Sanyo 20EZ's are a pain in the butt

jehuie

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Just got done recapping one of these guys for the first time. The labeling is all great but crap......why does this monitor need so many more caps than WG's? This thing took forever.

And a tip for anyone doing one....put the resistors in first or the capacitors really get in the way. And if you order the Zanen kit, don't remove and throw away C202 because it doesn't come with one and you won't remember which one it was so you will need to dig through your documentation but you will be too tired because it's almost midnight and it took you 2 freaking hours to replace all these stinking parts so instead you will come inside and watch an episode of Twilight Zone featuring people who are ugly because they don't look like pig people.

That is all.
 
lol...hopefully I don't have to recap either of mine anytime soon since they were both claimed to have been done prior to my acquisition of them. I know one needs a filter cap though. :p
 
I only replaced the foldover on my Sanyo's (14" in the MC cabaret I once owned and 20" on the Nintendo cab. They look(ed) brilliant otherwise.

Why they need more caps ? Because it's a better design.

By the way, ever re-capped a Hantarex ? :D :D :D
 
I haven't done one in a long time. One of my buddies knew which caps typically cause problems and would replace only those. He wouldn't even take the PCB all the way off the frame. 5 caps and he was done.
 
I did four of them in a row last August... by the last one I was better at getting everything apart... but I was relieved that I was done. :D

They do have an awesome picture so it's worth it.
 
I hate how you are pretty much forced to remove the whole monitor from the cab to cap it! Not like a good ol Pacman where you can just pop the chassis out with a couple screws and about 2 minutes.......
Pain in the butt, YES, but if you can get the hang of working on that one, the rest are EASY!
Well easy...ER..... :)
 
One of my biggest worries is that I'll have to do a cap kit on mine someday. Which of course I will. Not looking forward to it, though, and hope it is far in the future. The only cap kit I ever did was on my sound amp. That was stressful enough for me (it was my first ever soldering work).
 
What resistors did you replace? I assume they came with the Zanen kit?

Yeah, I don't remember off the top of my head. There were 3 of them. I can get the list for you when I get home if you like. I'm assuming they are common failures since they were included. The monitor was working before capping it but it was squished vertically somewhat. We'll see if it works when I get it all put back together.

Incidentally, the board in the "EZ" is way harder to remove than most monitors as well. Perhaps it's better designed from a functionality standpoint. But certainly not for easy of service!
 
I hate how you are pretty much forced to remove the whole monitor from the cab to cap it! Not like a good ol Pacman where you can just pop the chassis out with a couple screws and about 2 minutes.......
Pain in the butt, YES, but if you can get the hang of working on that one, the rest are EASY!
Well easy...ER..... :)

I didn't know you had to remove the whole monitor so I just removed the board. :) It has screws way up near the tube so you need a stubby screwdriver. And the wires are channeled through like 12 different cable control dohickies that it's impossible to reach with adult sized hands. Otherwise, piece of cake.
 
The only monitors I have ever capped are Sanyos. Are the others way easier?
 
The only monitors I have ever capped are Sanyos. Are the others way easier?

Mostly the Sanyo is just more tedious because there are more parts that need to be replaced. I'm used to doing k6100's (since I like color vectors) and G07's and stuff like that. The chassis on those unscrew and pop right out with only a few plugs to pull off. They have fewer components to swap and they are roomy.

The sanyo's are more clearly marked though. But I can't imagine doing a Sanyo without a cap-map handy.
 
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Yeah, I don't remember off the top of my head. There were 3 of them. I can get the list for you when I get home if you like. I'm assuming they are common failures since they were included. The monitor was working before capping it but it was squished vertically somewhat. We'll see if it works when I get it all put back together.

If you don't mind, getting the list would be helpful. Everyone has different cap kits, some don't include some caps, some don't include resistors, etc. Mikesarcade was the only kit I was aware of that included resistors. Just curious to see what Zanen includes.
 
Note to cap kit providers: Please provide all required caps in your cap kit. Thank you.

Here's an old post from Ken Layton:

There are several "Non-Polarized" (a.k.a. Bi-polar) electrolytic capacitors that are NOT included in the capkits that are failing like crazy now due to age.

Not included in some kits are:

C411 4.7 uf @ 25 volts "Bi-Polar"

C162 4.7 uf @ 25 volts "Bi-Polar"

C202 220 uf @ 16 volts

Check C201 100 uf @ 16 volts (was originally 10 uf @ 50 volts).
 
Its way easier to remove the whole monitor then pull off the chassis then trying to take out chassis installed in the game. 20 ez was the first capkit I ever did wasnt that bad


Andrew

I didn't know you had to remove the whole monitor so I just removed the board. :) It has screws way up near the tube so you need a stubby screwdriver. And the wires are channeled through like 12 different cable control dohickies that it's impossible to reach with adult sized hands. Otherwise, piece of cake.
 
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