Sanyo 20EZ help!

Why do you think it was plugged into the wall?

If it was, it probably blew the rectifying diodes and the voltage regulator, maybe some fuses or caps.

If you know what you're doing - rebuild it. If not, pay to have someone else rebuild it. If you think you want to learn to do it yourself, start with the 20EZ sticky...
 
Just got a VS cab. I think the monitor was plugged into the wall...

What can I do now?

New chassis?
New monitor?
New parts?

Any help is awesome!

Can you upload some good pics of the monitor and chassis. If plugged into 120volts, you should be able to see some damage.
 
No idea what to take a picture of...
 

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did you attempt to replace the big fuse did it blow when it was powered on.
what about the little fuse is it there and if it is was, was it blown.

your pics are a bit blurry its hard to tell anything.

take some clear pics of the area around the grey power chord.

Peace
Buffett
 
haven't replaced any fuses. They test on my multimeter fine (long beep).

Is this what you're looking for?
 

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now some pics of the under side by the power chord.

look for any cracks in the area and re-flow the solder on the chord.

Peace
Buffett
 
So what does the little burn mean on the board where the plug attaches?

I've read about testing the HOT and other things, but I don't know what those are/look like. Can I even test those when the chassis is out of the cab/monitor and sitting beside me?
 
it may mean nothing but we will see.
re-flow that side by the power wire and test the 4 rectifier diodes.
to see if they are shorted together.

yes test all the parts wile you have the chassis out.

do a search here in the monitor section.
me and many others have explained it in great detail on how to test all those parts on a sanyo and other chassis.



Peace
Buffett
 
haven't replaced any fuses. They test on my multimeter fine (long beep).

Is this what you're looking for?
attachment.php

I assume the fuse that was in that spot is smoked? The burn mark looks like the fuse blew pretty good. The rectifier diodes are D601, D602, D603, and D604. You can test that they're good with the diode check, or if you use the continuity check across them and they beep, then they're bad. Typically at least two of them will blow.

DogP
 
it may mean nothing but we will see.
re-flow that side by the power wire and test the 4 rectifier diodes.
to see if they are shorted together.

yes test all the parts wile you have the chassis out.

do a search here in the monitor section.
me and many others have explained it in great detail on how to test all those parts on a sanyo and other chassis.



Peace
Buffett

They all passed the contin. test (no beep).

I've searched for the last 3 hours. Nothing is exactly what i need.

I just re-soldered the power cord to the board.
 
Fuse passes contin. test (gives beep).

Tested 601, 602, 603, and 604 with contin. and it did not beep.

Does the burn mark look fresh or old (is there dust over the burn)? That looks like a typical burn from the fuse blowing, but could have been from a long time ago.

You say the fuse tests fine... I see there's no fuse installed in the pics. You're testing it removed from the chassis, right?

It's possible that you lucked out... it's very rare that you can plug a monitor into a wall and have it not blow something, but those rectifiers and fuse are pretty much what blows every time.

DogP
 
I don't know. The board isn't really dusty, just the components.

I am testing the fuse in hand.

I was playing this morning and the screen shut down (shrunk into the middle into nothing). Then the sound quit shortly after. Then we restarted and I don't remember if it played blind or not. At some point it was plugged into the wall because we thought it would plug in. Nothing happened. I don't remember a pop/smell/anything.

Then we kept trying to turn it on and only the marquee would work.

Tested the power all the way to the plug inside that the monitor and marquee plugs in. 100 at the plug.

So now what? I'm confused...
 
I assume you've been over this: http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=111041 ? If the fuses are fine, I'd look elsewhere. Listen for HV, look for neck glow, and check the B+. Problems caused by B+ pots are very common.

DogP


I have. It makes little to no sense to me.
Is f301 and f302 the 2 fuses?
How do I check the HOT Q902?
How do I check if the flyback is bad?
What is HV?
I would have to re-install the chassis to check neck glow, right?
I read about the B+. It confused me. Where is it on the board/what do I do?

If the F301 and F302 are testing fine, then that leaves me with the choice of it cutting off after a few seconds. That's not happening. Where's that leave me.

Keep in mind, the whole chassis is out of the monitor/cab and sitting on a table. Not sure if they effects these tests.
 
Yeah, those are the two fuses.

To test the HOT, you use your multimeter on "diode test". See how to use the diode test here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hRKzZTk27Ug . Then follow the instructions on the flow chart for measuring it. But if you're not blowing fuses, most likely the HOT isn't blown.

Testing on a table is fine... you don't need to test with the cabinet.

There's not really a good way to test for a bad flyback, but usually it'll blow the small fuse.

I'd say it's likely in the "screen goes blank after a few seconds" category, where few = zero. Basically, you have a blank screen with no blown fuses.

DogP
 
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