Sanyo 20EZ's are a pain in the butt

[Level42]

The monitor was working before capping it but it was squished vertically somewhat. We'll see if it works when I get it all put back together.

I'm very interested in your results, as mine has the same issue. It's not bad enough that I want to do a full cap-kit for it though...
And I really wonder if it will solve that problem...

I also have one of those "width cap-kits" from BR still laying here for it....

 

[jehuie]

If you don't mind, getting the list would be helpful. Everyone has different cap kits, some don't include some caps, some don't include resistors, etc. Mikesarcade was the only kit I was aware of that included resistors. Just curious to see what Zanen includes.

The resistors in the kit are:
R472 - 33 Ohm
R473 - 1 Ohm
R478 - 1 Ohm

I also added in the caps that Zanen didn't include (found them at Fry's):

C202 - 220 uf, 16v
C411 - 4.7 uf, 25v, bi-polar

 

[cleverlyj]

personally, i don't think sanyos are that bad, as far as the capping aspect. getting it all out of the cab is a little of a pain and takes a little while. i've never removed a sanyo completely, except in my DK cocktail, but in my mario bros, i pulled the chassis, but it took probably 10 minutes to get that and the sound boards and whatnot out.

 

[jehuie]

I'm very interested in your results, as mine has the same issue. It's not bad enough that I want to do a full cap-kit for it though...
And I really wonder if it will solve that problem...

I also have one of those "width cap-kits" from BR still laying here for it....

Got it installed and I have to admit this is one of the nicest looking monitors I've had. It looks beautiful. Bright and steady and ZERO screen burn. This game will be fore sale pretty soon as well (Mr. Do's Castle).

So I don't know if it was the same problem you are having but it fixed it.

 

[thefader]

I just recapped a K7000 for the first time tonight. I have to say this thing was a HUGE pain in the ass compared to a Sanyo.

The K7000 the caps are hard to get at, and arent labeled.

 

[2600]

The resistors in the kit are:
R472 - 33 Ohm
R473 - 1 Ohm
R478 - 1 Ohm

I also added in the caps that Zanen didn't include (found them at Fry's):

C202 - 220 uf, 16v
C411 - 4.7 uf, 25v, bi-polar

Thanks for posting. Those are the same as Mikesarcade. Not sure if anyone else includes them.

 

[jehuie]

Well I just got a Centipede with massive screen burn so I think I found out what I'm going to do with this monitor now!

 

[Level42]

Got it installed and I have to admit this is one of the nicest looking monitors I've had. It looks beautiful. Bright and steady and ZERO screen burn. This game will be fore sale pretty soon as well (Mr. Do's Castle).

So I don't know if it was the same problem you are having but it fixed it.

I meant the screen width, can you have a full screen now (horizontally) ?

 

[jehuie]

I meant the screen width, can you have a full screen now (horizontally) ?

Yes, I've got the full width now. Uh, it's actually the hight that was having the problem but the monitor is rotated so it's the width. But this fixed it.

Is there a way on these monitors to adjust the vertical position of the picture? It's off just a little but I don't see an adjustment for it.

 

[jcroach]

Couple of Noob questions.

Do resistors need to be periodically replaced or are they replaced only when there is a problem? Do they "dry out" like capacitors?

Who has the best/most complete cap kit for a Sanyo 20ez? I'd like to re-cap my monitor and my audio board.

Who is "Zanen"? Do they have a web site? Anyone ever buy from twistedquarter.com?

 

[jehuie]

Couple of Noob questions.

Do resistors need to be periodically replaced or are they replaced only when there is a problem? Do they "dry out" like capacitors?

Who has the best/most complete cap kit for a Sanyo 20ez? I'd like to re-cap my monitor and my audio board.

Who is "Zanen"? Do they have a web site? Anyone ever buy from twistedquarter.com?

Some others can chime in here since I'm not an expert. I've done quite a few cap kits and not many include resistors. Those that do tend to only include the ones that are common failures. Which leads me to believe that, in general, they are pretty robust. But in certain designs individual resistors will become very hot and eventually fail.

I don't know who has the "best" cap kit but the Zanen kit included everything I needed other than a couple minor items I listed above. They don't have a web site per say but if you google Zanen electronics you will find an 800# you can call. Friendly and helpful folks. They accept credit card and get stuff out quickly in my experience.

 

[jcroach]

Some others can chime in here since I'm not an expert. I've done quite a few cap kits and not many include resistors. Those that do tend to only include the ones that are common failures. Which leads me to believe that, in general, they are pretty robust. But in certain designs individual resistors will become very hot and eventually fail.

I don't know who has the "best" cap kit but the Zanen kit included everything I needed other than a couple minor items I listed above. They don't have a web site per say but if you google Zanen electronics you will find an 800# you can call. Friendly and helpful folks. They accept credit card and get stuff out quickly in my experience.

Is this them?

http://wiki.arcadecontrols.com/wiki/Zanen_Electronics

 

[jehuie]

Is this them?

http://wiki.arcadecontrols.com/wiki/Zanen_Electronics

Looks like it.

 

[jehuie]

I meant the screen width, can you have a full screen now (horizontally) ?

Just to circle back on this....the screen actually does have a bit of a wide border width-wise. I tried adjusting the width coil to stretch it but it had no effect. I suspect that's because I don't have the right tool though. It's not bad enough that I'm that concerned with it but at some point I'd like to try stretching it out a bit more. Is that the problem you are having?

 

[smalltownguy2]

FWIW I never run into problems figuring out which caps go where because I remove and replace each component one at a time. Sure, it takes longer, but my systematic method is failsafe - one cap at a time means that I won't accidentally switch polarity, and I know exactly where it goes each time.

I've also gotten in the habit of taking a top-down high resolution picture of my chassis before starting work on it. For that random time when I get interrupted in the middle of my work or accidentally drop a cap and forget which way it was oriented in the board. It's saved my arse a few times.

 

[Ghostnuke]

I've also gotten in the habit of taking a top-down high resolution picture of my chassis before starting work on it. For that random time when I get interrupted in the middle of my work or accidentally drop a cap and forget which way it was oriented in the board. It's saved my arse a few times.

Heh, I do this too. Before I take something apart, I just take a quick pic with my phone.

 

[mac622]

What a great looking monitor though! I have one in a Turbo (that I'm trying to sell). To bad the game wasn't more fun

 

[DZA]

Regarding C201 100 uf @ 16 volts (was originally 10 uf @ 50 volts).

Is this correct? I got a new cap kit that is telling me this too. Seems radically different. I am leaning toward not doing this. Thoughts?

Note to cap kit providers: Please provide all required caps in your cap kit. Thank you.

Here's an old post from Ken Layton:

There are several "Non-Polarized" (a.k.a. Bi-polar) electrolytic capacitors that are NOT included in the capkits that are failing like crazy now due to age.

Not included in some kits are:

C411 4.7 uf @ 25 volts "Bi-Polar"

C162 4.7 uf @ 25 volts "Bi-Polar"

C202 220 uf @ 16 volts

Check C201 100 uf @ 16 volts (was originally 10 uf @ 50 volts).

 

[Buffett]

C201 was 10uf@16v from the factory.

10uf@ 16v or higher will be fine.

Peace
Buffett

 

[DZA]

Thanks. Strange that they just don't include what was standard to avoid confusion. Likewise many of the voltage ratings on my kit were higher.