Sanyo 20EZ Horizontal Width

Hothman

Active member

Donor 2012
Joined
Oct 31, 2011
Messages
646
Reaction score
26
Location
Coastal, Georgia
How in the hell do you adjust this without playing HV roulette? :confused:

I think I have the right tool, but the monitor neck is in the way and the high voltage cage is next to it.
 
There are plastic hex-end tools for this task. use one while the monitor is running, or a regular hex when the monitor is powered off. The metallic Allen wrench tools will interfere with the induction adjustment while they are inserted, and when you remove the tool you will see the width change. Using a plastic tool will not affect the inductance of the coil and you'll be able to see the change live. Metal allen wrenches will also get very hot if you put one in there while the monitor is powered up. It does not take long for the tool to get too hot to handle.
 
DO NOT EVER USE A METAL TOOL.

if you crack the core there are NO replacements.

you can cut down your tool if you need to.

they are cheap and you will need another anyway.
this way you will have a choice when other things are in the way.

Peace
Buffett
 
http://therealbobroberts.net/bobskit.jpg

Use those or something similar and PLASTIC as mentoined above for the width coil.

http://therealbobroberts.net/adjtool.jpg

I was going to reconmmed the second link for adjusting the pots on your monitor just in case, but it looks like that tool is no longer available. Probably the best couple of bucks I'd ever spent, makes it a breeze dialing in your picture. I'm sure someone knows where a similar tool is available.
 
DO NOT EVER USE A METAL TOOL.

if you crack the core there are NO replacements.

you can cut down your tool if you need to.

they are cheap and you will need another anyway.
this way you will have a choice when other things are in the way.

Peace
Buffett

Thanks Buffett. I have a set of plastic monitor tools and thought about cutting the hex tool down. I just wanted to see if there was another trick to this that I wasn't thinking of with that neck right in the way. Also, is their any worries with the HV cage being right there? I assume you do this powered up.

Broken width coil = shopping for new chasis. Got it.
 
no prob happy to help.

no not really it is either bend/flex the tool or cut it off.

you could shop for a new chassis but there are a few broken chassis out there that have good width coils on them.

i would not worry about the HV cage it is there to protect you from getting bit.
it hurts believe me.

yes you need to do it with the power on so you can see the change happen.
you will not get much out of the coil so you need to see it reach it's limit.

screw it out of the coil first it should get wider going that direction.

Peace
Buffett
 
The width coil seems to be stuck. I'll continue to work on it to see if it will loosen up, but I don't want to break it. The picture is probably only about an inch too small, so I can just let it go for now. Also the horizontal center pot is cranked all the way to one end, so making the picture wider may push it off the screen since I can't adjust the pot anymore. I guess that means it's time for a new pot?

B+ is 101.3. I have not tried adjusting it as I assume that is close enough.

BR covers width coils pretty well here:
http://www.therealbobroberts.net/wc.html
 
Buffet is going to have a cow but before I work on a chassis I wash it, but before that I make sure the width coil is adjustable. If it isn't I squirt a little WD-40 in there and carefully loosen it up.

Most of the WD-40 washes off, but I doubt it would harm the electronics except help dust collect. Just a tiny bit is all you need.

Also plastic straws attached to the adjustment tool to make it longer help.
 
Buffet is going to have a cow but before I work on a chassis I wash it, but before that I make sure the width coil is adjustable. If it isn't I squirt a little WD-40 in there and carefully loosen it up.

Most of the WD-40 washes off, but I doubt it would harm the electronics except help dust collect. Just a tiny bit is all you need.

Also plastic straws attached to the adjustment tool to make it longer help.


why would i have a cow i wash chassis and tubes all the time.

110vdc is not bad but you should try and get it to 108vdc if it is adjustable.

if it is not you need to fix that before continuing.

if this chassis has not been capped then you need to do that first before messing with the width coil.

you can use some WD but i would remove the coil to avoid overspray on the other components.

you can try and use a HAIR DRYER to heat the coil to try and get it free.

DO NOT USE A HEAT GUN IT HEATS THE PLASTIC TO FAST AND WILL BURN IT OR MELT AND DEFORM IT.

this is what i would do to fix your issues.

Peace
Buffett
 
Are there any parts for a K7000 that aren't available anymore? (I'm pretty sure I've been told "no," but I can't find that post, now.) I've made toner-transfer circuit boards before, seems like it would be a simple thing to make new boards for K7000 chassis, and I know it could be done if I ordered a few from a fab shop.

My point is that new K7000s could be made if there were enough will. Seems that the parts are almost all available, or suitable replacements exist, except in the case of one or two of the ICs used.

why are you asking about another monitor type in a SANYO THREAD!!!!!!!!!!

please start your own threads about theses things, people get confused when the want to research for problems on specific problems that obtain to their specific chassis type.

and yes there are parts that are no longer available for every chassis type prior to 1999 and several afterwords.

Peace
Buffett
 
Back
Top Bottom