Sanyo 20 EZV - DK jr

Robotron Jon

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I just recapped this monitor with a Bob Roberts Deluxe kit.

It played for maybe 2-3 hours after that but in the middle of a game the monitor went out.

I tested the power wire that goes into the board and it's at 120v at the chassis, so juice is coming in. I did replace the fuse next to it but it made no difference. I checked the fuse holder's continuity and it was good. But there is no voltage going through it. I also reflowed solder at various places in the chassis just to make sure nothing was cold.

Any ideas?
 
No voltage on the other side of the fuse = blown fuse. Replace the fuse and try it again.

After completing your cap kit, did you remember to verify the B+ voltage was at 108vdc?
 
I already replaced the fuse - nothing.

I did not check b+ after the cap kit because the pic looked perfect and I assumed it was okay.
 
I tested the power wire that goes into the board and it's at 120v at the chassis, so juice is coming in.

Any ideas?

Can't believe Dave missed it. :rolleyes: ;)

If you're reading 120vac at the monitor power connector then that might be why the monitor went out. the Sanyo 20EZ required for the Donkey Kong Junior runs on 100vac, not 120vac...
 
Hmmm. I guess I'll have to plug it into the outlet in the cabinet and see what happens.

I took it out to replace the voltage regulator and to reflow solder at some connections that looked cold.

I'll report back.

Thanks for the help everyone.
 
I tested it in a wall outlet. It didn't work. Maybe that was a good thing...

I put the monitor back in the DK jr cabinet and plugged it in to the outlet on the DK jr. No dice, it's still dead.

I have a DK next to it, I opened the back door and put the plug from the DK jr monitor into the outlet in the DK. Still doesn't work.

Hmm...must still be something in that monitor chassis. If the flyback goes out is the entire chassis dead? What else could be replaced?
 
I think you need to check your voltage regulator (if you plugged it into the wall after replacing it), your current limiter, and your rectifying diodes first....
 
I tested it in a wall outlet. It didn't work. Maybe that was a good thing...

You plugged it into a wall outlet? Well, there's your problem... You can't run an arcade monitor without an isolation transformer, and you can't run a Sanyo without a proper 100v isolation transformer.

-Ian
 
You plugged it into a wall outlet? Well, there's your problem... You can't run older arcade monitors without an isolation transformer, and you can't run a Sanyo without a proper 100v isolation transformer.

-Ian

Adjusted....
 
Adjusted....

Hehe. Good point. I always forget about that. I've yet to run across a monitor that *doesn't* need an isolation transformer though - but I don't have any arcade monitors that aren't at least 15 years old... Newest monitor I ever worked with was a Pentranic made in '01 - and even that needed an isolation transformer.

But yes, I know that the Vision Pro's don't need isolation, and I'm sure there are several others.

-Ian
 
Where are is the current limiter, and rectifying diodes? Are they before the first fuse holder?
 
Current Limiter - Q901
Rectifying Diodes - D601, D602, D603, D604
Voltage Regulator - IC601
 
It was the flyback, it was dead. Replaced and now it's working.

Thanks for everyone's input.

NEXT!
 
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