some dark spots on the pads. As long as there is continuity I should be good though...I know not always the case, but that's the start.

Any ideas what caps to look at on this chassis?
 
Did you try the chassis on another tube?

Edit:
Yes, the voltage just needs to be the same or higher.

Bi-polar and non-polar are the same.
 
Here is a video of whats going on.

I tested my continuity and checked my work for any bridges again and its no different.

I might just completely recap the thing. i think there is a bad cap somewhere in the Horizontal section. Anyone have a list of these? the Schematic on jrok site looks like its the 450-460 Caps.

Here is the video

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mJnfzxsdkx4&list=UULl3qSbC98janTo6O1o_AhA&index=1
 
Did you try the chassis on another tube?

Edit:
Yes, the voltage just needs to be the same or higher.

Bi-polar and non-polar are the same.

Cool, thanks.

I didnt try the "bad" chassis on another tube. But I tested a good chassis on this tube and its fine. Its a chassis issue 100%.
 
Well not 100% but really close. I was more curious to see what happens.

haha yea...i guess :) The fact that a good chassis works on the tube, im not worried about the tube now.

Hopefully someone can chime in with an idea. i might just recap the thing and see if it fixes it, but id rather replace 1 or 2 caps opposed to 26 caps! lol
 
if you want to bring it by we can measure all the caps to see.

there is no reason to redo all the caps.

or you can mail it to me and i will check them.

i have never had a bad cap in my stock but there is always a first.

my bet there is a misinstalled cap value somewhere or one reversed.

you say there are no bridges but theses chassis are a pain to see them on.

Peace
Buffett
 
if you want to bring it by we can measure all the caps to see.

there is no reason to redo all the caps.

or you can mail it to me and i will check them.

i have never had a bad cap in my stock but there is always a first.

my bet there is a misinstalled cap value somewhere or one reversed.

you say there are no bridges but theses chassis are a pain to see them on.

Peace
Buffett

I compared positioning and uf values with my working chassis and every cap was correct except the voltages on the caps listed in my previous post, and that shouldn't matter. I did continuity tests through out the traces from every cap and all tested good. I will send you a PM at some point and we can get together. I'm going to put this one to the side and cap the other chassis I have laying around I guess and see what happens.
 
Bored tonight so Im gonna take a look at this chassis again tonight.

Anyone else have an idea?

Im going to check traces again, and caps. Im gonna swap a few caps and see if anything changes

Bump for new minds :)
 
SWEET!!!!!!!

i knew it was not my HQ caps causing your problem.

this is what a little patience and advice from friends is all about.

Peace
Buffett
 
Last edited:
SWEET!!!!!!!

i knew it was not my HQ caps causing your problem.

this is what a little pacience and advice from friends is all about.

Peace
Buffett

Yea I just missed this one trace when I tested before. It looked like a cap problem, but it turned out my desoldering iron was too hot and burnt the trace at that spot. I repaired it and the chassis works great now!

Now I get to try and revive the other one that has a blown small fuse.... I hope it wasn't plugged in without an ISO
 
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