Sanyo 20ez horizontal is off

78whiteorbs

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Have a dual monitor Play Choice and though the bottom monitor is clear and crisp it is rolled 25% off and horizontal position doesn't move anything like it does on the top monitor.

The horizontal hold doesn't fix it either. Could have something to do with the yoke moving?

Check the bottom monitor wrap- haven't seen this one before. Fine otherwise.
 

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Did you try the PCB adjustments itself. Most Nintendo PCB's have a horz. And Vert adjustment on the game board.
 
Did you try the PCB adjustments itself. Most Nintendo PCB's have a horz. And Vert adjustment on the game board.
Vs. and PC-10 only have color adjustments

@78whiteorbs a combination of H. Center (at the "remote" board by the amplifier board) and H. Hold (behind the flyback in what visually seems to be a dangerous spot but in actual execution really isn't LOL) might get the picture centered better. for future reference to anyone reading, you can squeeze out a little bit of horizontal centering from the H. Hold before it breaks and goes curly.
 
Sounds stupid but have you capped these monitors yet? Are they are sanyos or sharps? Top monitors geometry looks off which could indicate bad caps, bad caps could also be throwing off your image on bottom monitor. Some more context about the monitors type and history would help. Why would you say the yoke moved, did you loosen it and move it? Did you smack the tube on something?
 
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Did you try the PCB adjustments itself. Most Nintendo PCB's have a horz. And Vert adjustment on the game board.
Didn't know this. Where is this located exactly
Sounds stupid but have you capped these monitors yet? Are they are sanyos or sharps? Top monitors geometry looks off which could indicate bad caps, bad caps could also be throwing off your image on bottom monitor. Some more context about the monitors type and history would help. Why would you say the yoke moved, did you loosen it and move it? Did you smack the tube on something?
I haven't moved anything. New to me sanyo as stated in title. It isn't rolling just "stuck" at a quarter roll . The horizontal hold on the top moves image left and right like it should but on the bottom monitor it doesn't to a thing. Trying barely adjusting the horizontal hold but no dice. Was gonna have recapped eventually sure but the bottom image is so nice it just looked like an adjustment issue.
 
Didn't know this. Where is this located exactly

I haven't moved anything. New to me sanyo as stated in title. It isn't rolling just "stuck" at a quarter roll . The horizontal hold on the top moves image left and right like it should but on the bottom monitor it doesn't to a thing. Trying barely adjusting the horizontal hold but no dice. Was gonna have recapped eventually sure but the bottom image is so nice it just looked like an adjustment issue.
Those games can use either a sharp xm2001n or sanyo monitor. Post pictures of the monitor and I can confirm which one it is because you seem unsure. It's important to confirm which it is. If they are sanyos you are not going to get away with not capping them, they require a cap kit. I know caps can cause foldover and weird image issues on sanyos so it's the first place to start. Did you just acquire this arcade machine and it was in this condition when you got it? You need to fully explain your situation and background on the machine so people can better assist you. You may have had this machine with broken monitors and swapped monitors these in, those are important details if you want help. You also need to learn how to properly maintain these monitors if you want to own games like this and have them be reliable, a cap kit is a minimum there is no "well the monitor looks nice I guess I'll leave it" unless you want catastrophic failures to eventually happen.

Also you should first determine if it's an issue with the game pcb. Could be an issue with it, I don't know too much about nintendo playchoice pcbs so I can't say if a broken chip could cause a sync issue/image position issue. Easy test is to swap the video cable from the top monitor to the bottom and see if the issue follows the video signal or stays on the monitor
 
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Looked closer the bottom with the problem is a sharp xm-200IN

Top is a model 20-Z2AW

Haven't been capped - I know that is on the horizon just wanted to see if I can adjust this out in the meantime. The picture is like new.
 

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I noticed that you addressed everyone else in the thread except me, when I provided you detailed information for your problem for what you said was a Sanyo 20EZ.

if you want my help at least know what you're talking about and provide the right information.

everything I said previously still applies.
 
Looks like I was right, it's a sharp monitor. There are usually sharps in the dual monitor Nintendo cabs. You need to cap it, I can see the original capacitors on there. You probably are just out of adjustment but you need to cap each monitor if you want to keep these games running long term. Look up the adjustments for a sharp xm2001n. You need to inform yourself better to be in this hobby you cannot assume because donkey Kong usually has a Sanyo that's the only monitor that exists. I just put a sharp xm2001n in a dk junior and can tell you it's nothing like a Sanyo 20ez it's more like a k7000, completely different tubes, yokes, chassis, and controls. That black pot on the center of the chassis next to the filter caps is the v position, if you haven't adjusted that it could help. Also adjust the h position on the remote board. You still haven't explained the history of this machine, why it has 2 different monitors? Did you acquire it recently in this state or did you own this and try and repair it by replacing monitors?
 
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Vs. and PC-10 only have color adjustments

@78whiteorbs a combination of H. Center (at the "remote" board by the amplifier board) and H. Hold (behind the flyback in what visually seems to be a dangerous spot but in actual execution really isn't LOL) might get the picture centered better. for future reference to anyone reading, you can squeeze out a little bit of horizontal centering from the H. Hold before it breaks and goes curly.
Tried both of those to no avail mecha-

Looks like I was right, it's a sharp monitor. There are usually sharps in the dual monitor Nintendo cabs. You need to cap it, I can see the original capacitors on there. You probably are just out of adjustment but you need to cap each monitor if you want to keep these games running long term. Look up the adjustments for a sharp xm2001n. You need to inform yourself better to be in this hobby you cannot assume because donkey Kong usually has a Sanyo that's the only monitor that exists. I just put a sharp xm2001n in a dk junior and can tell you it's nothing like a Sanyo 20ez it's more like a k7000, completely different tubes, yokes, chassis, and controls. That black pot on the center of the chassis next to the filter caps is the v position, if you haven't adjusted that it could help. Also adjust the h position on the remote board. You still haven't explained the history of this machine, why it has 2 different monitors? Did you acquire it recently in this state or did you own this and try and repair it by replacing monitors?
Just got this game recieved as is , the history of this machine like a majority of machines people buy is unknown. I'm a little bit new to nintendos not arcade games. I have had well over 100 easy and made many successful repairs but I'm no pro- This looks like it can be adjusted out because the image is clear and stable but out of poaition but I have tried every single adjustment combination to no avail that I can see or think of.. If I adjust the horizon position it now does move like it should but after it moves past a few degrees of travel the sync gets all screwy and scrambles. I switched the video signal connectors between the two monitors and the problem stayed with the monitor (so I believe its a monitor issue not a signak) so I am just gonna go ahead and have the chassis both rebuilt by a member here that usually does mine. It needs it anyways so I will go ahead and get that out of the way and more than likely I got a gut feeling it fixes the issue just wanted to see if there was some adjustment I was missing. Looks like there is a horizontal width adjustment coil like on a wg chassis with the hex head that I haven't tried moving yet now that I think about it so just for fun I might try adjusting that first but still gonna send them out.

Thanks for the input and help.

if I hook my tpg up to it it displays the same thing stable image but out of position. As if stuck in a partial horizontal roll. I am guessing that the ez20 and the sharp that replaced the lower one somewhere down the line use the same sync....

One other thing I noticed on the sharp is a clicking sound I believe is some arching somewhere near the flyback so yeah it needs rebuilt so I am gonna have that done and see if that doesn't resolve the issue. Thanks again all who replied.
 
Tried both of those to no avail mecha-


Just got this game recieved as is , the history of this machine like a majority of machines people buy is unknown. I'm a little bit new to nintendos not arcade games. I have had well over 100 easy and made many successful repairs but I'm no pro- This looks like it can be adjusted out because the image is clear and stable but out of poaition but I have tried every single adjustment combination to no avail that I can see or think of.. If I adjust the horizon position it now does move like it should but after it moves past a few degrees of travel the sync gets all screwy and scrambles. I switched the video signal connectors between the two monitors and the problem stayed with the monitor (so I believe its a monitor issue not a signak) so I am just gonna go ahead and have the chassis both rebuilt by a member here that usually does mine. It needs it anyways so I will go ahead and get that out of the way and more than likely I got a gut feeling it fixes the issue just wanted to see if there was some adjustment I was missing. Looks like there is a horizontal width adjustment coil like on a wg chassis with the hex head that I haven't tried moving yet now that I think about it so just for fun I might try adjusting that first but still gonna send them out.

Thanks for the input and help.

if I hook my tpg up to it it displays the same thing stable image but out of position. As if stuck in a partial horizontal roll. I am guessing that the ez20 and the sharp that replaced the lower one somewhere down the line use the same sync....

One other thing I noticed on the sharp is a clicking sound I believe is some arching somewhere near the flyback so yeah it needs rebuilt so I am gonna have that done and see if that doesn't resolve the issue. Thanks again all who replied.
Next time if you have questions like this post some info about the background of the machine like even one sentence just "I recently got this game like this: where do I start?". That can tell experienced people a lot also post pictures of the monitors themselves from the back so people can help you identify what it is you're looking at. If you've got the skills to remove the chassis from the frame capping it is easy with some cheap irons, worth while thing to train yourself how to do. Sharp would not be a great monitor to learn on though, board is not well labeled, Sanyo 20ez is great to learn on though. I prefer to do any repair I can myself before I resort to sending an item out, shipping a chassis can crack it so I'd rather avoid that. Never had a monitor I couldn't fix myself, now game pcbs are a different story!
 
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