Rookie Getaway Teardown, Fixup, Rebuild

jacklick

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Donor 9 years: 2013, 2016-2021, 2023-2024
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Starting a thread to document everything I discover, fix and rebuild on this Getaway. 1st time tearing a machine all the way so have tons of questions and instead of having separate threads on each item, thought this might work. I don't want to call it a restore because not sure it will go that far.

Also, since I picked this machine up from a FS thread here on KLOV thought it would be interesting to document its life. Wish me luck.

History.
acquired via this post http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=299754

List of parts to be ordered. (comments welcome) will update this as I go.
1) rubber ring kit <ordered>
2) coil sleeve kit
3) new legs
4) yellow target <ordered>
5) battery holder
6) pivot nut <installed>
7) cliffy protectors
8) new post sleeves <ordered>
9) new molex connectors, pins, headers.

Issues to address
1) slow supercharger speed @ 170 on speed test <fixed but untested>
2) part of GI not working
3) mars lamp works but not in diag mode
4) battery holder
5) possible chronic blown fuse issue F102 related to ball plunger. See http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=300569
6) upgrade code to L2 or L5 (running prototype code PC)
7) tidy up some wiring hacks
8) left flipper sometimes sticks in up position (eos)
9) missing one of the pivot nuts for pivoting playfield in up position <fixed>
10) some water damage on backbox.
11) investigate connection on J134-9
 
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Issue: Slow supercharger speed. Should have filmed my test sorry but speed was like 170.
Researched this a bit and found this youtube video series by BlackRose that gave me a clue.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8mvFydoH3_c
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9DIKZgSeZ8g

looked at mine and realize that instead of rivets they used screws in the diverter and the diverter is on the backside.

IMG_20140201_144516.jpg
 
#4 Battery holder replacement
This was previous solution for getting batteries off the board. They were wrapped in electrical tape.

IMG_20140126_161616.jpg
 
issue #2 half of GI is out.
Looked under playfield and GI lights that were working were associated with Orange and White/Orange wires. Ones that were out were Brown and White/Brown. Traced back to backbox J120 and found burnt connector. Wasn't noticeable until after disconnect.

IMG_20140202_141158.jpg
 
Getaway is a great game, I'd love to have one someday.

Good luck with the project! Take your time and enjoy the learning process.
 
Yep, good luck with the project and thanks for sharing pictures! If you feel like it, please post more as you continue with your project. I love The Getaway and I like to see the progression of projects like this.
 
Issue #10 Water damage in backbox. So this could be related to issue #5 as well (possible chronic blow fuse). I made a quick video on troubleshooting GND on boards and then went to tearing backbox down.

Some pics showing progress of labeling and then removing driver board

IMG_20140202_153716.jpg



Then sound board, fliptronics 2 board, dmd board, and lastly the cpu board.

IMG_20140202_163112.jpg


back of metal plate from back box. Not exactly sure what to do here. Maybe just sand all the rust off? Going to take the rest out, then sand, bondo and repaint. Unfortunately everyone is sold out of Getaway art so kind of will be stuck a bit. Open to suggestions.

IMG_20140202_165126.jpg
 
#7 Wire hacks. from twisty caps to solder wires to pins, to direct solder to back of board. I contributed to a couple of them while troubleshooting but plan on making it all good.

Bypass of GI power. Connector must have burnt up.
IMG_20140202_151949.jpg


Haven't researched this one yet.
IMG_20140202_151931.jpg


Because it was a reimport this was done to get it back to 120v AC. The bypass didn't look 100% to me so contributed to this hack at least temporarily.
IMG_20140202_180940.jpg


other than these 3 cases there are a couple of splices here and there. Most look to be done to put in a replacement part.
 
My stupid video testing GND on the driver board.




edit: ugh...never linked to video on my dropbox before. It is not rotated correctly will put link back in when fixed.

Ok fixed.
 
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Hey,

Not sure how many of these you've done, but J120 and J121 are always pretty crispy on these games. A lot of people replace them with Trifurcon connectors. I can likely point you in the right direction if you need help with that.

Luke
 
On your burned connectors, that's a chronic issue with Williams board GIs in my experience. I saw the same thing on a Diner I worked on.

You'll probably need to re-flow the pins on the lamp board. The connectors get so hot, you end up with cold joints there (which makes things worse).

Nice catch - by the time I found my connector problem on Diner (just took the game over), it was toasted to the point where the connector disintegrated when I removed it from the board. That was fun.
 
That turbo charger looks like a rail gun - three coils back to back to back, to accelerate the ball? Wow. It must go off like a bullet!
 
Hey,

Not sure how many of these you've done, but J120 and J121 are always pretty crispy on these games. A lot of people replace them with Trifurcon connectors. I can likely point you in the right direction if you need help with that.

Luke

I haven't done any yet :) but was just researching this on pinwiki. probably read the whole wpc page. Will be repinning these and doing other preventative maintenance while boards are out. Feel free to point me to where to get this stuff.
 
Hey,

I'll have to look over some old parts orders, but I can point you in more or less the right direction. It's not hard; just a bit intimidating the first time you work on a pretty expensive circuit board.

Luke
 
Been mostly doing some research for the last couple of days. Do have the backbox completely off. Plan on trying metalrescue or similar on some of the rusted parts.

issue #2 (GI lighting) and some #7 part of wiring hacks, will require new J115, J120, J121 header and connector replacements.

For reference later
This site details the difference between IDC and Crimp connectors. http://www.pinrepair.com/connect/

Good thread with picture of J115 w/ Crimp style replacement. There is also a link in there to a good diagram on the GI
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/techgi-molex-rebuild

Several sites sell the replacement header pins, connectors etc. Greatplains, pinballlife, mouser etc.
 
order some parts today. Also trying to figure out what to do w/ back of backbox and the slight bow in playfield. Thoughts?

The back of backbox is very rough (bubbled up) and the bottom portion can easily be broken with hand. My guess is this is due to some water damage but he rest of back box appears to be ok but had some paint touch up.
?should I just cut a new piece for the back portion with the downside of losing the warning lettering or just sand and repair small portion.

IMG_20140204_222933.jpg


There appears to be some playfield sag toward the back. You can see where the wood sides rail (not sure what to call this part) have stretched just enough to make the paint crack. There is no visible cracks but just looks like it an inverse bow. Suggestions on what can be done here.

IMG_20140205_102422.jpg

IMG_20140205_102402.jpg
 
#9 Molex Connectors, Headers, pins etc.
after a lot of reading and looking at different websites went ahead and ordered from Great Plains. Slow progress due to life but hopefully will make some this weekend.

put together a kit based somewhat on what pinball life has here
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1642

but also added the Trifurcon pins, BCT-1 crimper. Listed below in case it helps someone or there are comments.

Details Name Quantity
26-48-1245 Connector, 0.156" Header, 24 Pin 10
09-50-8021 Connector, 0.156" Plug, 2 Pin 3
09-50-8031 Connector, 0.156" Plug, 3 Pin 3
09-50-8041 Connector, 0.156" Plug, 4 Pin 3
09-50-8051 Connector, 0.156" Plug, 5 Pin 3
09-50-8061 Connector, 0.156" Plug, 6 Pin 3
09-50-8071 Connector, 0.156" Plug, 7 Pin 3
09-50-8081 Connector, 0.156" Plug, 8 Pin 3
09-50-8091 Connector, 0.156" Plug, 9 Pin 3
09-50-8101 Connector, 0.156" Plug, 10 Pin 3
09-50-8111 Connector, 0.156" Plug, 11 Pin 3
09-50-8121 Connector, 0.156" Plug, 12 Pin 3
09-50-8131 Connector, 0.156" Plug, 13 Pin 3
1026-CT Crimper, General Purpose 1
15-04-0297 Keying Plug, 0.156" Small 30
08-52-0125 Crimp Contact, 0.156", Trifurcon, 22-26AWG 100
 
Looking good.

Those connectors will make a big difference. I have a machine that was resetting regularly during play. The J101 plug went poof in my hand the first time I pulled it off the board. Put new crimp style connector on it and it's been working really well ever since. I still need to repin that connection, too, hopefully get it done soon (have my own order in at GPE).

You've set a pretty big agenda for your first tear down, but you're going to learn a ton. Most of it for me is the research and feeling confident just diving in. Getting it back together and seeing it sparkle and working is a great feeling.

Keep us updated!
 
Issue: Slow supercharger speed. Should have filmed my test sorry but speed was like 170.
Researched this a bit and found this youtube video series by BlackRose that gave me a clue.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8mvFydoH3_c
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9DIKZgSeZ8g

looked at mine and realize that instead of rivets they used screws in the diverter and the diverter is on the backside.

IMG_20140201_144516.jpg

addressed this issue tonight. Used blind rivets which were not the original type but you can't really see these during game play. This was made much easier by disconnecting the diverter from the plunger/arm. Not perfect but should make a huge difference. less than $5 at harbor freight.
http://www.harborfreight.com/hand-riveter-set-38353.html

IMG_20140214_220833.jpg
 
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Received Great Plains shipment and finally found some time to work on this tonight. Slow progress thus far.
replaced J115 and J120 and reflowed solder on all the connectors on driver board. Didn't replace J121 which was connected to back box lighting as it both the pins and connector looked fine.
Also removed the battery holder from cpu board, which had a bit of corrosion but no damage to board.

IMG_20140223_203536.jpg
 
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