Sanyo 20EZV Flow Chart

NO luck and strange happenings with Sanyo 14"

Got caps and stuff installed yesterday. Today will replace the HOT and update the transformer in the cocktail with one that will step it down to 100v. Fingers crossed! I think it was just some generic cocktail for Nintendo or Taito boards. The other thing that needed to be fixed is that it was 2-wire electrical all the way around. No grounding.

Ok, so I got the 120->100vac isol xfmr in and tested it:105v Good enough.

Replaced the hot, and when I was doing the cap kit, checked the 2 big power resistors (r609 & r601) and they read in specification. Pulled the diodes and checked them. They read correctly. pulled and inspected the flyback. took readings the best I could on it (dont have a ring tester) and reinstalled. refreshed the solder connections on a lot of things.

Installed everything (except the video from the pcb and the degaussing coil) and turned it on. Got a small wavy white&colored squarish blob in the middle of the screen (about 4x4 inches - wish I had taken a picture). adjusting controls didn't seem to help. Didn't hear any hissing from the flyback (but there was a fan on so it might have masked the noise) and then I noticed the smell of something heating up. a few seconds later the screen went dead, I killed the power, and checked around. R609 (180 ohm, 20 Watt resistor) was smokin' hot. After doing some more checks, I found that the HOT was shorted out, but both fuses were good. I have another HOT to solder in, but before I do that is there something else I should be checking on the board? If I follow the flowchart, since I don't have any blown fuses, it takes me to the B+ adjustment, but i dont think it went into b+ shutdown. Something caused the HOT to go out again.

This is a machine that had been operating fine in a home for a couple weeks after they bought it at a yard sale. So I know it has been recently working.

?
 
on a normal Sanyo every time this has happened to me it was that the fly was bad.

lets hope that is not the case with yours.

Peace
Buffett
 
Replacement

on a normal Sanyo every time this has happened to me it was that the fly was bad.

lets hope that is not the case with yours.

Peace
Buffett

Chad at arcadecup said that he has had no problems using the same FB as in the larger sanyo models so I ordered one and will see how well it works out.
 
there are two different chassis for the sanyo 13-14"
one i think is the same and the other is completely different.

good luck.

Peace
Buffett
 
Yep, yer right.

After looking at some pics he retracted earlier recommendation and gave me a full refund plus refund of the shipping.

So I decided to give it one more go:
Pulled the FB and checked for obvious shorts or opens. None found.
Replaced the HOT.
Took a long time inspecting the PCB's and touching up possible cold solder joints.

Hooked it up again (without being connected the the puckman) through the 120-100vac isol xfmr and took a video. Did the same thing as before. Please excuse the quality of the video, very early in the morning on a holiday :)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MexNWqjybxw&feature=youtu.be

Any thoughts about the issue would be appreciated. Thanks!

there are two different chassis for the sanyo 13-14"
one i think is the same and the other is completely different.

good luck.

Peace
Buffett
 
you can but typically on a Sanyo that means the fly is hosed.
the last 2 19" i repaired that was the cause.

Peace
Buffett
 
OK, thanks. I think I am done with this one. Was helping someone else, but I decided to take it as a learning experience. Time to tell him that a "Plan B" needs to be implemented.
 
I am new to fixing monitors and I just purchased a Donkey Kong. I have recapped my Ms Pacman with no problems but I couldn't even tell on my Donkey Kong monitor what kind it was. The sticker on the back of the tube has S2F046491 on it. But I don't see any wording anywhere that says exactly what it is. Anyway, the monitor seems to have great color and no burn in from what I can tell but the picture is jumbled and constantly moving....unstable? To me it looks like the monitor boards have newer caps in it...not sure. I'm also getting hum when the volume it turned up but no real sound. Here are a few shots. I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction.





 
install a new cap kit to be sure.
some chassis have incomplete cap kits or those stupid get well kits.

if you need parts i have them.
if you need it repaired i can do it for you.

Peace
Buffett
 
Hey Scott, mine does something similar. Here are a couple of links to the video of what it is doing.


After it warms up a bit it looks like whats in the link below
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fbA7vcpK4ig



When you first turn on the machine it looks like this then it seems to get better like in the link above after a few seconds/minutes
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ukCbjX4qA1o

I took out the monitor boards and recapped them and installed a new FBT. I haven't been able to put it back together yet. I was going to do it this thursday but any information you or anyone can add is greatly appreciated.
 
Last edited:
So my DK monitor has been cherry since day one back in November of 2008 I want to say. It's been "cap-kitted" before. Last night, started getting this white screen.

I checked all and a combination of the following:

1. Brightness
2. Sub brightness
3. Flyback screen
4. B+ is at 108V
5. Power supply checks out
6. R478 replaced.
7. Video connectors and ribbons.

I have no idea what is causing this issue. Any advice is appreciated. I want DK back. :(

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1396848045.691731.jpg
 
So my DK monitor has been cherry since day one back in November of 2008 I want to say. It's been "cap-kitted" before. Last night, started getting this white screen.

I checked all and a combination of the following:

1. Brightness
2. Sub brightness
3. Flyback screen
4. B+ is at 108V
5. Power supply checks out
6. R478 replaced.
7. Video connectors and ribbons.

I have no idea what is causing this issue. Any advice is appreciated. I want DK back. :(

View attachment 175530

I have seen similar images when someone has accidentally plugged an unkeyed edge connector in backward.
 
this video i made needs to be in this thread.

it tell you how to color and wite balance your tube and set your B+.



Peace
Buffett
 
Thanks Buffett, but I know it's not an adjustment issue. B+ is set at 108V and the monitor was perfectly set as of two nights ago. I tried resetting adjustments with no luck.
 
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