Sanyo 20EZV Flow Chart

Great flow-chart Dokert, but I don't get that a simple fold-over is pointed to a full-cap kit.
A fold over is almost always C406 (or was it 407 ?)

Of course a full cap-kit is probably a good general idea, but I think a flow-chart should be as specific as possible.

Just an idea.

It is just a basic troubleshooting aid.

You have to pull the whole chassis to replace the single cap, and for a couple of bucks more you can be certain that all of the caps are good while you are there IMO.
 
Replace TR402 and TR403? Service switch is in normal position. Just did a cap kit. That red line is sure bright red...
 

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Replace TR402 and TR403? Service switch is in normal position. Just did a cap kit. That red line is sure bright red...

If it was working before the cap kit, reflow all of the solder that you just did and test again. If it started out with vertical collapse, look for cold solder joints and or cracked traces in the area of TR402 & TR403. Reflow the solder for them as well.
 
I've looked this over and I can't figure out where to measure the B+ on the chassis some direction would be greatly appreciated.
 
TP91/BJ is located on the tube side of the huge white cement resistor on the left side of the chassis when looking at it from the rear.

I've looked this over and I can't figure out where to measure the B+ on the chassis some direction would be greatly appreciated.
 
Make sure to save all old parts until your monitor is back up and running again the way you want it. Especially IC601 and Flybacks.
 
Schematic and some issues with it

I was helping someone on there sanyo and he wasnt the best desolder or solder.. Yes a Newby doing his best GOD bless his soul. The schematic looks like this one but YOU can see it when blown up. Sorry Guy I cant see this one very will maybe this one would be better if it is the same one. http://arcarc.xmission.com/PDF_Monitors/Sanyo_ 20-EZV_(R-B)_Model_31_(1981-3-25).pdf

But anyway I was helping this Newby and he mess up the board a little on doing a cap kit (first one) So he was trying to figure out where this one cap need to go to since he mess up the trace pad and he couldnt tell where it lead too. He posted pictures that I was able to blow up and see for myself where it went. I noticed the schematic was wrong when compared to the board at r162 and c 162. The schematic show c162 is connected to pin 23 on Ic401 but on the board its r162 that is connected there first then c162. just a note...
 
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SanyoBoardControls.jpg
 
I'm sure it's mentioned somewhere but I haven't seen it. Anyways, I have a Sanyo 20ez that the fly back was blown, and a good amount of the caps were rotted with legs falling off.

Anyways I got it rebuilt, and it was going into HV shutdown. +B was sitting at 134v and no change with the pot.

When rebuilding the audio board I didn't replace the 39 ohm fuseable resistor because I didn't have one, and it didn't come with the audio cap kit. Can't recall the resistor # off hand.

Anyways, I guess I should have really looked at the schematics or something, but once I replaced the blown resistor, I was then able to adjust my +B

Just something for those with +B problems to look at.
 
I'm sure it's mentioned somewhere but I haven't seen it. Anyways, I have a Sanyo 20ez that the fly back was blown, and a good amount of the caps were rotted with legs falling off.

Anyways I got it rebuilt, and it was going into HV shutdown. +B was sitting at 134v and no change with the pot.

When rebuilding the audio board I didn't replace the 39 ohm fuseable resistor because I didn't have one, and it didn't come with the audio cap kit. Can't recall the resistor # off hand.

Anyways, I guess I should have really looked at the schematics or something, but once I replaced the blown resistor, I was then able to adjust my +B

Just something for those with +B problems to look at.

That's a WEIRD one. The audio board shouldn't have anything to do with the monitor chassis, should it?
 
So I did a cap kit yesterday on the vs. unisystem I bought because it was bendy/rolling all along the top (yep didn't know that when I bought it...). I plugged it back in and got freakin vertical collapse. I've done plenty of sanyo cap kits and have never had this happen before. The test switch was on normal. I went back and reflowed stuff anyway, even though I don't think I did anything wrong in that regard. The TR 402 and TR 403 area looked fine and I hadn't messed with them previously but I reflowed them anyway. Plugged it all back in and still vertical collapse. Wtf?
 
It shouldn't, but anything is possible.

Here's a screen cap of the schem. The Resistor was R383 Fuseable 39 Ohm

r383.JPG


Which plugs into and appears to work with IC601

ic601.JPG


I haven't had time to examine the circuit. I just know that's what took care of the problem.
 
So I did a cap kit yesterday on the vs. unisystem I bought because it was bendy/rolling all along the top (yep didn't know that when I bought it...). I plugged it back in and got freakin vertical collapse. I've done plenty of sanyo cap kits and have never had this happen before. The test switch was on normal. I went back and reflowed stuff anyway, even though I don't think I did anything wrong in that regard. The TR 402 and TR 403 area looked fine and I hadn't messed with them previously but I reflowed them anyway. Plugged it all back in and still vertical collapse. Wtf?

What model?
 
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