Sanyo 20EZ Waves

The service switch has been switched back and forth several times. It is currently switched so that it pointing to the back of the monitor, toward the B+ adjustment.
 
You have to desolder one leg of each resistor in question, set your multi meter to ohms and meter it out. If it's out of spec or "open - reads zero" you need to replace them.

You have to realize that when you cap a monitor you are adding more stress to other components which can cause them to fail. It's why Dokert is recommending to check for other failed components.
 
Deadly, thanks. I'll give that a try tonight.

I didn't realize I was adding any stress by re-capping and adding the flyback. Sorry, I'm pretty new at this. (Though at this point, I feel pretty comfortable around the back of the monitor-i must have gone through the discharge process 20 times now).

I have an extra IC601 that i got from BR. What are the chances that the current one is blown? Honestly I don't even know what that part does. Can it be blown?
 
barrysfarm said:
I have an extra IC601 that i got from BR. What are the chances that the current one is blown? Honestly I don't even know what that part does. Can it be blown?
Click to expand...

It is a possibility, but make sure that you save the old one. Bob has recently had some failures of his IC601's and the reasons have not yet been determined.

Sorry I didn't get a chance to tell you not to put in a new fly.
 
Ok. I'll keep that in mind.

If the flyback wasn't originally the issue, then as far as I can tell the new one installed fine, since it's the same result as the old flyback. We'll see if my logic holds up.

Would it be any benefit to replace the 2 fuses with new ones? I mean, a fuse is either broken or it isn't right? There isn't any in between.
 
I reflowed all solder joints around IC601 and replaced the IC.

Also, tested R473 & R239. They are reading the correct resistance.

For a couple minutes I had the same horizontal line, then I tried adjusting the B+ voltage because it was 112v. When I turned it down, I got a spark and now B+ is stuck at 140v, and I get no image what-so-ever.

Any other ideas?
 
Just took the chassis out again and went over every solder point with a magnifying glass. Then I reflowed any solder points that didn't look quite right.

No change. I give up.

I've purchased a new working chassis. Should be here in the next few days. We'll see what happens. If that doesn't work, does anyone know anyone in central illinois that would have an extra monitor that I could buy off them?
 
I'd sure have to asume your tube and yoke are good. If the "new" board doesn't work out for you might I suggest you buy a Wei-ya chassis??!
If it's a Nintendo game being used you'll also need to buy an inverter board but I've purchased several lately and they are easy to install and work like a champ.
 
Deadly said:
I'd sure have to asume your tube and yoke are good. If the "new" board doesn't work out for you might I suggest you buy a Wei-ya chassis??!
If it's a Nintendo game being used you'll also need to buy an inverter board but I've purchased several lately and they are easy to install and work like a champ.
Click to expand...

For a different chassis, would I need a different power supply too, since the DK PS is at 100v?

Where can I get the Wei-ya chassis from? I can't find much info on them.

Thanks again for everyones help in this thread. I really appreciate it. Most of my posts are written right after I spend a whole evening working on this monitor to no avail, so I'm afraid I came of too curt.
 
The new chassis can be plugged directly into an outlet - otherwise buy a standard ISO to use.
http://alvaamusement.com
I believe my last chassis was ~ $75 shipped.

Alva sells them cheaper than 8liners.com

Here's a good read to help you order your chassis - you need to measure the yokes impedance:
http://www.8liners.com/datatech/monitor.html

Keep in mind Nintendos colors are inverted and the audios power is fed from the chassis so you'll need this as well:
http://mikesarcade.com/cgi-bin/store.pl?sku=NININVAMP
 
Last edited:
Future advice, Chad here on the forums is a chassis repairman. I'm sure someone can link you to his website. He is great at it and I never had any complaints with his service.

Kevin
 
teckkev said:
Future advice, Chad here on the forums is a chassis repairman. I'm sure someone can link you to his website. He is great at it and I never had any complaints with his service.

Kevin
Click to expand...

I think I purchased by flyback from him. arcadecup.com. I'll keep this in mind. Thanks!

Deadly said:
The new chassis can be plugged directly into an outlet - otherwise buy a standard ISO to use.
http://alvaamusement.com
I believe my last chassis was ~ $75 shipped.

Alva sells them cheaper than 8liners.com

Here's a good read to help you order your chassis - you need to measure the yokes impedance:
http://www.8liners.com/datatech/monitor.html

Keep in mind Nintendos colors are inverted and the audios power is fed from the chassis so you'll need this as well:
http://mikesarcade.com/cgi-bin/store.pl?sku=NININVAMP
Click to expand...

Thanks for all of this info! I'm hoping I won't need it, but eventually (if not this project, def one down the road) i'm sure i will.
 
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