Rowe Images..

foxtrot_xray

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Hey guys -
Was wondering if anyone knew of - or kept track of - the different EPROM images for some of the later Rowe machines.

I have one in my BC3500 board that's labeled as accepting the new $5s/DoubleDump (but it doesn't seem to accept them, but that's a different issue) - was wondering if there was a copy of the $5/FastPay one out there to upgrade my control computer.

-Mike
 
As long as you have the latest update kit, you can drop a Fast Pay ROM into the daughterboard. Sounds like JD might have a chip handy to image for you. Keep in mind that you should not run Fast Pay without the proper power supply board installed. Probably not a huge deal if this is home use, but it's still a risk, especially if your hopper chain channels are not clean and not delivering consistent coins from all three.

I think the rev 3 supply is the one that has the extra sand resistor remote-mounted off the PSU that limits current to the bucket solenoid as it is being held open for extended periods. Running Fast Pay on older PSUs can burn up bucket solenoids - it's why most people never updated to Fast Pay - they're >$300 from Rowe.

I think the only major difference between the older rev of the supply is just a big resistor hacked in series on the bucket power rail, so it shouldn't be tough to roll your own for a few bucks.
 
Yeah, I've been in touch with JD, waiting to hear back from him.

I'm not sure what the story is behind my unit here - the power supply does have the resistor, BUT, it looks like it's home-made, as it sure as hell ain't factory. My controller board has a daughterboard with an updated ROM on it (see here: https://imgur.com/a/m8rFM) BUT, apparently it's not the fast-pay version. So I'm guessing before i got the parts machine, someone else had tried switching out stuff in it.
 
Hey guys -
Not sure if I should start a new thread or not.

Plugged in the original power supply today. This supply had the resistor 'hacked' into it by the previous operator.

All he did was remove the on-board R813 and wire-in a 50ohm, 55W resistor. (This thing is HUGE!)

Interestingly, this resistor cuts power too much - the coils do not have enough power to open the buckets.

Wrong coils in the buckets? Or did something else need to be done with the power supply?
 
Are the coils trying to energize ?

I don't have an online schematic for the -01 power supply
board but I always used a 47 Ohm 30 Watt resistor on them.

I use these nice little resistors in TO-220 cases. A little heat sink
compound and mount to the chassis.

JD
 
Yeah, they're trying -
If I 'help' them with my finger, they will hold open.

I believe there's something else with the power supply, IMHO. I *may* have a copy of the earlier schematics, and if I can find them, I'll take a closer look.

The reason I believe it's the power supply is that the +40v LED on the power supply, when the coil is getting power, will dim CONSIDERABLY. So there may be a draw of power to ground that shouldn't be happening.
 
If the resistor value is too high (or power supply has another
problem) you will get that LED dimming like that.

JD

Yeah, they're trying -
If I 'help' them with my finger, they will hold open.

I believe there's something else with the power supply, IMHO. I *may* have a copy of the earlier schematics, and if I can find them, I'll take a closer look.

The reason I believe it's the power supply is that the +40v LED on the power supply, when the coil is getting power, will dim CONSIDERABLY. So there may be a draw of power to ground that shouldn't be happening.
 
Okay, yup.
Did a little 'textbook' (read: schematic) studying last night and this morning.

Other than a misprint in my manual with the ref ID of a capacitor, the circuits are the same. I seem to be missing a link (mentally, or in my PDF) of how the "Current Sense" works on the CCC - however assuming that I'm not missing a page, and that section is accurate, I'm thinking that the resistor, or the guy's wiring job is bad, and the resistor is open. This forces the current to the coils to go through the 'Current Sense' circuit, which is about 26k ohmage. The LED dimming makes sense, as that much resistance is dropping the voltage on the trailing edge of the (open) large power resistor because of all the high-value resistors in the Current Sense circuit.

When I had this power supply out, I never checked the resistor - the darn thing could be blown. D'oh.
 
Well, I'm just going to lower my resistor value.

Took the power supply apart, and went through almost everything. I repinned the incoming feed for the 30 and 40volts, since the plugs appears to have smoke damage on it (not overheating, just smoke..) So something happened to this thing in it's previous life.

I replaced the plug, check traces and continuity. Everything checked out A-Ok. Plug on the metal chassis of the power supply was perfect as well - no appearance of a bad connection, no increased resistance.

So I ordered a 25ohm resistor, and when I put it in I will measure current, see how much is going through it and if it's enough to cause the bucket coils to open up.

Strangely, this machine has had other work done to it - the bucket coils were plugged into the wrong plugs on the interconnect board, and all of the headers on the power board have been re-flowed.
 
Just updting, in case anyone else ever runs into this issue..

Finally, 10ohm resistor was low enough to let enough current through to allow the coils to reliably pull open the buckets.
However - it has to be a 55W or higher. You MAY get away with less, but I wouldn't risk it.
 
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