Revist: WG6100 no 180 or 26 (at the HV board)

MonsterBash

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So I got to mess with this for about 3 hours last night..here's the details.

I have zero output from the monitor...no chatter..no 'white dot'

Spot Killer is NOT on..game plays blind

New Big Blue

The boards were caped with BR deluxe kit about 8 year ago and were never installed. The guy who did the cap kit looks like it s real nice job...I re~flowed a couple items including all pins and wires that run through the board on the neck, deflection and HV.

I installed a LV2000 and had proper voltages at pins 2 and 6 (I think those are the pins)...I had -26 and +26 exactly...with the deflection board on the bench. Both LEDs are red

I get nothing for B+ on the back of the neck board or pin 5 (I think...orange wire) on the HV..I also get nothing for 26V

I tested d100-104 and the are fine at .45..fuses buzz fine

I followed the 6100 FAQ to the end...the components calling for 'replacement' were replaced in the cap kit. I checked continuity on all caps to their traces and continuity at both sides of the plugs from the game board to the monitor

I do have neck glow and 50V coming into the chassis

All 6 chassis mounted transistors have been replaced and new isolators. All have been tested for zero continuity to chassis and all show +30V or -30V. I did find that a couple where mounted in the wrong spot on the chassis (when I replaced them all)..only to find out that the wiring was also wrong (which did match to the proper transistor). I reinstalled the transistors in their correct location and matched them to their proper colored wires as per the faq.

One thing I found interested is the pic below with the chassis mounted transistors
 

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If you have good +-26, and the issue is on the 180v side, concentrate on the HV unit...I dont have the schematic in front of me, but this sounds like a dead flyback. Look for where the 180v is generated in the HV circuit, test all the components from the input connector of HV unit to the 180v output section.

Good Luck!

Andrew
 
The flyback was replaced which obviously doesn't mean that it's good

I have the 26v at the deflection board but NOT at the HV.

So being the rookie that I am I'm assuming the HV is what generates the 180V (thus the name)?..thus pin 5 from the HV is 180 out? If that's the case at least I'll know what side to start testing on

If you have good +-26, and the issue is on the 180v side, concentrate on the HV unit...I dont have the schematic in front of me, but this sounds like a dead flyback. Look for where the 180v is generated in the HV circuit, test all the components from the input connector of HV unit to the 180v output section.

Good Luck!

Andrew
 
So this is interesting..

I brought a bunch of stuff to work today as I knew it was going to be a slow day...

Q102 tested bad even though it was brand new from Bob Roberts.

I do have another 2n3716 but my question is what could have taken this out?
 
So this is interesting..

I brought a bunch of stuff to work today as I knew it was going to be a slow day...

Q102 tested bad even though it was brand new from Bob Roberts.

I do have another 2n3716 but my question is what could have taken this out?

Solder bridge, broken trace/s, bad out of the box - who knows. Unfortunately things like this do happen and a lot of the time you end up burning two components to figure out something else is causing the failure. I'd make an uneducated guess and say to focus on the Zener diodes. Those little guys are the devil.
 
We'll I FINALLY made some progress last night.

I turns out those phucking resistors (I think...they are in the photo in the original post) were causing all kinds of grief.

What I did was remove the HV, Neck and deflection board and found I had a bunch of issue with the chassis mounted transistor. 3 of the brand new one were dead and a 4th had a broken wire..in all 3 cases of the dead one that goofy white resistor was fried ( I have no idea where that came from..was there when I bought the game).

One by one I tested and replace (and simply removed the resistor) the transistors and one by one I started getting the proper test results at the plug.

In installed the first set of HV. neck and deflection board and I FINALLY had chatter!

The pic was supper blurry and I couldn't adjust it at the flyback so I tried the other HV cage I had and presto.. it lives.

I ran the deflection board for a few hours and then replaced it with the other deflection board..ran that one over night with no issues.

So it looks like I'm 2/3 of the way to fixing my Tempest monitor..I already ordered the rebuild kit and flyback from BR to hopefully take care of the HV board.


I have one real small draw issue with the board I'm going to post in the repair section...it happens with both deflection boards thus I'm assuming it a board issue. It's so minor and only happens while the 'pull trigger to start' is on the screen. I can very much live with that
 
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