Rookie asking for 19" monitor help

blackdog

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Hello, I just purchased a cabinet with a monitor issue. There is no color to it (except blue) and there are horizontal crossed lines across the screen.
I have tried to look for some chassis ID specs but can't find anything except 69x0984-100 and 25x2978-001. It is a red chassis circuit board (I know that doesn't mean much).
I would appreciate any assistance. I assume that a cap kit would be in order, but I would like to get more info as to what to order. Hopefully these pics will help. I am just getting into the arcade scene. Thanks!
 

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Somewhere on the chassis of the monitor there should be a label with the manufacturer and model number. If you can find that and post it, the monitor gurus can tell you which capkit you need.

It is hard (for me) to tell from the pictures, but that looks like a Wells Garner 4600 of some flavor. If you could get a little more of a looking down view of the chassis, it would help.

ken
 
It's definitely a WG 4600.

From the pictures, it would seem that either the blue gun is shorted in the picture tube, or you've just got the screen control cranked up too far. I've personally not seen a 4600 with a shorted tube (they tend to be very long-lived tubes), but still. Anything is possible.

The 4600 is well known for it's problems with bad solder connections. While you're recapping it, reflow the solder points on the plug-in card connectors. Also, the black level pot fails pretty often too, many cap kits even include this.

Start by checking cold solder joints and making adjustments to the cutoff/drive controls for the individual colors. The neckboard has a connector that plugs into the input board, check to make sure that's seated correctly, and that there are no cold solder joints there. And as always, if you plan to use the monitor, recap!

-Ian
 
I just walked through a very similar situation with a K4900. You can read about it here if you like;

http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=140005

I haven't updated it yet, but since the last post in that thread I sent the chassis to another member who tested it on his tube. The blue bias is in the tube. Also, I find it easiest to diagnose colors by disconnecting each color at the tube socket and then using jumpers to reconnect each color to all three guns one at a time. Doing that, you can tell pretty quickly if it's a particular drive circuit, gun, etc.

That said, your blue extends all the way to the edges, well outside the raster field. As I understand it, that's indicative of an H-K short in the blue gun. Those diagonals are flyback lines, and are caused by excessive screen voltage or a bad tube. First, drop your screen down as Retro suggested until the lines just disappear. You should be able to see the image clearly without that much "screen" (intensity). If you're still all blue outside the defined image edge, power down, discharge, and check the heater to blue resistance. It should be very high, if not open. If it's not, you may have an H-K short (heater to blue).
 
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Thanks for the replies! I thought I had adjusted every control, but I'll go back and double check on that, as well as investigate what pldoolittle mentioned. I am a little scared of poking around near electrical, but I'll take it slow.
 
I am a little scared of poking around near electrical, but I'll take it slow.

Electricity is only scary because it's invisible. If it were visible like fire, you'd sit your kids around it with marshmallows and tell them not to touch the orange stuff.

Three basic safety rules to remember.
1. UNPLUG IT. (note: the power switch doesn't count)
2. Discharge the tube. (search this forum).
3. Don't short big capacitors with tools or fingers.

If you have to work it live/hot, you need more experience around electronics first. It's not any harder, you just need to know what you can touch, when, and with what.
 
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