roller disco resetting

pinkpot

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ok everything is fixed on my roller disco...except the outhole ejector, changed the coil nothing...
reseated the connector pin 1 on j7 as pin repiar said. nothing
any others thoughts? i know there is some thing on system 1 games under the playfield for the outhole...i found it but dont know how to test it or see if thats the problem...any helpers again?
thanks in advance!
 
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Wow yeah that sucks! Did you check out the marvin3m.com repair guides?
 
If the connectors have never been replaced on that game, I guarantee you need to replace ALL of them before it will be a reliable game. You would be well served to also go over the power supply for correct voltages.

Check your MPU for acid damage from that NI-CAD battery, often times it eats that board pretty bad.

Sys 1 games are quite reliable once you redo the connectors and go through the boards, despite their bad reputation amongst many collectors.
 
the boards are really clean, not sure if the connectors have been replaced.
what are those tools called that u can pop out the connectors in the harness?
really should buy 1 for that job.
 
tools called that u can pop out the connectors in the harness?

i use a NTE 38 amp chip cause it has nice big rectangular legs that fit perfect into the connector for popping the pins out

all you really need to do is collapse the lock in the pin to release it from the connector
 
finally got the time to really study all the repair stuff and got roller disco running...
the slam switches were open! these system 1 they must be closed....only 1 more wire needs to be reconnected....
i have a fluttery flipper....would that be the coil/sleeve?
 
was definatly a coil, fixed, that...
kept blowing the 10 amp playfield light fuse. after 3 i put a 20 amp to see what would happen...no problems yet, but it calls for a 10 amp...those keep blowing...should i go up to 1 15 amp?
and what really does that do if u go up in amps? run hotter?
 
was definatly a coil, fixed, that...
kept blowing the 10 amp playfield light fuse. after 3 i put a 20 amp to see what would happen...no problems yet, but it calls for a 10 amp...those keep blowing...should i go up to 1 15 amp?
and what really does that do if u go up in amps? run hotter?

What happens? You'll burn shit up and cause more problems than you currently have.
I understand the thrill of "it works this way! Fuse is no big deal."

Wrong! It's a huge deal. Don't run a 20a fuse in a circuit designed for a 10a. Not even for a little bit. really, seriously not messing with you - it is a bad, bad thing.

You most likely have a short on the playfield lights somewhere. Check bulb sockets to make sure they aren't touching any metal, etc. You may have to disconnect some sections of the playfield light harness and break the entire lighting system down into "chunks" to determine the source of the problem. An easy test that might help would be to remove every single light bulb from the circuit....does the fuse still blow? If so, you've got a shorted wire somewhere. If not, start adding bulbs into the circuit one at a time (with power off) - checking every time if the fuse blows. You might get lucky this way and isolate the particular socket that is causing problems (probably not, but it's worth a shot)

You can build a cheap 10a circuit breaker to use while fixing the problem - that way you aren't going through a bunch of fuses (see pinrepair.com for info on building the circuit breaker). Take the 20a fuse out now - you are literally playing with fire there.

Pinball rule #1 - no lubrication
Pinball rule #2 - don't overfuse a circuit
 
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What happens? You'll burn shit up and cause more problems than you currently have.
I understand the thrill of "it works this way! Fuse is no big deal."

Wrong! It's a huge deal. Don't run a 20a fuse in a circuit designed for a 10a. Not even for a little bit. really, seriously not messing with you - it is a bad, bad thing.

You most likely have a short on the playfield lights somewhere. Check bulb sockets to make sure they aren't touching any metal, etc. You may have to disconnect some sections of the playfield light harness and break the entire lighting system down into "chunks" to determine the source of the problem. An easy test that might help would be to remove every single light bulb from the circuit....does the fuse still blow? If so, you've got a shorted wire somewhere. If not, start adding bulbs into the circuit one at a time (with power off) - checking every time if the fuse blows. You might get lucky this way and isolate the particular socket that is causing problems (probably not, but it's worth a shot)

You can build a cheap 10a circuit breaker to use while fixing the problem - that way you aren't going through a bunch of fuses (see pinrepair.com for info on building the circuit breaker). Take the 20a fuse out now - you are literally playing with fire there.

Pinball rule #1 - no lubrication
Pinball rule #2 - don't overfuse a circuit

awesome thanks for the tip...it was only in for a few minutes to see what the deal was..
didnt wanna leave it in there without knowing what it would do...thanks!
 
awesome thanks for the tip...it was only in for a few minutes to see what the deal was..
didnt wanna leave it in there without knowing what it would do...thanks!

Fortunately you got lucky this time. In the future just don't do it. If something bad is going to happen as a result it's likely to happen in a fraction of a second once power is applied.

I've fixed lots of boards for people who thought it was a good idea to over-fuse a circuit and let the smoke out.
 
ok everything is fixed on my roller disco...except the outhole ejector, changed the coil nothing...
reseated the connector pin 1 on j7 as pin repiar said. nothing
any others thoughts? i know there is some thing on system 1 games under the playfield for the outhole...i found it but dont know how to test it or see if thats the problem...any helpers again?
thanks in advance!


Is the trough switch making good contact and actually recognizing that a ball is resting in the trough?

Power to the coil? You should have power at both lugs if the game is turned on.
 
Is the trough switch making good contact and actually recognizing that a ball is resting in the trough?

Power to the coil? You should have power at both lugs if the game is turned on.

it add up the score bonus then goes to the next ball but doesnt fire.
u can slide it over and still play.

how do u check the coil power?...never did that yet
 
One lead of your multimeter on any lug of the coil, and the other lead to ground. If the machine is on, you should measure power at the coil lugs (all of them). I'm not sure what voltage your coils runs at, but you could test any working coil and you should see a similar range.

While you are in there, check the diode too....and inspect the wires for breaks/shorts. But I assume you did this when you swapped out the coil.

If you do have power at the coil lugs and it won't fire, you'll probably need to start tracking down whatever transistor fires that coil and see if it is shorted open.

If you don't have power at the lugs, you need to trace the wires back to the board and check for continutity. Broken wire/bad connector, etc.


One more thing to check on the outhole switch if your coil power is OK - (this is just a general thought since I don't know your particular machine) - are there 2 contacts that should be "made" on that switch? One to score the bonus, and one to indicate a ball is resting in the trough? If so, check that both switches make good contact and are clean. Could be only your scoring switch is making. (and again, I don't know if this is even supposed to work this way with your machine).
 
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