Sanyo 20-EZ

andyt77

New member
Joined
Aug 26, 2009
Messages
6
Reaction score
0
Location
Tennessee
Help!
I inherited a beat up "Double Donkey Kong" cabinet.
Powered it up, and nothing.
Opened it, and the first thing I noticed was a red wire hanging, I could see where it had been soldered and come off. I reconnected it temporarily, and powered it back on, and of course, I got some sounds, but still just wavy lines on the screen.
The previous owner told me it needed a cap kit.
I ordered one from Bob Roberts, received it today, and performed it tonight.
Now obviously I do not understand whats going on with this monitor.
Someones torn it apart before.
There appears to be no flyback cage, or inverter board???
There is a flyback. I think the game is hooked directly to the monitor.
I am so confused by this thing.
The monitor will power on and stay on indefinitely if the game is not plugged into it, but if it is, it will power down after a few seconds.

The audio board is in perfect condition.
The caps were easy to replace, as were the transistors.
If I leave the game/monitor cable off, the sounds will play, so the game is working.

So I have the main monitor board.
I have the monitor sitting in front of me, in the vertical position.
Flyback is on the right.
To the left are 3 things, the audio board, another thing (I dont know what this is, transformer?), and then the little board with all the adjustment knobs.
Screwed down to the right of the main board is a metal bracket with something on it that has 3 cables soldered to it. Theres also a black piece with 2 knobs on it thats just hanging there. Thats all I've got.
This game (supposedly) was working.
I have everything out of the cabinet, plugged into the nintendo power supply.
I have the audio cable going from audio board to dk board, as well as the video cable.
Game is being powered by 9p connector off ps.
Monitor plugged into outlet box on ps.

Any ideas whats going on here?
The main circuit board was pretty rough looking, as in a couple corners had been broken, but it did not appear as if any components were affected.
 
Show us some pics of the right side, and how the video connector is connecting...
 
That's an aftermarket flyback that has been put on it. The thing hanging off is the screen (main brightness) and focus adjustment for the fly. Also, the monitor should not have any wires coming from the PS unless your talking about the 100V line (looks like a regular 120V cord) The transformer is for the audio and the other board with pots is the remote board (to make adjustments) Volume, brightness, Horiz size, vert hold, and I can't remember the last one off of the top of my head.
 
Oh and by the way, I wouldn't be powering that thing up with that plate with the HOT (H.orizontal, O.utput, T.ransistor) on it hangin there like that. Try mounting it on there better, the fly adjustment pots as well. That just makes me nervous.
 
Ahhh,thanks, that clears up some things.
So the HOT is whats on that metal bracket.
Its actully screwed down pretty tight, but I'll see what I can do about it.
How is it normally mounted?

I did not mean to be confusing, the monitors power cable is a standard looking plug going into an outlet box on the ps. On everyone elses I see the inverter board being plugged up between the game and the monitor, (I think).
Even so, I should get something on screen as opposed to it just shutting off.
I am fairly positive I did the cap kit correctly. No popping, no smoke, I powered the monitor up by itself first.
 
Ahhh,thanks, that clears up some things.
So the HOT is whats on that metal bracket.
Its actully screwed down pretty tight, but I'll see what I can do about it.
How is it normally mounted?

I did not mean to be confusing, the monitors power cable is a standard looking plug going into an outlet box on the ps. On everyone elses I see the inverter board being plugged up between the game and the monitor, (I think).
Even so, I should get something on screen as opposed to it just shutting off.
I am fairly positive I did the cap kit correctly. No popping, no smoke, I powered the monitor up by itself first.


The HOT is secured to the bracket but the bracket itself is what I was talking about. You can see on the corner of the chassis that there is a screw hole. That plate also has a screw hole, that is how it's supposed to be mounted. Given the fact your Fly is an aftermarket it may need to be modified to fit. Also, just FYI, the outlet your referring to is just that, it is an isolated 100VAC outlet (for the monitor and the marquee fixture) the "gold brick" would actually be considered the PS. Not being arrogant just for your further reference
 
Also, to answer your question, You don't need an inverter board to run any Nintendo board on a Sanyo Monitor. (unless it's had the inversion components added to it) Which I doubt.
 
I am having the exact same problem in my Donkey Kong Junior. my monitor has a full cap kit, new HOT, new after market flyback.

My monitor will maybe play for 5-10 sec with the video cable attached and then i loose HV to the tube. I unplug the video cable and it goes forever showing raster on the tube.

Could this be our video cables are damaged? or is there a part of the main chasis that is fried that would cause this issue?

More info that may help after i installed my hot and fly i messed up the plugs on the audio board and fried my DJjr PCB, after i got a replacement it now behaves this way.
 
Last edited:
Okay I did some more playing around and when I disconnect the video cable from the monitor I get no raster. When I disconnect the video cable from the game PCB i get raster...weird. Seems it prefers having a video cable attached, does this give anyone an idea? Op do you experience this the same way as me?
 
Things you should check.
Cold solder joints on your flyback and really anywhere else on the chassis.
Connections, plugs and wires,
Flyback itself for arcing and other weird behavior.
and last but not least B+ voltage. It should be 108VDC test points are BJ/TP91 (Pos lead)
to chassis (Neg lead)
If you notice fluctuation in your B+ it could be the B+ adjust pot, C606 B+ filter or a bad regulator IC601
 
Things you should check.
Cold solder joints on your flyback and really anywhere else on the chassis.
Connections, plugs and wires,
Flyback itself for arcing and other weird behavior.
and last but not least B+ voltage. It should be 108VDC test points are BJ/TP91 (Pos lead)
to chassis (Neg lead)
If you notice fluctuation in your B+ it could be the B+ adjust pot, C606 B+ filter or a bad regulator IC601

I double checked the HOT and flyback where installed right, no cold solder joints found yet.

I had adjusted the B+ to be like 107.xx it was at 110. When i tested the b+ it was bouncing around a decent amount (+-0.4v) should it be normally a stable number?

Where would the regulator live on the board and does bob carry them. looks like i will have to make an order soon.
 
Ok, so now mine just loses HV after a couple seconds every time I power it up, regardless of whats plugged in where, so clearly an issue with the display still.
Allright, I measured my B+ voltage at the test point, grounded to the chassis.
It was a steady 138. My multimeter just has the 200 range, nothing closer.
I take it this is not good....it should be 108?
This is adjustable right? Or is this indicative of another component needing replacement?
Whats the procedure for testing the HOT?
All the solder joints looked fine when I had the board out, and I think the flyback is ok...
 
Sounds like you are going into over-voltage shutdown. Turn the B+ pot down and get it as close in to 108vdc as you can. It should then stay on for you.
 
Powered down, unplugged, and adjusted the pot with a screwdriver because it had paint on it and was stuck, I couldnt turn it with anything plastic I had.
Turned it back on and it seemed ok, but was reading around 100.
I tried adjusting the pot live with a little piece of plastic I had but I simply could not turn it.
I very carefully put a small screwdriver in it and the second it touched it the voltage shot up to 135.2. So I powered down, unplugged it, and reset the pot to its original position.
135.2
Turned it, 135.2
No matter where I set it I just get 135.2.
Bad pot?
Did I screw it up with the screwdriver?
First arcade monitor for me, first cabinet, first cap kit, but hey everyone starts somewhere.
I just hope this thing is salvageable.
 
Powered down, unplugged, and adjusted the pot with a screwdriver because it had paint on it and was stuck, I couldnt turn it with anything plastic I had.
Turned it back on and it seemed ok, but was reading around 100.
I tried adjusting the pot live with a little piece of plastic I had but I simply could not turn it.
I very carefully put a small screwdriver in it and the second it touched it the voltage shot up to 135.2. So I powered down, unplugged it, and reset the pot to its original position.
135.2
Turned it, 135.2
No matter where I set it I just get 135.2.
Bad pot?
Did I screw it up with the screwdriver?
First arcade monitor for me, first cabinet, first cap kit, but hey everyone starts somewhere.
I just hope this thing is salvageable.


That "paint" is there to keep the pot from shifting or moving. I would try (with the power off) noting the position of the pot turn the pot side to side several times in an effort to "clean" the wiper. Then return it to it's old position and check it again. Those pots can be extremely touchy. If that doesn't solve your problem you may have a bad pot but I'd check into the B+ filter cap C606. It's a 470uF 160V cap. (the big black one next to the heat sink)
 
Thanks for all the help.
As long as I'm in there replacing things again, any recommendations?
I am planning to replace at least the filter cap as you suggested, probably the pot too.
 
The pot is your problem, as evidenced by you turning it down and everything was fine. Replace the pot.

They are meant to be adjusted while on, with a screwdriver.
 
Back
Top Bottom