Route 66 crane

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I exorcised the demons out of this Route 666. I got it fully operating and stable after about 6 different fixes. Now let's hope it lasts 6 more years on location. It's now in service at one of my pizza place locations. This is crane #18 (6+6+6) for me.
 
I fixed the prize sensor board. I did a few things but ultimately I believe the fix was to replace the IR LEDs with new ones. I used the same ones I use for my LAI Stacker prize sensors. I guess it just needs an IR signal, it doesn't necessarily need to be exactly the same LED that they used originally? Or they just happened to use the same value ones as LAI?

I also reflowed some things, checked the pot, replaced the capacitors, and fixed one broken trace. I replaced the capacitors with higher voltage ones I had on hand, and then I couldn't get it back into the case, but I wanted to test it to see if that fixed the problem I was seeing. I saw no change so I put the original capacitor back in so that it would fit in the case. When I removed the 470uf cap the second time it lifted the pad/trace. So that's why I had to redo a trace... I also tested the little darlington transistor array. I thought the bigger transistor was bad, but when I looked up the datasheet the base was pin 3, instead of pin 2 like I was expecting.

Once I had the prize sensor back in the machine I noticed that it was needing a slight alignment for better results. I put a nut under the bottom 2 screws to raise the bottom up a little and point it downwards a few degrees.

Now I think I have everything working, but if I set the voltages too high for the claw it will occasionally fail and reset. Or just die. I am guessing that the power supply is failing, but not quite dead. Perhaps it needs a recap? Or I might just buy a new one and call it a day?
Semi related I used the LD-274 IR LEDs to fix my dynamo air hockey table tonight. It needed new IR LEDs as well, and I didn't know what the original spec were. I saw in another thread someone suggested Radio Shack 276-143. I looked those up and their peak wavelength is 940nm. The LD-274 is 950 nm. Of course they're going to output a spectrum, not just the one wavelength. Nonetheless they were good enough for the IR receivers in the score sensor pcb to detect. The old ones were emitting, but weak. I think 940nm is kind of a standard for IR stuff, and unless there's a reason to deviate it's safe to assume everything will work with it. IR is outside human's visible spectrum, but often times they will emit some visible wavelengths or at least something that a camera on your phone will detect. I will use a picture or even just the viewfinder to see if there's any light shining while the sensor PCB is powered. It turns out these LEDs are on the whole time whether you're in a game or not. No wonder they burn out.

Original
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Replaced
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my route 66 crane went down... the solenoid cable got disconnected and i'm guessing it shorted out because the fuse on the pcb was blown. I put it back together, but it still is having another problem. Now when I go to the setup claw voltage it no longer responds to the potentiometers. It's always at around 48v, which must mean it's maxed out? I left it running like this but I need to look into the board to see what is causing it.

And that air hockey I fixed is having another issue now too.

when it rains it pours.
 
Can anyone else confirm what ohms their coil resistance is? Mine was around 20 ohms when I got it and still is the same now.

The voltage for the claw strength is no longer stuck at 48v, it's now dead flat. The claw is no longer closing. So I believe that the TIP162 is blown at this point. I am going to order a compatible replacement part and go from there.
 
I replaced the TIP162 with a BU941ZPFI. It's not the exact same ratings/values as the TIP162 but it's close. When I put the PCB back in the game and tried the claw out it was still at 0v. The light on the relay was coming on when it was supposed to be closing the claw. I swapped the coil relay with the left/right motor relay and then the claw voltage started working. I was able to adjust the 3 voltage regulators to 30v and the claw seemed to now work. However the left/right motor was now not working. So even though the light was coming on the secondary on the relay was not functioning.

The stock relays were socketed RU2S-C-D24. The D24 means it's rated for 24VDC. Actually 30, but I think it means you would use it with a 24v power supply? There's also a D48 variant with the same pinout that is rated to 48V DC. The coils are run anywhere from 20 to max of 48V, so I think it might make sense to replace them with the higher rated ones? I need to research it tonight a little more and then order. At least I'm pretty sure the main PCB is ok now and fixed. I just need to replace the relay that got burnt out to get it operating again.

edit: I'm thinking now the D24 means the control voltage is 24V? I guess I will just order the original part that was there. The engineers who designed the thing must have known what they were doing.
 
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I got in the new relays today. I got 2 even though I only needed 1. I replaced both the coil and the left/right motor relays with new ones. I noticed the silkscreen print on the top was slightly different than the original part but the insides looked the same? Probably just different years or batches or whatever? The pinouts were exactly the same and fit the sockets already on the board.

Anyways the crane is now back in service. The claw coil wire coming loose and shorting out took out the big darlington transistor on the main board, which then ended up burning out the relay. I replaced the transistor first and found the relay fault and then replaced that and it's back to 100%. I tested setting the voltage for the 3 claw strengths and it was working again. I also tied a knot on the coil wiring inside the claw body, hopefully keeping it from stressing the coil wires out and pulling out again?
 
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Complete noobie here I just got one of these that wasn't working and was able to figure out that it just needed a fuse replacement to get it working again! I am unsure how to adjust claw strength, it should be set on winner every time but the claw seems a bit weak. Any advice on where to start is much appreciated.
 
Complete noobie here I just got one of these that wasn't working and was able to figure out that it just needed a fuse replacement to get it working again! I am unsure how to adjust claw strength, it should be set on winner every time but the claw seems a bit weak. Any advice on where to start is much appreciated.
The play till you win setting is done through dip switches. Do you have the kind with 1 VR or 3? Take some pictures of your PCB or the volt meter? If you have the original roll down coin mechs they have a small switch on the back of them? you use those to go into the voltage adjust mode. DM me if you need more help.
 
The play till you win setting is done through dip switches. Do you have the kind with 1 VR or 3? Take some pictures of your PCB or the volt meter? If you have the original roll down coin mechs they have a small switch on the back of them? you use those to go into the voltage adjust mode. DM me if you need more help.
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I noticed I can change some claw settings with these knobs what would this part be called? Where they are set now it will win everytime with light objects but I am unsure how to adjust any settings without just blindly turning the knobs.

I was going to DM you but it wasn't letting me add pictures to the message. Thank you for the reply
 
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I noticed I can change some claw settings with these knobs what would this part be called? Where they are set now it will win everytime with light objects but I am unsure how to adjust any settings without just blindly turning the knobs.

I was going to DM you but it wasn't letting me add pictures to the message. Thank you for the reply
So you have the 3 VR style. One is for initial grab strength, two is rising claw strength, three is carry home strength. You can adjust them blindly or go into the setting mode with the switch on the coin mech.
 
Awesome that info and video are extremely helpful! Thank you for that... I've also noticed every once in a while the claw fully opens for a split second right before it gets to the top and makes its way home, would that be related to these voltage settings?
 
Awesome that info and video are extremely helpful! Thank you for that... I've also noticed every once in a while the claw fully opens for a split second right before it gets to the top and makes its way home, would that be related to these voltage settings?
I have the same problem with mine. Reading through forums to see if there are similar cases before I go through the machine since it is on location 2 hours away. In the past I have had issues with the wiring between the claw coil and the carriage; lots of flexing over the years broke the wire internally. I will ohm-out the coil at the carriage while flexing the cable to see if there are any intermittent opens. I that is good I plan on testing the second of the three VRs to rule that out.
If you got your repaired, I would love to know what the culprit was for you.
 
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