Sanyo 20EZ help - DKong

Fenneys

Member

Donor 2021
Joined
Jul 3, 2021
Messages
38
Reaction score
28
Location
Ponte Vedra Beach, Florida
Hi,

Looking for some help with a DKong I have picked up. The monitor clearly needs help! (Ive looked at the flowchart)

The game is displayed (faintly in the background) and just have a loud clicking for sound however the screen is like the below....

I have turned the drive pots on the neck board but they dont appear to do anything....
the flyback when turned up puts the screen in vertical collapse
The other pots (hold, size) work but dont improve it

Do I start with a cap kit - or is there something else I should try first?...the machine looks totally original with lots of dust and cobwebs!

Thanks,
Sean
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1645.JPG
    IMG_1645.JPG
    382.7 KB · Views: 18
  • IMG_1646.JPG
    IMG_1646.JPG
    308.5 KB · Views: 17
  • IMG_1649.JPG
    IMG_1649.JPG
    506.3 KB · Views: 17
Nintendo games have inverted video output and the Sanyo monitors are themselves inverted, so the image comes out normal. what that means is when the game isn't running it won't be a black screen, it will be a white screen.

my theory is yours looks green because the white balance is probably entirely screwed up and most importantly, the game isn't running. I would start by cleaning it out first, probably a combination of shop vac and air compressor something. if you have a multimeter and alligator clips you can test voltages at the board at the voltage filter caps.
 
Monitor appears to be working. This is a PCB to monitor signal issue.
Yup, definitely a pcb issue here. You should hear like a boing sound when you turn on a donkey Kong then nothing until you start a game. Your monitor is definitely way out of adjustment, look up some videos on YouTube there's several on 20ezs. On the pcb you're going to have to find someone to repair it more than likely if you don't have game pcb repair skills. Check your power supply, check if you're getting 5v and -5v.

You should cap it just because I've never seen a Sanyo without at least one leaking capacitor. You should also disassemble the power supply and cap it and reflow the headers and big resistors. I like pp7bs they're pretty reliable when you reflow them, they also don't fail and dump 6v+ on the 5v line. If this is out of your skill level look for a skilled member who can perform this if you want your machine to be reliable for you.
 
Yup, definitely a pcb issue here. You should hear like a boing sound when you turn on a donkey Kong then nothing until you start a game. Your monitor is definitely way out of adjustment, look up some videos on YouTube there's several on 20ezs. On the pcb you're going to have to find someone to repair it more than likely if you don't have game pcb repair skills. Check your power supply, check if you're getting 5v and -5v.

You should cap it just because I've never seen a Sanyo without at least one leaking capacitor. You should also disassemble the power supply and cap it and reflow the headers and big resistors. I like pp7bs they're pretty reliable when you reflow them, they also don't fail and dump 6v+ on the 5v line. If this is out of your skill level look for a skilled member who can perform this if you want your machine to be reliable for you.
those power supplies are an endeavor to take apart to work on. I regret pushing for people using Arcadeshop kits for years, because that is in fact wrong. lol

Nintendo games are particular about -5V, Happ PowerPro can't get "enough" -5V for these to operate reliably. my Red Tent years ago didn't work, the power supply did wind up needing to be resoldered. I forget what that had, PP1200? it's different from what Donkey Kong has but they'll have the same problems. I endorse cap replacement but like I said, a challenge to get apart. I color code the screws and bolts so they don't get mixed up later.
 
Nintendo games have inverted video output and the Sanyo monitors are themselves inverted, so the image comes out normal. what that means is when the game isn't running it won't be a black screen, it will be a white screen.

my theory is yours looks green because the white balance is probably entirely screwed up and most importantly, the game isn't running. I would start by cleaning it out first, probably a combination of shop vac and air compressor something. if you have a multimeter and alligator clips you can test voltages at the board at the voltage filter caps.
Thanks- the game is defiantly running..hard to see in picture…coin up and see kong going up ladder etc
 
Yup, definitely a pcb issue here. You should hear like a boing sound when you turn on a donkey Kong then nothing until you start a game. Your monitor is definitely way out of adjustment, look up some videos on YouTube there's several on 20ezs. On the pcb you're going to have to find someone to repair it more than likely if you don't have game pcb repair skills. Check your power supply, check if you're getting 5v and -5v.

You should cap it just because I've never seen a Sanyo without at least one leaking capacitor. You should also disassemble the power supply and cap it and reflow the headers and big resistors. I like pp7bs they're pretty reliable when you reflow them, they also don't fail and dump 6v+ on the 5v line. If this is out of your skill level look for a skilled member who can perform this if you want your machine to be reliable for you.
Thanks- the game is defiantly running..hard to see in picture…coin up and see kong going up ladder etc.

Ill start with cap kits ..i have done on several other monitors
 
those power supplies are an endeavor to take apart to work on. I regret pushing for people using Arcadeshop kits for years, because that is in fact wrong. lol

Nintendo games are particular about -5V, Happ PowerPro can't get "enough" -5V for these to operate reliably. my Red Tent years ago didn't work, the power supply did wind up needing to be resoldered. I forget what that had, PP1200? it's different from what Donkey Kong has but they'll have the same problems. I endorse cap replacement but like I said, a challenge to get apart. I color code the screws and bolts so they don't get mixed up later.
The problem with the replacements as well is if you're not using a happ power pro or Peter Chou you're risking your game pcb and maybe the cabinet. All Chinese switchers fail and dump 6v+ on the 5v line and really just fry's your pcb bad or they sometimes rarely light on fire. I've seen very mixed results on the replacements some say it just works fine and other report graphic shimmers and issues with donkey Kong.

Pp7b was a beast to take apart the first time I ever worked on one but after a few times I learned some things that make getting in there easier. First thing is use a stubby screw driver with a fat head that fits in the screws wells, prevents stripping. Next tip is use penetrating oil on all the screws before you start on it. When I do that they come apart within 5 minutes. Nintendo made a pretty kickass power supply with the pp7b it's really incredible for the time. I've never worked on a pp1200 but yeah I've seen they're really nice as well. Just be sure to reflow every header, large component, and cap them and they'll serve you well.
 
Thanks- the game is defiantly running..hard to see in picture…coin up and see kong going up ladder etc.

Ill start with cap kits ..i have done on several other monitors
Yeah usually if a Sanyo is running but it looks like crap a cap kit will get it sorted. Reflow the video input header. I'm still leaning toward the fact you may have game pcb issues, it's faint on the monitor but it doesn't look right shouldn't have all those 0's up top. Get the monitor sorted first then worry about the pcb, sanyos are very beginner friendly in my opinion to cap. Board is extremely well labeled
 
Nintendo games have inverted video output and the Sanyo monitors are themselves inverted, so the image comes out normal. what that means is when the game isn't running it won't be a black screen, it will be a white screen.

my theory is yours looks green because the white balance is probably entirely screwed up and most importantly, the game isn't running. I would start by cleaning it out first, probably a combination of shop vac and air compressor something. if you have a multimeter and alligator clips you can test voltages at the board at the voltage filter caps.
After tweaking you can see the game running more…i have ordered cap kits for monitor, power and pcb..and will make a start with that. Flyback fully turned down as is the other brightness pot…
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1688.jpeg
    IMG_1688.jpeg
    434.8 KB · Views: 16
After tweaking you can see the game running more…i have ordered cap kits for monitor, power and pcb..and will make a start with that. Flyback fully turned down as is the other brightness pot…
Yeah you've got some bad capacitors for sure on the monitor. Sanyo used sanyo branded capacitors and usually those ones are the leaky ones. Don't cap the donkey kong pcb. The capacitors on the game pcb are redundant filters and usually never fail and if they did they usually won't do anything. Plus if you rip up a trace on the game pcb you'll be sorry, the traces are more prone to lifting on game pcb.
 

Here's another tip since I know you're new, use leaded solder. Not lead free. All the solder on these old machines is leaded anyways so you're not avoiding lead by using lead free solder, the lead free solder will prematurely fail on headers if you reflow them. If you're going to cap and reflow the power supply you may as well use good solder and do it once. I've been using the same spool for like 15 years just now I'm noticing it's low and will need to be replaced. Kester is the best stuff by far.
 

Here's another tip since I know you're new, use leaded solder. Not lead free. All the solder on these old machines is leaded anyways so you're not avoiding lead by using lead free solder, the lead free solder will prematurely fail on headers if you reflow them. If you're going to cap and reflow the power supply you may as well use good solder and do it once. I've been using the same spool for like 15 years just now I'm noticing it's low and will need to be replaced. Kester is the best stuff by far.
Will do thanks
 
Yeah the only other hard part is the sync adjustment is in the middle of the monitor board in a very hard place to get to.

You need to have something non-conductive to reach it, very carefully, while also having some way to view the screen that is facing opposite of you.

Use a friend or a mirror, or both.
 
Yeah the only other hard part is the sync adjustment is in the middle of the monitor board in a very hard place to get to.

You need to have something non-conductive to reach it, very carefully, while also having some way to view the screen that is facing opposite of you.

Use a friend or a mirror, or both.
I shut the game off temporarily make my adjustment and turn it on for the sub brightness and hold on the center of the chassis for sanyos. Takes way longer to do it that way. Probably overkill but if you read threads like Phet recently with his k7200 I like to be extremely cautious.

 
Yeah you've got some bad capacitors for sure on the monitor. Sanyo used sanyo branded capacitors and usually those ones are the leaky ones. Don't cap the donkey kong pcb. The capacitors on the game pcb are redundant filters and usually never fail and if they did they usually won't do anything. Plus if you rip up a trace on the game pcb you'll be sorry, the traces are more prone to lifting on game pcb.
I have now removed the chassis and the flyback has the black gunk on top...I guess I need to replace this also!.....and the sound board with gunk coming from caps may explain why I have no sound (just clicks)
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1708 2.JPG
    IMG_1708 2.JPG
    367.4 KB · Views: 20
  • IMG_1705.JPG
    IMG_1705.JPG
    420 KB · Views: 20
Back
Top Bottom