ajvuik
New member
Hello all,
I hope anyone can help me with my next problem. 3 years ago I had to move house and I had no room for this upright cabinet so I put it into storage.(Dry, but not heated) Now I have a bigger house so I decided to pull it out of storage. It was working 100% when I stored it, now the 1st time the board would boot up, but freeze at the language selection. But it shouldn't go into language selection unless the service key is activated.
So I disconnected the PCB and found that the connections where corroded, so I cleaned them carefully with a piece of very fine grain sand paper (240) and dusted it off with a dry, non conducting, paper cloth.
Now the machine would boot, but as soon as the 'insert coin' screen apeared, the game would freeze, even though it would register if a coin was inserted(Coin counter added up and the extra credit would apear after a reboot)
This was an improvement, so I decided to clean the connections on the inside of the connectors to, which I had forgotten to clean the 1st time around.
But to my dismay, this only made things worse. The machine now only gives a white screen and nothing more. All leds(6 or 7, don't know exactly, will check when I get home from work) stay off, unless I press the (I presume is) the reset button located on the 2nd PCB board. Then the 1st led flashes 4 times while different other leds flash in different order to all burning after about 4 seconds. The screen flashes as if it is beeing reset, but still ends up all white.
I have searched the web and found Qix on this site, but it seems like royal video has lincensed the game or something, because the manual on this site showed a 3 PCB version from Taito, while mine only has 2 PCB's with only MTD-18, which seems to be the I/O and main proc. board driven by a 7,8MHZ cristal on the 1st PCB and a 2nd board, with what I think is the video board, has MTD-19(n etched on the board and MTD-19s on a sticker) on it and is driven by a 19,8MHZ cristal. And although the cabinet itself is JAMMA, the PCB's are not, the JAMMA connector is divided into 2 connectors. 1, with the I/O and video wired on it, slides onto the MTD-18 board and the other, with 0, 5 and 12V wired on it, slides onto the MTD-19(n/s) board.
The MTD-18 board has 9 E-proms on it numbered Q1-Q9 and has 2 Motorola 68XXX CPU's on it and the MTD-19 board has 1 Motorola 68XXX CPU on it and a bunch other small chips. I haven't checked if this is discrete electronics or memory(I guess the latter). Both PCB's are connected via 2 flatcables, don't know how many leads, but they looked like the size of a standard IDE cable, again, will check when I get home.
I also haven't checked the battery, accept for the fact that it isn't leaking, but will put my meter on the darn thing, when I get home!
I hope I make any sense and the someone can help me find a solution to this problem.
I have a decent/novice knowledge about electronics and am 'ok' with a welding iron. I have access to a true RMS multimeter, a 50MHZ oscilloscope and a UV E-PROM eraser and am cappable of building my own GANG programmer if the need arises
I will post pictures of the cabinet and the PCB's !when I get home!!!
Thanks in advance for any help.
Regards,
Arjan.
+edit+
My PCB's look like this: http://www.pin-games.se/arcade/Picture/2731.jpg
I hope anyone can help me with my next problem. 3 years ago I had to move house and I had no room for this upright cabinet so I put it into storage.(Dry, but not heated) Now I have a bigger house so I decided to pull it out of storage. It was working 100% when I stored it, now the 1st time the board would boot up, but freeze at the language selection. But it shouldn't go into language selection unless the service key is activated.
So I disconnected the PCB and found that the connections where corroded, so I cleaned them carefully with a piece of very fine grain sand paper (240) and dusted it off with a dry, non conducting, paper cloth.
Now the machine would boot, but as soon as the 'insert coin' screen apeared, the game would freeze, even though it would register if a coin was inserted(Coin counter added up and the extra credit would apear after a reboot)
This was an improvement, so I decided to clean the connections on the inside of the connectors to, which I had forgotten to clean the 1st time around.
But to my dismay, this only made things worse. The machine now only gives a white screen and nothing more. All leds(6 or 7, don't know exactly, will check when I get home from work) stay off, unless I press the (I presume is) the reset button located on the 2nd PCB board. Then the 1st led flashes 4 times while different other leds flash in different order to all burning after about 4 seconds. The screen flashes as if it is beeing reset, but still ends up all white.
I have searched the web and found Qix on this site, but it seems like royal video has lincensed the game or something, because the manual on this site showed a 3 PCB version from Taito, while mine only has 2 PCB's with only MTD-18, which seems to be the I/O and main proc. board driven by a 7,8MHZ cristal on the 1st PCB and a 2nd board, with what I think is the video board, has MTD-19(n etched on the board and MTD-19s on a sticker) on it and is driven by a 19,8MHZ cristal. And although the cabinet itself is JAMMA, the PCB's are not, the JAMMA connector is divided into 2 connectors. 1, with the I/O and video wired on it, slides onto the MTD-18 board and the other, with 0, 5 and 12V wired on it, slides onto the MTD-19(n/s) board.
The MTD-18 board has 9 E-proms on it numbered Q1-Q9 and has 2 Motorola 68XXX CPU's on it and the MTD-19 board has 1 Motorola 68XXX CPU on it and a bunch other small chips. I haven't checked if this is discrete electronics or memory(I guess the latter). Both PCB's are connected via 2 flatcables, don't know how many leads, but they looked like the size of a standard IDE cable, again, will check when I get home.
I also haven't checked the battery, accept for the fact that it isn't leaking, but will put my meter on the darn thing, when I get home!
I hope I make any sense and the someone can help me find a solution to this problem.
I have a decent/novice knowledge about electronics and am 'ok' with a welding iron. I have access to a true RMS multimeter, a 50MHZ oscilloscope and a UV E-PROM eraser and am cappable of building my own GANG programmer if the need arises
I will post pictures of the cabinet and the PCB's !when I get home!!!
Thanks in advance for any help.
Regards,
Arjan.
+edit+
My PCB's look like this: http://www.pin-games.se/arcade/Picture/2731.jpg
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