Rocky and Bullwinkle Issue

All I get at start up are some solid lights on playfield and head. This along with the ball launch and out lane coils remaining solidly energized.

Ok yeah, definitely pull fuses for solenoids and flashers before you fry anything else. You need to get your CPU running first. That repair guide should be helpful there.

Good luck!
 
I tried to check the transistors on the CPU and they were too small and tight to measure them in the machine. I may pull out the board tomorrow and try again.
 
I think any brand is fine... looks like Mouser and Digi Key have ST brand... should be fine. Just get TIP36C with no additional letters after the C.

I took a peek at the manual (page 29)... looks to me like the outhole coil is driven by Q46 on the CPU board... and the autolaunch coil is driven by Q23 on the CPU *and* Q1 on the PPB. Wouldn't hurt to check all of the drive transistors on both boards for shorts.

Also... looking at your original post... are you getting signs of CPU life, such as playfield lamps flashing in attract mode, correct graphics on display, etc?

If not, I'd remove all fuses for solenoids and flashers, focus on getting the CPU running first.
Weird about the drawings on P29 of the manual. I have violet/yellow going from the ball launch to the outlane kicker, then on to the PPB board. And on P29 it shows a different color wire.
 
Weird about the drawings on P29 of the manual. I have violet/yellow going from the ball launch to the outlane kicker, then on to the PPB board. And on P29 it shows a different color wire.

Couple things:

Wire colors sometimes vary from the manual to real life. This is why it's important to understand the functions of the wires.

You've mentioned "outlane kicker" and "ball launch" a couple of times... this is confusing. I'm assuming by "outlane kicker" you mean the outhole... but maybe you mean the laser kick? Best to use the exact terms in the manual.

And finally I will repeat... get your cpu up and running before you continue with the coil issues. Read the guide... you'll probably start by checking your +5v logic supply on the CPU.

Cheers!
 
Yeah sorry I get it mixed up. It is the outlane on the schematic, I guess that coil that kicks the ball back into oplay is the laser kick. I understand what you are saying abou tthe CPU but that is where my inexperience is showing. If I turn on power the laser kick and ball launch coil immediately lock on. So I will leave the PPB unplugged and work on the CPU board.

thanks again
 
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Couple things:

Wire colors sometimes vary from the manual to real life. This is why it's important to understand the functions of the wires.

You've mentioned "outlane kicker" and "ball launch" a couple of times... this is confusing. I'm assuming by "outlane kicker" you mean the outhole... but maybe you mean the laser kick? Best to use the exact terms in the manual.

And finally I will repeat... get your cpu up and running before you continue with the coil issues. Read the guide... you'll probably start by checking your +5v logic supply on the CPU.

Cheers!
Should I be able to gleen anything by starting the game with the PPB unplugged? WIll the CPU board give any trouble/issue indications when powered on without the PPB plugged in?
 
Should I be able to gleen anything by starting the game with the PPB unplugged? WIll the CPU board give any trouble/issue indications when powered on without the PPB plugged in?

I've honestly never tried that... I would just pull the solenoid fuses and leave them out until the game is up and running.

But yeah, the CPU should run without the PPB connected at all.

If the game isn't booting up at all, you need to start with checking the logic power supply (+5vdc). There are test points on the power supply and CPU board.
 
I've honestly never tried that... I would just pull the solenoid fuses and leave them out until the game is up and running.

But yeah, the CPU should run without the PPB connected at all.

If the game isn't booting up at all, you need to start with checking the logic power supply (+5vdc). There are test points on the power supply and CPU board.
will do, thanks
 
I've honestly never tried that... I would just pull the solenoid fuses and leave them out until the game is up and running.

But yeah, the CPU should run without the PPB connected at all.

If the game isn't booting up at all, you need to start with checking the logic power supply (+5vdc). There are test points on the power supply and CPU board.
So I looked over the entire CPU bpard and found all the grounds and test points. WIth the power on but the PPB unplugged I was gettinmg some of the playfield lights and a buzz from the speakers. I got a little over 4v DC out of one test point and a half a volt on the others. But here is a weird thing, I was looking at the board after turning the power off and some of th elined up transiostors on the bard were out of alignment so I just touched one to see if it was loose or anything and it was very hot to the touch and wiggled back and forth. Several wiggled back and forth then once the board cooled down they got solid again. This is awesome to learn but weird.
 

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Good morning all,
Please forgive the simple questions here but I need to re-pin/punch down some wires into the plugs on this board (previous owner had byassed a plug to go around a bad fuse socket). Can someone tell what the plugs and pins are called so I can order some along wih the tools to do it?
 
If your CPU isn't booting is there any sign of battery damage? Have you checked your 5V power? That is critical to boot. These Data East machines often have a leaking 5V capacitor that can etch through the traces on the power PCB. I've fixed a bunch of them. It was bad in my Rocky and Bullwinkle. I had to fix traces as well.
 
If your CPU isn't booting is there any sign of battery damage? Have you checked your 5V power? That is critical to boot. These Data East machines often have a leaking 5V capacitor that can etch through the traces on the power PCB. I've fixed a bunch of them. It was bad in my Rocky and Bullwinkle. I had to fix traces as well.
Yeah I finally figured out that I had issues with 4 different boards so I sent them in to have them all rebuilt. The CPU, the PPB, the power, and the audio. Now i need to figure out what tools I need to get to re punch down some loose wires on the boards. I think (all new to me) they are IDC?
 
Yeah I finally figured out that I had issues with 4 different boards so I sent them in to have them all rebuilt. The CPU, the PPB, the power, and the audio. Now i need to figure out what tools I need to get to re punch down some loose wires on the boards. I think (all new to me) they are IDC?

The original connectors were generally IDC. When I have to replace them, I don't use IDC... I just use new .156" molex-type housings, with new crimp-on pins of the correct size for that gauge of wire.

That said, if the original IDC connector is in good shape, it's generally possible to re-insert a loose wire into it. I just snip off the ragged end and carefully press the insulated wire into the connector with a tiny flat blade screwdriver. I'm sure there is a proper tool for this... I've never felt the need to invest in one.
 
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