Sanyo 20EZ Wavy screen after C606 replaced B+ stuck on 89

OIB1981

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Sanyo 20EZ Wavy screen after C606 replaced B+ stuck on 89

I think my B Plus pot is bad. I've done a cap kit flyback and C606 when checking the B + after the Flyback and C606 replacement I can't get it off of 89 just kinda stutters there. So guess i should replace the B + pot. Good idea?
 
those pots are junk

those pots are junk replace it any way.

i have a chassis doing the same thing and cant figure out what's wrong. kinda driving me nut's. want to play Popeye and cant. new reg, sip and pot and it still wont adjust:confused:

and yes some times that fixes it.

Peace
Buffett
 
Did you do the deluxe cap kit or just the normal one? I did just the normal one. I was thinking maybe doing the deluxe see if that helps as well. Whats an sip?
 
did the delux kit.

but when i was adjusting the b+ with the old pot my dumb ass was not using an insulated screw driver bumped the heat sink it sparked and i haven't been able to adjust it since.

i have tested many of the resisters and things and cannot figure it out.

the sip is the long black chip IC601 located strait out from the vr.

some people have replaced that and it fixed their problem as well.

i put two different one's in mine a new and an old from a parts board and it didn't help.

it just changed the b+ higher or lower. but i still cant adjust it.

Peace
Buffett
 
yes that is the VR.

hope that fixes it for you it did not for me i still have the wavy pic and non adjustable B+. i am still stumped.

Peace
Buffett
 
Thanks I'll let ya know after I power it up here in a bit. Replaced the B+ pot and Q901. I've got a Sanyo cap kit deluxe here. I figured I can change the caps that I didn't replace with the regular kit if this doesn't work.
 
if you have the caps do it any way so you wont have to bother taking it apart again. trust me i have taken mine out about a dozen times trying to figure it out. its getting old on the same chassis over and over and over...

Peace
Buffett
 
Well kinda wanted to know what it was. Anyhow plugged the chassis back up and I'm blowing the main fuse where the Power plugs in. I thought it was how they had it crimped before. I redid that and blew another fuse.
 
try this (assuming you have a dedicated Nintendo cab) its just a standard 2 prong plug get a short 2 wire extension cord lop off the female end and solder it to the chassis and then plug it into the power brick in the bottom of the cab.
that way you wont have to mess with a hacked up power cord.

if not make sure its coming off a 100 volt trans former. other wise you will blow up other things on the chassis.

and check your bridge rectifier diodes make sure they aren't shorted that will smoke a fuse as well.

also check for solder bridges and if you put a new filter cap in make sure it's in the rite way. as it's kinda confusing the way its marked on the chassis.

Peace
Buffett
 
I just pulled the chassis. I cracked it. Around the C606 where that heat sink connects to the board. Looked like it only broke one trace on the - side of the C606 and I jumped the trace and fired it back up with a slow burn fuse out of my dad's pinball machine. Blew the big fuse on the chassis. I guess I need a new chassis or figure out all the traces I broke. I've done enough damage for tonight. I'm done for now.
 
Here some photo's of the crack. Isn't real bad. From all I can tell it only broke the trace from the negative side of the C606 cap. I figured I fixed it with the jumper wire I added.









Anyhow if a chassis was cracked like this would it cause the main fuse to blow down by the power supply? After I put the slow burn fuse in it blew the 4 amp big fuse on this chassis. And that was with the wire fix on the C606 cap. Could it be the replacement for Q901 was bad? Also replaced the B+ pot. I looked those over and no solder pad looked crossed.

I'm about 80% sure the wire running from the wall to my machine is fine. I solder it back together and tape the conductor wires then put heat shrink tubing over the solder joint. I tested with continuity tester and nothing is wrong with the readings. I did cut the ground wire and didn't reconnect in the solder joint but the plug didn't have the ground prong anyhow. Could that of been a problem? I wouldn't think so but I could be wrong.
 
Well I'm back. Crack fixed in the chassis. I was shorting the Q901 to the heat sink was the reason I was blowing fuses. Anyhow, got a new Q901 from Bob and installed it right this time and still wavy picture and B+ will not adjust? Any idea's on what I should do next? Almost feel like buying another Chassis. This one just doesn't want to be repaired easy.
 
try this

just an update i fixed my sanyo i took ic601 off a parts chassis and it worked.

then got curious on the ic601's i got from bob around 1 1/2 - 2 years ago and put a socket in place of ic601 and tested all 8 that i got back then and none of them worked. so i guess he still has a bad batch if ic601's.

after testing them i put the used one i had back in and could adjust my B+ to a perfect 108vdc. so the monitor loves again yea!!.:)

so try and find them from another source and try again they all cant be bad.

Peace
Buffett
 
Hmm well I order one from Bob the other day. Maybe this can redeem his Q601's. If not I'm not really sure where I'll get em.

Thanks for the update though this give's me some hope.
 
yea don't give up.

i have fixed 10 sanyo's in the last 2-3 days i am kinda getting tired of taking them in and out of the frames.

the one i am working on now has no raster if i can get that one fixed it will bee #11.

problem is i have around another 8-10 left to do and i am out of some of the caps i need.:(

so if you do find another good source. i would like to have some on hand for the next one or two that need it.

Peace
Buffett
 
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