m_mcgovern
Active member
Reversing Rally - A Star Wars Cockpit Restoration Story, the final chapter -pic heavy
Whoa, once again, it has been too long between updates...but this project is getting close to complete. It was a lot more work than I thought it would be...and every time I paged through Level42's great SWCP restoration over on byoac forums, I found myself saying..."yeah, I should probably do that, too..." It doesn't help that work can get insanely busy, leaving me very little free time to work on this...anyway...I'm sorry if I am too wordy...you can always skip the text and look at the pics.
Here is how it started...
part0 http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=57689
part1 http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=58308
part2 http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=64067
part3 http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=89324
With that said...let's go back to...
Spring, 2009 (yes, 2009!)
I rebuilt the amplifone HV PCB and deflection boards using the Amplifone FAQ. At the time, I test these monitor boards in the upright Star Wars cabinet I owned (it has since been sold). I have in my possession the TO220 resistors, so I plan to mount the 50 ohm resistors to the heat sink using this fine guide: http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showpost.php?p=1294667&postcount=106
Next, I removed the Plexiglas, followed by the wooden canopy arches, in preparation for this cabinet's "surgery". I followed a nice guide put together by bones3010 here at klov forums. Using a screwdriver, I was able to gently pry apart the canopy from the base and use an open ended hacksaw blade to cut through the staples. Once all of the staples were cut, it was pretty easy to remove the canopy from the base and set aside.
Next, I removed the floor speaker plate and cleaned out under the seat. Ugh.
After it was clean, I went over it with an orbital sander to get the stubborn dirt, grime, and top layer of wood. Then, I flipped the machine on its side to remove the base plate. Since my base plate had some swelling in one corner, and was filthy, I decided to build a new one. So, to remove this one more easily, I used a circular saw to cut from wheel to wheel on either side of the center channel. This allowed me to pry out the middle channel w/o putting too much strain on the sides since the base plate. Once the center channel was removed, I went back and pulled out the staples around the perimeter with a pair of needle nose pliers. To do this, I drilled a small hole on either side of the staple for the needle nose pliers to fit in. Finally, I was able to remove the remaining two sides of the base plate, by prying from the insides.
I traced the original base plate onto a new 3/4" sheet of birch plywood and used a saw board to cut it to the proper size. Next, I traced the wheel holes. I free-handed them with a jigsaw, which worked out pretty well, except for the first one, which ended up being a bit more of an oval than a circle...but this will be under the machine and the only people that know are who are reading this post.
Whoa, once again, it has been too long between updates...but this project is getting close to complete. It was a lot more work than I thought it would be...and every time I paged through Level42's great SWCP restoration over on byoac forums, I found myself saying..."yeah, I should probably do that, too..." It doesn't help that work can get insanely busy, leaving me very little free time to work on this...anyway...I'm sorry if I am too wordy...you can always skip the text and look at the pics.
Here is how it started...
part0 http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=57689
part1 http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=58308
part2 http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=64067
part3 http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=89324
With that said...let's go back to...
Spring, 2009 (yes, 2009!)
I rebuilt the amplifone HV PCB and deflection boards using the Amplifone FAQ. At the time, I test these monitor boards in the upright Star Wars cabinet I owned (it has since been sold). I have in my possession the TO220 resistors, so I plan to mount the 50 ohm resistors to the heat sink using this fine guide: http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showpost.php?p=1294667&postcount=106
Next, I removed the Plexiglas, followed by the wooden canopy arches, in preparation for this cabinet's "surgery". I followed a nice guide put together by bones3010 here at klov forums. Using a screwdriver, I was able to gently pry apart the canopy from the base and use an open ended hacksaw blade to cut through the staples. Once all of the staples were cut, it was pretty easy to remove the canopy from the base and set aside.
Next, I removed the floor speaker plate and cleaned out under the seat. Ugh.
After it was clean, I went over it with an orbital sander to get the stubborn dirt, grime, and top layer of wood. Then, I flipped the machine on its side to remove the base plate. Since my base plate had some swelling in one corner, and was filthy, I decided to build a new one. So, to remove this one more easily, I used a circular saw to cut from wheel to wheel on either side of the center channel. This allowed me to pry out the middle channel w/o putting too much strain on the sides since the base plate. Once the center channel was removed, I went back and pulled out the staples around the perimeter with a pair of needle nose pliers. To do this, I drilled a small hole on either side of the staple for the needle nose pliers to fit in. Finally, I was able to remove the remaining two sides of the base plate, by prying from the insides.
I traced the original base plate onto a new 3/4" sheet of birch plywood and used a saw board to cut it to the proper size. Next, I traced the wheel holes. I free-handed them with a jigsaw, which worked out pretty well, except for the first one, which ended up being a bit more of an oval than a circle...but this will be under the machine and the only people that know are who are reading this post.

