ROUND 2! Dynamo HS-2 Street Fighter II World Warrior Resto/Conv

[CHALLENGER]

ROUND 2! Dynamo HS-2 Street Fighter II World Warrior Resto/Conv

LOL yes another SF restore/conversion thread. For all the SF junkies like me.

Ok, so about two weeks ago, I scored an awesome trade through CL with a little bit of help from some KLOVers. I traded a boxed NES and SNES systems with about 67 NES games.

In return I received a 25" Dynamo HS-2 cab that was converted into a Tekken 3.

This thing was almost on it's way to a Laundry mat somewhere in the Midwest. So I saved it and gave it a loving home.

After the trade was said and done, I gave the cab another look over, and popped open the back and took a look at it's insides. As with most old location cabs it was dirty, caked with dust and dirt from over the years. Nothing gross or bad, no pests or "Strange" items inside. LOL Found an old Little Nemo stuffed animal tag, and some amusement tickets.

The thing I noticed right away was the back door has a square box that bulges out to make room for the monitor. Guessing since the 19" were smaller, when the cabinet was upgraded to a K7000WG 25", they had to add an extension to the door.the height of the cab.

I also noticed that this thing was tall compared to my brothers for some reason. It's 78" tall wile my brothers was like 62"? It's also not as wide as my brother's HS-5. So I did a bit of research and learned that Dynamo had some cabs available with base height extensions. (I think only HS-5 models) My bro's cab also had a base extension that had been removed making it about a foot shorter than my cab.

The switch was also on the top right corner over the marquee. So an HS-5 is ruled out. I'm thinking that this thing is an HS-2.

 

[CHALLENGER]

Took a look at the CP and noticed it must have been the original one with the pre-existing holes in it for game conversions. Right then, I figured I would have to somehow get a new panel so I could convert this cab into a Street Fighter II.

Upon looking around the forums, I ran across r5g who was selling a couple of dynamo cut corner panels. So I bought an old Marvel Superheroes CP. So thanks again r5g!

I've already stripped, primed, and painted the CP and still awaiting the new SFII CPO. Maybe tomorrow?

I've taken off the coin door and removed the old beat up buttons and coin mechs before I painted it. I've managed to find $3.75 jammed into the thing. Not bad for a mech that was labeld 1989. Quite old.

 

[CHALLENGER]

Moving along I realized that I will have to rebuild a whole new Jamma harness since this thing was rigged straight up for a Namco system 12 board. Plus everything is kinda grimey.

The monitor was also not taking a liking to my xxxx-in-1 board that I threw in there. Haven't tested any other boards other than Tekken 3 and that, and seen a roll on the top of the screen that I can't fix.

However this thing is also dirtier than hell.

I sure did and still have some work cut out for me.

 

[CHALLENGER]

Saving the insides for later. I wanted to get this thing looking new again, and like a Street Fighter machine. So I prepped it the best I could. Call me crazy... Having no space to take this to. I had to really prep my whole room as well. Reminded me of my Navy days where you have to do what you gotta do in not so spacious areas.

When I decided to do this project, I wanted to add a bit of a twist since I really never agreed with the color scheme of the SFII cabs. Since there is a lot of purple used in the artwork. I decided that Black and Purple would be the two main colors. Using Rustoleum Plum purple for the first 3 coats, and then Gloss purple for the right purple I wanted. It came out really glossy and shows a lot of reflection.

 

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I've then decided that the sides needed some patching as well. I didn't have any coin door lock holes like I did in the front. But some deep gashes were present and had to get things smoothed out before I applied one drop of paint.

 

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Again using gloss paint (black) really turned out nice. Really reflective as you can see in the picture.

Still wet and with the foam roller marks noticeable on the 2nd coat. Added 3-4 coats total.

Tomorrow I hope to get my CPO and have that applied with the new buttons. (Purple, Black & yellow) Like I said, didn't think that red, blue and white fit the artwork color scheme. So adding a custom twist that could easily be changed if I ever wanted to have it original original.

To be continued.......

 

[mert8431]

Let me know if your still looking for the marquee, I can always print one out for you! Shipping would be pretty cheap considering your only like an hour north of me. I just got some high quality scans of the original arcade artwork and was going to print the side art for it this weekend anyway.

 

[KevinMullins]

Your use of the term "dirty" is almost humorous for those of us that have been around a while.

But your project looks to be coming along very nicely.

As for the monitor - Try adjusting the little blue pot near the flyback labeled 50/60Hz. Also noticed your degauss coil was not plugged in.

 

[CHALLENGER]

I wont need the arcade marquee. But I may want the side art. What kind of paper, print job do you do? Also how much?

 

[mert8431]

I do it on an adhesive vinyl, looks pretty good. If I have enough material, then the only cost to you is the shipping,

Pics here: https://skydrive.live.com/?sc=photo...7BFCBB1C621&id=7EC5E7BFCBB1C621!574&sc=photos
I've done the marquee, bezel and the current side art on the printer as well, but I'm removing the marquees I have on the side and the Japanese flyer art to put the actual side art on there.

The side art is about 16x22 if I recall.

 

[CHALLENGER]

Your use of the term "dirty" is almost humorous for those of us that have been around a while.

But your project looks to be coming along very nicely.

As for the monitor - Try adjusting the little blue pot near the flyback labeled 50/60Hz. Also noticed your degauss coil was not plugged in.

Yeah, I'll try that. Also where is the degauss coil?

 

[CHALLENGER]

I do it on an adhesive vinyl, looks pretty good. If I have enough material, then the only cost to you is the shipping,

Pics here: https://skydrive.live.com/?sc=photo...7BFCBB1C621&id=7EC5E7BFCBB1C621!574&sc=photos
I've done the marquee, bezel and the current side art on the printer as well, but I'm removing the marquees I have on the side and the Japanese flyer art to put the actual side art on there.

The side art is about 16x22 if I recall.

I may have to take you up on that. artwork doesn't look bad at all. The bezel looks real good.

 

[KevinMullins]

Yeah, I'll try that. Also where is the degauss coil?

Two pin connector near the tube side.

Not sure "why" it's unplugged, only time it should be left unplugged is if it is shorted and blows the chassis fuse. Not saying that's your case...just don't know.

 

[CHALLENGER]

Two pin connector near the tube side.

Not sure "why" it's unplugged, only time it should be left unplugged is if it is shorted and blows the chassis fuse. Not saying that's your case...just don't know.

Maybe from when it was moved. When it was delivered, it was brought in a mini van on it's side and who knows what before that. The monitor didn't show any rolling when the Tekken 3 was installed. However, I did notice that the everything was kinda shrunk down (vertically and Horizontally) The resolution was not to the edges at all. When I swapped boards and tried to stretch the picture and kept getting the rolling on top. If I kept turning the horizontal dials the whole screen would just start roll like you see in those old films.

So this could be the "reason" or "part" of the reason why it's rolling on the top?
It's obvious I'm a total noob when it comes to monitors, but if I'm going to own a couple machines. I need to learn. I appreciate your attention to detail and help.
To a noob like me, it's no doubt I would miss it.

 

[KevinMullins]

The degauss coil has nothing to do with the rolling top. It helps remove residual magnetism when the monitor is first turned on. Magnetism will cause funky or splotchy colors.

The top rolling like that is most likely adjustable, sometimes old capacitors can cause issues like that as well.
First thing to do with a monitor is to get familiar with every dial or knob on it. (if any are glued, ask first)
Try adjusting the "vertical" height down and such and watch the top as you do it.
Try turning the contrast down and watch what it does.
Try turning the 50/60Hz up or down and watch what it does.
Sometimes it's just a matter of fiddling with it and paying close attention to the monitors reaction.

As far as your width, you won't always necessarily get the image to "completely" fill the visible screen area, sometime you just have to come to a compromise. Often times a properly adjusted monitor will have an equal black border all the way around.

 

[CHALLENGER]

I've done everything with all the knobs except the 50/60Hz. I will have to try that.
Everything seemed to work with all of the other knobs too as in functional. But couldn't get rid of the rolling issue.

I guess once I am done with the restoration, I could try and fiddle with the thing. Make a video of it to see what the issue may be. OR it could just be the board. I've read that sometimes the boards just don't take well with certain monitors.

 

[CHALLENGER]

Worked on the CP section for the past few days.
Applied the new CPO from http://www.gameongrafix.com/ that did a real good job on the artwork. Dark colors, and very sturdy tear resistant Polybanner material overlay that sticks well to the CP.

The one thing that always bothered me about the cut corner dynamo CP's. Was how it made the CP litterally look like it was cut off at the corner. Damaging the CAPCOM logo in the process. Just a pet peeve of mine. So what I did, was salvage the scraps from the cut off ends of the CPO and managed to cover the corner edges. Also with a precision knife, I cut and folded over the capcom logo. With a little more work and touch up marker, I can blend in everything.

Also installed new buttons that I felt matched the artwork color scheme of Capcom's artwork. I don't know why they went with red, white & blue. For the original SF game, that may have worked. But not with SFIIWW. But being this was just a kit, operators used the comon colored buttons I guess and thus the generic CP was made.
I even found some new button decals that I found fitting for this type of theme. Had that early 90's design to them, and the black and yellow fit the color scheme as well.

replaced the common white start buttons with black ones to match.

Once I get new plexiglass overlay made, I can install the joysticks.

Still a little more work to blend in the corners.

 

[tigerstyle]

Excellent job!

 

[CHALLENGER]

^ Thanks. Still have a ways to go yet. But it's fun to restore these things to their former glory.

I had gotten the Bezel artwork today and was real pleased. I was worried that the measurements would be completely off, or perhaps the colors wouldn't match. (too dark, or too light). But the bezel matches the CPO perfectly, and the colors are original and strong on all the artwork. The material is tough Laminated Banner material, which will need to be sandwiched behind the plexi-glass.

Here is the measurement I sent to http://www.gameongrafix.com/ for my custom fit.

Just pulled out of the protective sheet & poster tube, this thing looks real nice. great shipping, and they left me to cut the middle out so the bezel didn't get damaged during the shipment, which is a good idea.

None of the art is cut off as you see in almost all SFIIWW. This seems to be the only game that people don't mind botching the art, and to me that is senseless. I don't see this done to Donkey Kongs, or pac man games. All of the characters are there, and everything is shown. The yellow square instruction tabs are hard not to be blocked by the CP. However the artwork setup was kind of poorly designed by Capcom on SFWW and CE. But if you take the time and effort, you can work around it quite nicely. Yes I will replace that ugly old marquee I have.

 

[StreetzKing]

looks awesome man, love the color scheme