Rookie Getaway Teardown, Fixup, Rebuild

Parts rust remover progress. I tried just tumbling first and then I decided to soak some parts in evaporust. The playfield sliders/pivot things ? were too big for tumbler and I hand sanded those a bit. Still they don't look as good as others who do the same thing. Suggestions?

IMG_20140305_165910.JPG
 
You could probably take all that somewhere and have them sandblasted for like $20.

I didn't think about that but that is a good suggestion. I am probably going to stay on the cheap and just get them the best I can. Thanks!
 
I was researching something and believe I have one of the first 250 Getaway's made. In the Williams Red parts catalog it says only the first #250 had playfield support bars. Mine has one and it also has the proto type code so makes sense it was an early version.

figured I would share that
 
Another question.. I posted this on pinside too.
I am trying to determine exact screw length that should hold my playfield slide assy to playfield (getaway). I tumbled a bunch of parts and I didn't end up with the quantity (8) of the type I thought it should be.

The manual is not this detailed and the closest I found that came to it was this pic from planetarypinball parts catalog.

Screen%20Shot%202014-03-05%20at%209.41.01%20PM.png


I know it is something like 8-32 x 5/8 p-ph-sems but nothing here jives with that
http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/1000/Williams_1992_The_Getaway_High_Speed_II_Parts_List.txt

I doubt the correct sizes for other parts stayed factory through its life so would be nice to be able double check others as I put it back together.

any clues for the specific question or general is appreciated.
 
no real visible progress but got an order from pinball life today including
Ground braid (for backbox)
yellow stand up replacement target
new star and double star posts.

Also found this site which does a good job of breaking down the wms hardware list abbr.
http://webspace.webring.com/people/sl/loupz/key-hardware.htm
 
Worked some more on getting the rust off the PCB metal plate.
Put some more parts in the tumbler.
picked up a table saw and some oak to rip the new playfield wood side rail.
Used eprom burner for first time to burn L5 code. Picked up an extra U6 chip so I can try the L2 as well down the road.
....
no interesting pictures but just little by little progress
 
Ripped new playfield side support rails today (getting some paint on them now) Never used a table saw before but they came out ok. I am working on someone w/ better saw and skill to cut another set.

On backbox, I was trying to avoid bondo, sand and complete repaint but as I was prepping for new back panel, the whole thing came apart. Got it all back together with new back panel, wood glue and finishing nails. I am learning a ton going through this. Basically, I learned I don't love woodworking so need to outsource that in the future.

Probably, should have put the grain up/down but didn't think of it before cutting.
IMG_20140315_173625.JPG
 
finally got some time to work on this last night. Need to replace the flipper bats. One is cracked and one doesn't have the williams logo. Also found two allen type screws in playfield which I can't really figure out. Any ideas? I don't see these on other pics but it is an early playfield. Also, as I start to clean playfield I feel compelled to remove all the components, ball trough, auto-plunger, kick-back etc. Should I to get them really clean? Should I consider removing the Mylar in front of slingshots?

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Been a long time since my last post on progress. I have been tinkering here and there but no major progress as other projects got in the way.

Anyway, I am kind of stuck on the metal pcb backing. I spent hours over many day using evapo-rust, naval jelly, sanding, more jelly to try and get rid off all the rust. I then primed it so it wouldn't rust however the primer is not conductive. How should I treat this piece of metal so it conducts for grounding purposes but doesn't rust?

pic of my rust remover processing of soaking papertowels in Evapo-Rust. Worked somewhat.
IMG_20140316_093355.jpg



as it is now.
IMG_20140724_144606.jpg
 
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Not quite 2 years since last post. I haven't been motivated to work on this as I lost all my tear down pictures that were stored on my phone and I was just more interested in other projects. Lesson learned; I now sync my phone camera automatically to dropbox.

1st coat of primer on the back box tonight. It is not going to be perfect but hopefully better than it started. At this point my goal is to just the thing back together :)

2016-02-22%2020.15.02.jpg


2016-02-22%2020.14.28.jpg


current state of playfield. I have removed the mylar in front of sling shots but not much else.

2016-02-22%2020.17.20.jpg
 
Ripped new playfield side support rails today (getting some paint on them now) Never used a table saw before but they came out ok. I am working on someone w/ better saw and skill to cut another set.
....[/img]

Wanted to give props to TaylorVA on pinside that had cut me some new side rails oh about a year ago. Mine were"ok" for first rip cut on table saw ever but his were perfect. They really helped straighten the playfield and made it more rigid.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/few-questions-on-getaway-restore

quick pic of one of them installed.

2016-02-22%2020.34.52.jpg
 
Issue: Slow supercharger speed. Should have filmed my test sorry but speed was like 170.
Researched this a bit and found this youtube video series by BlackRose that gave me a clue.

looked at mine and realize that instead of rivets they used screws in the diverter and the diverter is on the backside.
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#4 Battery holder replacement
This was previous solution for getting batteries off the board. They were wrapped in electrical tape.

IMG_20140126_161616.jpg
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issue #2 half of GI is out.
Looked under playfield and GI lights that were working were associated with Orange and White/Orange wires. Ones that were out were Brown and White/Brown. Traced back to backbox J120 and found burnt connector. Wasn't noticeable until after disconnect.

IMG_20140202_141158.jpg
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Issue #10 Water damage in backbox. So this could be related to issue #5 as well (possible chronic blow fuse). I made a quick video on troubleshooting GND on boards and then went to tearing backbox down.

Some pics showing progress of labeling and then removing driver board

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Then sound board, fliptronics 2 board, dmd board, and lastly the cpu board.

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back of metal plate from back box. Not exactly sure what to do here. Maybe just sand all the rust off? Going to take the rest out, then sand, bondo and repaint. Unfortunately everyone is sold out of Getaway art so kind of will be stuck a bit. Open to suggestions.

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#7 Wire hacks. from twisty caps to solder wires to pins, to direct solder to back of board. I contributed to a couple of them while troubleshooting but plan on making it all good.

Bypass of GI power. Connector must have burnt up.
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Haven't researched this one yet.
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Because it was a reimport this was done to get it back to 120v AC. The bypass didn't look 100% to me so contributed to this hack at least temporarily.
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other than these 3 cases there are a couple of splices here and there. Most look to be done to put in a replacement part.

Fixing broken picture links.
 

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order some parts today. Also trying to figure out what to do w/ back of backbox and the slight bow in playfield. Thoughts?

The back of backbox is very rough (bubbled up) and the bottom portion can easily be broken with hand. My guess is this is due to some water damage but he rest of back box appears to be ok but had some paint touch up.
?should I just cut a new piece for the back portion with the downside of losing the warning lettering or just sand and repair small portion.

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There appears to be some playfield sag toward the back. You can see where the wood sides rail (not sure what to call this part) have stretched just enough to make the paint crack. There is no visible cracks but just looks like it an inverse bow. Suggestions on what can be done here.

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addressed this issue tonight. Used blind rivets which were not the original type but you can't really see these during game play. This was made much easier by disconnecting the diverter from the plunger/arm. Not perfect but should make a huge difference. less than $5 at harbor freight.
http://www.harborfreight.com/hand-riveter-set-38353.html

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Received Great Plains shipment and finally found some time to work on this tonight. Slow progress thus far.
replaced J115 and J120 and reflowed solder on all the connectors on driver board. Didn't replace J121 which was connected to back box lighting as it both the pins and connector looked fine.
Also removed the battery holder from cpu board, which had a bit of corrosion but no damage to board.

IMG_20140223_203536.jpg
1751072054176.jpeg

Parts rust remover progress. I tried just tumbling first and then I decided to soak some parts in evaporust. The playfield sliders/pivot things ? were too big for tumbler and I hand sanded those a bit. Still they don't look as good as others who do the same thing. Suggestions?
1751072113058.jpeg
IMG_20140305_165910.JPG

Another question.. I posted this on pinside too.
I am trying to determine exact screw length that should hold my playfield slide assy to playfield (getaway). I tumbled a bunch of parts and I didn't end up with the quantity (8) of the type I thought it should be.

The manual is not this detailed and the closest I found that came to it was this pic from planetarypinball parts catalog.

Screen%20Shot%202014-03-05%20at%209.41.01%20PM.png
1751072197767.png

I know it is something like 8-32 x 5/8 p-ph-sems but nothing here jives with that
http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/1000/Williams_1992_The_Getaway_High_Speed_II_Parts_List.txt

I doubt the correct sizes for other parts stayed factory through its life so would be nice to be able double check others as I put it back together.

any clues for the specific question or general is appreciated.

Ripped new playfield side support rails today (getting some paint on them now) Never used a table saw before but they came out ok. I am working on someone w/ better saw and skill to cut another set.

On backbox, I was trying to avoid bondo, sand and complete repaint but as I was prepping for new back panel, the whole thing came apart. Got it all back together with new back panel, wood glue and finishing nails. I am learning a ton going through this. Basically, I learned I don't love woodworking so need to outsource that in the future.

Probably, should have put the grain up/down but didn't think of it before cutting.
IMG_20140315_173625.JPG
1751072246303.jpeg
 
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finally got some time to work on this last night. Need to replace the flipper bats. One is cracked and one doesn't have the williams logo. Also found two allen type screws in playfield which I can't really figure out. Any ideas? I don't see these on other pics but it is an early playfield. Also, as I start to clean playfield I feel compelled to remove all the components, ball trough, auto-plunger, kick-back etc. Should I to get them really clean? Should I consider removing the Mylar in front of slingshots?

IMG_20140416_190029.jpg
1751072295053.jpeg
IMG_20140416_184049.jpg
1751072322953.jpeg
IMG_20140416_184041.jpg
1751072350156.jpeg

Been a long time since my last post on progress. I have been tinkering here and there but no major progress as other projects got in the way.

Anyway, I am kind of stuck on the metal pcb backing. I spent hours over many day using evapo-rust, naval jelly, sanding, more jelly to try and get rid off all the rust. I then primed it so it wouldn't rust however the primer is not conductive. How should I treat this piece of metal so it conducts for grounding purposes but doesn't rust?

pic of my rust remover processing of soaking papertowels in Evapo-Rust. Worked somewhat.
IMG_20140316_093355.jpg

1751072383547.jpeg

as it is now.
IMG_20140724_144606.jpg
1751072431177.jpeg

Not quite 2 years since last post. I haven't been motivated to work on this as I lost all my tear down pictures that were stored on my phone and I was just more interested in other projects. Lesson learned; I now sync my phone camera automatically to dropbox.

1st coat of primer on the back box tonight. It is not going to be perfect but hopefully better than it started. At this point my goal is to just the thing back together :)
1751072580853.jpeg
2016-02-22%2020.15.02.jpg
1751072604844.jpeg

2016-02-22%2020.14.28.jpg


current state of playfield. I have removed the mylar in front of sling shots but not much else.

2016-02-22%2020.17.20.jpg
1751072637845.jpeg

Wanted to give props to TaylorVA on pinside that had cut me some new side rails oh about a year ago. Mine were"ok" for first rip cut on table saw ever but his were perfect. They really helped straighten the playfield and made it more rigid.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/few-questions-on-getaway-restore

quick pic of one of them installed.
1751072678943.jpeg
2016-02-22%2020.34.52.jpg
 
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10 year neglected project seeing some minor progress. Backbox is most of the way back. It won't be perfect but should be more than presentable. Lots of wire wheel and tumbling. Still need to do bolts but figured I would show comparison. checked and cleaned fuses and reflowed all header pins..
 

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Set up working brother to help facilitate reassembly.
 

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some self documenting of the "brother" getaway, which is also a reimport. Seems operators always want to hack some replacement to the knocker. Notice the resistor on the coin meter. I guess this had 48k specials or free games ? I mean the audits track that so don't get it at all.

I haven't done much (replaced batteries) with this one since picking it up https://forums.arcade-museum.com/threads/it-pays-to-have-a-storage-unit.417335/post-4492206. It needs a shop job and a couple switch issues worked out but won't derail this thread too much with this 2nd getaway.
 

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#7 Wire hacks.....

Haven't researched this one yet.

1762191571123.png

I finally figured this one out. After looking at how my "brother" getaway was wired up, I made a new connector for J137 and wired it up the same. WRONG!! keep reading

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Found a couple good posts on pinside and did some experimentation. The yellow/green lamp column should be on J137-6 but the red/grey row wire should be on J134-9. This wire pair is for the "cabinet" lamps and the only light it controls is the start/credit button. The funny thing is my "brother" getaway also had it wired up wrong with red/grey row on J137-9 and credit button still seemed to work. Either way, looks like Williams didn't think through the lamp matrix of the start button very well and I will be addressing with another J134 connector, on both getaway's, like pic below.
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