Sanyo 14" no neck glow

Atari The Jedi

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Let me say I did the basics first. I replaced the B+ potentiometer, HOT, I also recapped it while I was at it, and found two bad capacitors I also replaced the 601 IC in charge of the high voltage. Before I replace it I was getting about 131 volts. Now that I've replaced it I'm getting anywhere from 0 to 4 volts, mostly closer to zero. I guess my next step is to test components that are connected to the IC pins? I mean I could go ahead and change the fly back but what are the chances that the IC and then the flyback go out at the same time? Anyways not sure exactly what to do as I'm getting ready to go off the beaten path and start shotgunning. And yes I've used the flowchart for the Sanyo 20ez
 
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Let me say I did the basics first I replaced the B+ potentiometer, I also recapped it while I was at it and found two bad capacitors I also replaced the IC in charge of the high voltage. Before I replace it I was getting about 131 volts. Now that I've replaced it I'm getting anywhere from 0 to 4 volts closer to zero. I guess my next step is to test components that are connected to the IC pins? I mean I could go ahead and change the fly back but what are the chances that the IC and then the flyback go out at the same time? Anyways not sure exactly what to do as I'm getting ready to go off the beaten path and start shotgunning. And yes I've used the flowchart for the Sanyo 20ez
Who did you get your parts from? If APAR, that's a good thing. I just did one of these last week in my Warlords cocktail. I didn't replace the voltage regulator…just the HOT. If I was doing it, I'd go over solder reflow again and maybe try a HOT and another voltage regulator if you have one.

Jason
 
Who did you get your parts from? If APAR, that's a good thing. I just did one of these last week in my Warlords cocktail. I didn't replace the voltage regulator…just the HOT. If I was doing it, I'd go over solder reflow again and maybe try a HOT and another voltage regulator if you have one.

Jason
Yeah I got my stuff from Peter and OES I forgot I did the HOT as well. Which is partially why I'm thoroughly confused now
 
If you put your old old components back in, do you still measure B+ at 131 volts? This should be adjusted to 105 volts. That might be a good way to isolate it is to go back to square one and try one component at a time. Was your IC installed in a socket? I've heard this can create issues.

A few things that will hopefully help.

Jason
 
You have been trying one thing at a time here I'm going to have to replace that IC again with the old one see what happens if anything. It's not on a socket it goes directly into the board. That's all I can do is just go back over my work again before I make another step.
 
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