Sanyo 20EZ Wavy, like a ripple in a puddle. Video Inside

kmssd

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Sanyo 20EZ Wavy, like a ripple in a puddle. Video Inside

My monitor got wavy so I went ahead and replaced C606. On top of that since I had it out I bought a deluxe cap kit from Bob Roberts. Changed them and its still there. The B+ voltage holds pretty steady at 108v.

Here's what I did
Recapped with deluxe kit (monitor and audio board)
Changed C606
Got B+ to 108v (original pot)

In the video the brightness, vertical scrolling of words, and red dot are all from the camera.

Notice how it is a slight wave but it changes direction and speed. Also it covers the entire monitor, I only recorded that tiny area because the camera makes the image really bright.


My step is to change IC601, but I just wanna make sure it isn't something else.
 
I'm guessing I am seeing a reflection from the glass as to the scrolling I am seeing in the video. Have you checked out the power supply to the game? If you have a replacement, try exchanging it....or if you have another video source, try hooking it up to this monitor and see what you get.
 
I'm guessing I am seeing a reflection from the glass as to the scrolling I am seeing in the video. Have you checked out the power supply to the game? If you have a replacement, try exchanging it....or if you have another video source, try hooking it up to this monitor and see what you get.

If you mean the scrolling of the words/letters going up while being a little tilted, that is all in the camera. That isn't really happening on screen.
 
Well I replaced IC601, Q901 and the B+ pot turned it on and got it as close as I could to 108V. Still has the original ripple but now it also waves like a flag.
 
wave

try pluging it in another outlet. or another leg completely. interference can cause this as well.
 
I know Buffett had similar issues with a few EZs. He replaced the IC601 from Bob and had the same issue. Then he swapped with one from a parts chassis and it went away...where is your 601 from? I'm sure Buffett will be here soon :)
 
I know Buffett had similar issues with a few EZs. He replaced the IC601 from Bob and had the same issue. Then he swapped with one from a parts chassis and it went away...where is your 601 from? I'm sure Buffett will be here soon :)

I've read about the problem batch and I got my mine from Riptor.
 
when you adjusted the B+ pot did it adjust smoothly above and below 108vdc.

or was it speratic when adjusted, and hard to dial in.

if you adjusted the old B+ pot with a metal tool you could have shorted the new IC601 and or the Q901.

it does not take much to short them out. i have done it a time or two myself.

Peace
Buffett
 
when you adjusted the B+ pot did it adjust smoothly above and below 108vdc.

or was it speratic when adjusted, and hard to dial in.

if you adjusted the old B+ pot with a metal tool you could have shorted the new IC601 and or the Q901.

it does not take much to short them out. i have done it a time or two myself.

Peace
Buffett

Yes it was sporadic. Seemed like the adjustment was within a small window and then jump to a big number like 127 and squealed. I don't think it's at 108 on the nose. I got it around 107~, but it hovers around that.

I installed all three items at once, IC601, Q901 and the B+ pot.

PS, just a note for any reading this, beside me and Buffett. The B+ pot I bought/installed from him is plastic.
 
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Make sure the big white resistor beside the power cord isn't failing when a loads on it. I replaced everything much like yourself. I sent the chassis off to Arcade Cup and i believe that was the issue.

My chassis was waving as well. Check the other white resistor to I'm not sure which one it was.
 
Make sure the big white resistor beside the power cord isn't failing when a loads on it. I replaced everything much like yourself. I sent the chassis off to Arcade Cup and i believe that was the issue.

My chassis was waving as well. Check the other white resistor to I'm not sure which one it was.

Would I measure it's resistance while on and check if it is within specs?
 
if the B+ jumped that much and you can't adjust it smoothly then i would still suspect the new IC601.

it should adjust smoothly above and below 108 without jumping.
all the bad ones i got from bob several years ago would do this or not adjust at all.

do you still have your old IC601 if so was it bad or do you not know.
i would swap it back in if you have it and see what happens.

Peace
Buffett
 
if the B+ jumped that much and you can't adjust it smoothly then i would still suspect the new IC601.

it should adjust smoothly above and below 108 without jumping.
all the bad ones i got from bob several years ago would do this or not adjust at all.

do you still have your old IC601 if so was it bad or do you not know.
i would swap it back in if you have it and see what happens.

Peace
Buffett

I have every part I removed so far, I only suspected it may have been bad because I had the tiny initial ripple.
 
Would I measure it's resistance while on and check if it is within specs?

To be honest I'm really not sure that's just what Chad from Arcade Cup told me. I guess you test the resistance while the chassis is on. I would clip your leads to both sides then power on and see what it is. I replaced the IC601 from Bob's and Riptor and still had the same problem.
 
resistance.

Do not check resistance with your machine powered on. Remove the component and test it..
 
Do not check resistance with your machine powered on. Remove the component and test it..

Well I really wasn't sure. I'd just replace the thing. Only reason I said to do it while it was on didn't know how you'd figure it failed while a load was on it without testing it with a load on it. Could it hurt the meter or something?
 
To be honest I'm really not sure that's just what Chad from Arcade Cup told me. I guess you test the resistance while the chassis is on. I would clip your leads to both sides then power on and see what it is. I replaced the IC601 from Bob's and Riptor and still had the same problem.

What other sources sell the IC601 if they happen to both have bad ones?

Do not check resistance with your machine powered on. Remove the component and test it..
If your multimeter has a fuse you'll blow it. If it doesn't, it will be destroyed.

Understood.
 
I see. Sorry for the bad info then. If those resistors aren't to much I'd just replace em. I really do think he replaced the one beside where the power cord connects to the PCB. Worth a shot I guess.

I had close to $250 in this chassis trying to figure it out. It looked to be the same problem your having. Just trying to save that expense for you.
 
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