Did that CPO include the joystick/button surrounds? Did you get the crazy bulletproof stuff or the tear resistant stuff? Did you take your monitor out of the cab to paint or just mask it off? Are games usually painted with gloss? I just got a SF2 and I want to do the same thing to mine
When I got my cab the first thing I did was take a look at how bad it needed to be refurbished. Depending on the condition of the cab, such as... Is it water damaged? Will it need a new panel, side wall, innards? etc etc. determined if I would go all out and take out the monitor. Some guys do since they are flipping the cabinet around to rebuild a side or two, or to put in a new bottom. Heavy work would be best to have the monitor removed.
However, since I don't have a workspace, this was all done in my 1 bedroom apartment by myself. (Wife is in Japan now, so I got away with it.

) I had to really make do with what space and tools I had.
I've been lucky with healthy cabinets, and was able to do both restorations without taking the monitor out. Just be sure to have it over protected. I've left the old plexiglass on, with newspaper blankets and so on to mask it off. All of my nitty gritty work was on the outside of the cab, so there was no need to go through the extra step. My cab just didn't need it. It just depends on what you see fit with yours. I would then carefully do touch ups with a brush if needed around the monitor if needed with it still blocked. I used rustoleum spray paint BTW. AND PAINTERS TAPE!!
The joystick button decals did not come with the CPO. These are not the original set up of the SFII:WW kit. The decals were an idea that I took off of here:
http://www.hyperspin-fe.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3652
I thought it was the perfect idea and fit, the color of buttons and the decals. So I give credit to him for the idea of the CP. Also it seems as if he took the same approach of prepping the cab for painting like I did, so it does work if you're careful. Now, if you want to restore your SFII with the original generic kit set up. Don't use the decals, and use red,white and blue buttons. (In that order)
From
http://www.gameongrafix.com/products/street-fighter-2-cpo I used their defaulted material. Polycarbinate laminate (also used for bullet proof glass!) which offers a very tough, scratch resistant and textured surfaces.
(get the adhesive backed CPO!) It's really great quality.
As for the paint... From what I've read on these threads, Dynamo (you have a Dynamo cab?) were all painted flat black or gloss black cabs. They were blank generic cabinets with the sole purpose of being a Jamma style converter. Operators used these cabs to easily swap out games and artwork for next said game/money maker. Which is why you see so many hacked jobs out there now. It was bad enough that some games artwork were already generic, but to add a cost/corner cutting operator made it 100x more worse. I didn't like the generic kit look, hence why I painted it the way I did.
Here is what old school SFII:WW in a dynamo HS-1 or 2 looked like with the basic kit. Solid black dynamo cabinet 19" monitors (can be 25") with regular set up cp. Best regular set up I could find on the net search since so many hacked ones out there.
I would recommend checking out a few member's cabs on here like eseyo, preridillo, nessjess to name a few off the top of my head. They have some awesome original set ups.
Here is one of my favorite restore vids. yourMKsourceman is awesome with his how-to vids, so I advise you to check him out as well.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xYW7k1CFqH8
Oh, one more thing. If you do your artwork. Do it all in one place so it matches. This game contains 4 pieces,(Marquee, CPO, bezel, and sides) and is known to have it's yellows a bit off, also the purple can be dark blue at times depending on who is printing it out.