ROUND 2! Dynamo HS-2 Street Fighter II World Warrior Resto/Conv

So you painted panels purple and left the sides wood grain?

Hmmm....
 
Your use of the term "dirty" is almost humorous for those of us that have been around a while. :)

that's exactly what I was thinking. I pulled a 19K7000 out of a Double Dragon cab last week that was practically orange. gave it the simple green treatment though. :)

this project is jizz-worthy, btw. it's too bad I have too many cabs as it is (operating in a redemption arcade where they get little-to-zero play to begin with) otherwise I would've jumped all over a Dynamo cab in the past.

oh well.


So you painted panels purple and left the sides wood grain?

Hmmm....

? you mean where the T-molding goes?
 
Sorry illusion from something I was viewing it on. Now I see all of the black... opps.
 
LOL... I guess I'm just nit picky about dirty electronics, or anything in that matter, just doesn't seem right. If its on the cab itself or the inner electronics. I know that old CRT TV's are basically the same after years. But when I am able to open the back panel and can literally see and do something about the dirty muck, I just want to take action. I'll get a can of air spray the dirt the best I can. Since I am a novice at monitors, I can't see myself trying to do what you well seasoned guys would probably try.

The t-molding should be on the way soon. Going black with this one. I think I have enough purple on the machine. I did however want to get a purple coin eject button. Since I don't have a HAPP coin door, I don't think I can get a button in purple or yellow.

I also plan to make repo stickers for the dynamo, FBI warning and game lable for the back and front. Even thought of having a Aladdin's sticker on the coin door like they used to have BITD. Still plenty of work ahead, thanks for the comments.
 
Sorry illusion from something I was viewing it on. Now I see all of the black... opps.

I saw the same exact thing. :)

Black and purple is a cool color scheme for this. Personally, I always thought purple was an odd choice for the official art though. For some reason WW always conjurs up the colors yellow and red in my mind. IIRC its dominant in the game's color choices. But now I am rambling...

Prepare to swap HF in there after a week. ;) Otherwise, cool project! :)
 
From what I can remember. The late 80's early 90's had a fad with crazy mixtures of feminine colors. Black and hot pink is one, or even black and any neon color, with funny shaped designs. You seen it in the clothing like Jordan shoes from that era and Cross Colors and...

ie:
InLivingColorlogo.jpg

DO_THE_RIGHT_THING.jpg

1991_host_arseniohall_05.jpg


Looking at the logos on "Do the right thing" & "In Living Color". This seems like that is what Capcom tried to do in the color scheme in the artwork leaving the whole design dated. And sitting back looking at the artwork closer, it seemed like the color hue got screwed up along the way and about only 6 colors were used.

Red got turned into a pinkish red color, Blue got turned into purple. Yet yellow stayed the same and was the only sharp color other than black. The character's skin color was even a funny pink color as well. Noticed how Blanka never got his orange hair with green skin, and Dhalsim was not brown as well.

I agree 100% about the actual in game colors. Yellow and red was used quite often and that would of made the artwork a lot better. It's funny you say that, because I originally planned to Photoshop the color scheme to red, yellow & black with a bit of blue and white.
Using red, yellow and black buttons. I of course decided against it because that would just change the game way too much. Tried to keep it as original as possible, but made more sense out of it. Plus it may have been a pain to get it printed out correctly.

I'm not going to have an actual HF board installed, because I'm only going to have two boards in there.

Street Fighter II: The World Warrior & a xxxx-in-1 board. ;)

If I want to play HF and I will. :D I will just load it up on the multi-board. I'm only keeping the actual WW board in there because it just the right thing to do, and make it official.
You know... "Do the right thang!" lol ..... ok..... now I'm rambling.... thanks for the comment.
 
Reading this thread makes me want to convert my MAME back into a real arcade machine. It has a SFII setup and I have a spare monitor and SFII: WW boardset. The only thing holding me back is the cost of an art kit. I would need a marquee, bezel, CPO, and side art. Everything else is just about there. Humm....
 
Did that CPO include the joystick/button surrounds? Did you get the crazy bulletproof stuff or the tear resistant stuff? Did you take your monitor out of the cab to paint or just mask it off? Are games usually painted with gloss? I just got a SF2 and I want to do the same thing to mine :)
 
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Did that CPO include the joystick/button surrounds? Did you get the crazy bulletproof stuff or the tear resistant stuff? Did you take your monitor out of the cab to paint or just mask it off? Are games usually painted with gloss? I just got a SF2 and I want to do the same thing to mine :)

When I got my cab the first thing I did was take a look at how bad it needed to be refurbished. Depending on the condition of the cab, such as... Is it water damaged? Will it need a new panel, side wall, innards? etc etc. determined if I would go all out and take out the monitor. Some guys do since they are flipping the cabinet around to rebuild a side or two, or to put in a new bottom. Heavy work would be best to have the monitor removed.
However, since I don't have a workspace, this was all done in my 1 bedroom apartment by myself. (Wife is in Japan now, so I got away with it. :D) I had to really make do with what space and tools I had.

I've been lucky with healthy cabinets, and was able to do both restorations without taking the monitor out. Just be sure to have it over protected. I've left the old plexiglass on, with newspaper blankets and so on to mask it off. All of my nitty gritty work was on the outside of the cab, so there was no need to go through the extra step. My cab just didn't need it. It just depends on what you see fit with yours. I would then carefully do touch ups with a brush if needed around the monitor if needed with it still blocked. I used rustoleum spray paint BTW. AND PAINTERS TAPE!!
DSC01999.jpg


The joystick button decals did not come with the CPO. These are not the original set up of the SFII:WW kit. The decals were an idea that I took off of here:
http://www.hyperspin-fe.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3652

I thought it was the perfect idea and fit, the color of buttons and the decals. So I give credit to him for the idea of the CP. Also it seems as if he took the same approach of prepping the cab for painting like I did, so it does work if you're careful. Now, if you want to restore your SFII with the original generic kit set up. Don't use the decals, and use red,white and blue buttons. (In that order)

From http://www.gameongrafix.com/products/street-fighter-2-cpo I used their defaulted material. Polycarbinate laminate (also used for bullet proof glass!) which offers a very tough, scratch resistant and textured surfaces.
(get the adhesive backed CPO!) It's really great quality.

As for the paint... From what I've read on these threads, Dynamo (you have a Dynamo cab?) were all painted flat black or gloss black cabs. They were blank generic cabinets with the sole purpose of being a Jamma style converter. Operators used these cabs to easily swap out games and artwork for next said game/money maker. Which is why you see so many hacked jobs out there now. It was bad enough that some games artwork were already generic, but to add a cost/corner cutting operator made it 100x more worse. I didn't like the generic kit look, hence why I painted it the way I did.

Here is what old school SFII:WW in a dynamo HS-1 or 2 looked like with the basic kit. Solid black dynamo cabinet 19" monitors (can be 25") with regular set up cp. Best regular set up I could find on the net search since so many hacked ones out there.
DSCN0644.JPG


I would recommend checking out a few member's cabs on here like eseyo, preridillo, nessjess to name a few off the top of my head. They have some awesome original set ups.
Here is one of my favorite restore vids. yourMKsourceman is awesome with his how-to vids, so I advise you to check him out as well.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xYW7k1CFqH8

Oh, one more thing. If you do your artwork. Do it all in one place so it matches. This game contains 4 pieces,(Marquee, CPO, bezel, and sides) and is known to have it's yellows a bit off, also the purple can be dark blue at times depending on who is printing it out.
 
I actually have the same joystick/button surrounds as you do just not applied very well. Digging into this cab a bit more, it looks like it was made in 82' and had a few Williams stickers inside to. Its in decent shape other than some chips along the bottom from being moved.

2011-08-27201754.jpg


2011-08-30041254.jpg


I dont know if you can see that very well but the button surrounds were printed on a huge piece of clear sticker material and this guy just laid the whole thing on the cpo without trimming it at all. The monitor surround is the worst of it all though. It was to wide for the screen so they just cut it in half and taped the two sides together. Anyway Id really appreciate it if you could share where you got the surrounds.
 
My SF2 is also a conversion from a 1982 Williams cabinet. (Robotron) When I got the cabinet I was shocked at how poorly thrown together the conversion was. The bezel graphics were cut up horribly, the CPO graphics were just applied on top of the existing Robotron graphics and to top it off the glass for the front wasn't in even the proper size, it was about 4 inches smaller then what should of been in there.

It restored pretty well, I redid the bezel, glass, marquee and side art. I'm just hoping to find some decent joystick overlays for it as I don't want to leave the CPO just the bare grey and black color that you can easily find, so the CPO stays as is.

I actually have the same joystick/button surrounds as you do just not applied very well. Digging into this cab a bit more, it looks like it was made in 82' and had a few Williams stickers inside to. Its in decent shape other than some chips along the bottom from being moved.

2011-08-27201754.jpg


2011-08-30041254.jpg


I dont know if you can see that very well but the button surrounds were printed on a huge piece of clear sticker material and this guy just laid the whole thing on the cpo without trimming it at all. The monitor surround is the worst of it all though. It was to wide for the screen so they just cut it in half and taped the two sides together. Anyway Id really appreciate it if you could share where you got the surrounds.
 
The button decals I got off of a member of another forum. He bought them a couple years back for a project that never materialized, and lucky for me he wanted to sell them. He was also from the United Kingdom.

Knowing how hard these decals were to find, I scanned them in case someone else needed them. I had made a WTB thread for them and it took about two weeks before someone replied. PM me your e-mails if you want them. You can probably go somewhere and get them printed out and have yourself some new decals.

Sticking the whole thing on there without trimming is the easy way I guess. I trimmed everything except the joystick decals because I wanted a larger sticker size for the joys.

Those Williams cabinets actually have a similar control panel to some of the rounded CPs that the Dynamo HS-1 had. Those were ideal I guess since it displayed the SFII logo like a marquee and nothing got trimmed. The play room was a bit small then the cut corner CP. The rounded CP was used for games like 1943, Final Fight, and other older games that didn't require a lot of room. When Street Fighter came out with both players needing 6 buttons, things got a bit stuffy. So I guess the longer cut corner CPs came out. Also you have the normal 19" screen like the HS-1s had.

This is from another member on here who has a really nice G&G set up.
gng1.jpg


Your Williams cabinet how it looks is very common. Sometimes the CPO are more hacked, at least they got the buttons right. If you do a search online you can see how bad some of them can get. That video I posted was one of the examples. Someone decided not to spend the extra money and threw Turbo artwork only on the bezel and marquee. I always find it funny to see a SFIIWW CPO, Turbo ED marquee, with a champions ED game running, and final fight or some other game artwork on the side.

Are you planning on getting another game? Just for thought. If I were you, and I was able or planning on getting another game. I would try to find a Dynamo cab. Restore that to a SFII machine and restore your Williams into a Sinistar or something really classic from Williams.
If I had the room, I would have a Sinistar and a Wizard of Wor already.
 
I think that all of that printing should go into restoring an HS1 corner cut instead of a converted Robotron. Turn that Robotron into a Multi Williams or maybe just a Robotron...
 
I think that all of that printing should go into restoring an HS1 corner cut instead of a converted Robotron. Turn that Robotron into a Multi Williams or maybe just a Robotron...

+1 (If you were able to pull this off)

I've emailed you guys the decals.
Also thanks again mert8431, I can too finish my restore / conversion project with the side art.
 
I tried sending you a PM but it doesnt show up in my sent msgs can you pm me your email if for some reason your not receiving mine?
 
@brokenjoy Thanks, hope to have it complete within a few more weeks before school starts.

I got your PM, should have gotten a e-mail from me.
 
I'm so digging the whole button scheme with the purple front paint. Very awsome!

+10 for the jap cab with the Tekken series.
+10000000000000000 for the Tekken slot machine.
 
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