Revolution X cap leak-o-rama

So replacing these did nothing. Basically nothing I've done to this point has made any improvement.
Ok, given these all check out fine, then it might be the 245/347 chips that @zenomorp had mentioned in his video.

I already reflowed mine, but the 245 chips at U39 & U17 got a lot of corrosion on their legs, and possibly inside the chip:
View attachment 802649View attachment 802648

Especially U39, being directly tied to the reading of the program code might need to be replaced. I have some on order.
 
Problem is traces INSIDE the board now. This is probably why nobody works on these... They have tried the battle before.

Inside is the VCC and GND layers that have to be connected in places.
 
@irepairsega,

I think I'm close to defeat. Based upon what you see here, do you think you can repair it or should I try to source a working board?
 
So a quick update. Ken @irepairsega is actually fairly close to home for me so he kindly agreed to take a look at the board. After an inspection and a few more repaired traces, he determined that the board is not really worth the cost of repair. I sourced a working board from a member here which fortunately had little to no cap leak. I removed all the SMD caps and recapped the board and it works!

After testing, I found the driver board was not working properly; quickly noticed that 2 fuses were blown. The manual called for 1.8amp fuses, but all 3 installed were 1.5 so I replaced the others with 1.5 amp and for the first time in 10 years of collecting, I finally had a "just fuses" repair!

After that, I found the Y axis gear was slipping, so as a temp fix while I source new gears I just put a piece of duct tape on the shaft, which gave the gear a bit more friction and it works!

Now I just need to do some general cleanup and we'll have a 100% working Revolution X!
 
So a quick update. Ken @irepairsega is actually fairly close to home for me so he kindly agreed to take a look at the board. After an inspection and a few more repaired traces, he determined that the board is not really worth the cost of repair. I sourced a working board from a member here which fortunately had little to no cap leak. I removed all the SMD caps and recapped the board and it works!

After testing, I found the driver board was not working properly; quickly noticed that 2 fuses were blown. The manual called for 1.8amp fuses, but all 3 installed were 1.5 so I replaced the others with 1.5 amp and for the first time in 10 years of collecting, I finally had a "just fuses" repair!

After that, I found the Y axis gear was slipping, so as a temp fix while I source new gears I just put a piece of duct tape on the shaft, which gave the gear a bit more friction and it works!

Now I just need to do some general cleanup and we'll have a 100% working Revolution X!
Sweet!
 
Oh well. You got some invaluable experience working surface mount stuff. Revel in that.

And if any of the chips weren't bad, consider removing them before you scrap the board.

I'm sorry for your loss.
 
I forgot to mention how really awesome it was to watch @irepairsega work. He was very kind and invited me to watch and learn how he does trace repair, and it was really awesome to watch a master at work!

The repair practice was fun, and at least I have a parts board in case something fails in the future. It's not so bad considering I got the cab for next to nothing and it's all original and in great cosmetic shape, just needs to be cleaned up. I post up pics when I get home.
 
Sidenote since other owners are here. How much "force feedback" does the guns make? I feel like mine are working properly, but it's been like 30 years since I pulled a trigger on one of these. I looked on Youtube, but I cant really find anything showing the guns operating.
 
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