Sanyo-20EZ DK Monitor. End of my rope.

DeLoreanRide

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I' dont know if this monitor is hopeless or what.

Anything that I know of to replace has been replaced:
HOT
Q901 and IC601 twice
Full cap kit
Filter cap
Audio cap kit with transistors
All adjustment Pots
Flyback Transformer

And I'm not getting anything. Granted this IS the monitor that previously, I plugged into the wall not knowing that it had to be plugged into the bottom of the game. After that I replaced the IC601 and Q901 again.

I'm at 100 B+ volts that will not change with the turning of the B+ pot.

There is nothing at all on the screen however I am getting high voltage. There is neck glow but there is no static electricity on the front of the monitor. Any ideas at all?
 
Yes, screen control is the lower pot on the fly. Also have you checked your sub brightness (close to center of the chassis) and brightness pot on the remote board? Are you sure your vid signal and related connections are good? With no vid signal, a Sanyo should be displaying a white screen. Unplug the small vid cable going into the chassis and retest.
 
I have turned up all the pots and made some adjustments and heres what I'm able to get:

1.jpg

2.jpg


It's very blue. It's about the only color I can get. No matter how I adjust the bias's on the neck board the color doesnt change.

With no signal from the board I get this:
4.jpg


The B+ voltage is shown on the volt meter in each photo. Still pegged right around 100 volts. No change from the B+ pot.

Also anyone have any idea what this is:
5.jpg


This happens when I turn the monitor off. Regardless of whether the monitor had a signal from the board or not this shows up on the screen after it's powered down. It's kind of weird and somewhat creepy. It sticks around for a short while. Anyone? Thanks!
 
Things I would check, neck board ground, broken color pots Red/green. Bad header pin solder joints. Are you using an inverter? If so disconnect it and plug the cable directly into the chassis. Your B+ should be 108VDC which I'm sure you know. But low B+ will cause all sorts of weird problems. Recheck your solder joints in the B+ section. Is the B+ pot good?
 
Yea, all the adjustment pots and the b+ pot were just replaced by ones from bob roberts.

If after that you're still serious about getting it fixed I'd just send it to Chad at Arcadecup.com. Avoid any further headaches and just do it. With everything you'ver already done it would probably only cost around $80 to get it up and running.
Contact him and let him know what you've already done and could probably give you a quote. I've sent 2 monitors (including an EZ20) to him and both came back fixed and working.
At this point it looks like it's your best bet.

Good luck,
ERIC
 
I have emailed him. Ugh, I hate throwing in the towel like this. Especially since its probably one simple thing I have neglected to check.
 
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I have emailed him. Ugh, I hate throwing in the towel like this. Especially since its probably one simple thing I have neglected to check.

I know, I feel the same way...but when it gets to the point where all I'm doing is throwing money at what I think might be the problem I figure I might as well just have it done right and never worry about ti again.
Chad's pretty awesome at this. As I said I've had him fix 2 monitors for me already and I've been more than satistfied with his work.
If you have any concerns just call him, his number's on his website. That's what I did the first time because I wasn't sure what to send him and I wanted to let him know I had already done a few things (like cap kits) so he wouldn't do another one.

Check him out he's a good dude; http://www.arcadecup.com

Good luck, ERIC
 
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Hello, there really isn't much for the color drive circuitry so figuring out that should be much of a problem. I hardly see color problems with these so not going to start suggesting.
For semiconductors, looks like each color drive uses 3 transistors and some diodes. I would assume semi's. Are you getting that blue filled screen with a game signal attached or is that powering up only? If it's with a game board then your game board is likely at fault... As for the 100vdc that is enough to give you a clean image without problems... For the creepy ring, not sure but I am guessing an open might be on one of the electron gun paths back to the chassis. / neck socket. Your symptoms are certainly not common... if you hit a dead end, I'll gladly take care of it for you. Yes, I will be merciful on the repair price since you have some work put into it...
Best wishes!,

Chad
 
Thanks, I appreciate it.

The screen is blue with no game board attached. I suppose I'll look into those transistors on the neck board. Fixing this game is on hold at the moment as I'm moving all my games this weekend.
 
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