Revenge From Mars sadness :(

Silverunicorn

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Donor 2011-2012
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Anyone know whick TIP107 I need to replace to fix this?

Thanks :(

Chris
 
Replying to my own post... :p

To figure these out, refer to the charts in the manual. This is Matrix B from your screen shot (PB2K diags make these SO EASY).

RFMFix2.jpg


Transistors are indicated by the Q numbers. You can see the columns are controlled by the Q6, Q10, Q14, etc. Rows are Q4, Q8, Q12, etc. When you have a complete column giving you trouble, it usually points to the associated wiring or transistor, in this case Q30.

You can find the locations of the transistors by referencing the board locations in the manual. They will show the board's component layout, find the appropriate Q number and that's where the component to replace is located. It will also be labeled on the board itself.
 
Did an initial cleaning on mine tonight. All the yellow dots mean those lights are out, is that right?

It doesn't really specify in the manual the difference between yellow or green. I haven't had a chance to go through the diagnostics much, as I pulled the playfield as soon as I got it home..
 
Did an initial cleaning on mine tonight. All the yellow dots mean those lights are out, is that right?

It doesn't really specify in the manual the difference between yellow or green. I haven't had a chance to go through the diagnostics much, as I pulled the playfield as soon as I got it home..


Yellow is an "open circuit" meaning that the lamp is most likely burned out. Red means there is a short circuit, usually meaning there is a bad bulb (not burned out, but internally shorted) or wiring issue. The green is your current reference point. In the screen shot above, you can see SilverUnicorn has selected bulb 78B. You can move this selection around to get information on the different bulbs. P2K will also highlight the general location of the bulb on the playfield (in green or yellow) and give you a quick description of the currently selected bulb (including related wire colors).
 
You gotta love the on-screen diagnostics on the Pinball 2000 machines. Hopefully, Jersey Jack will be incorporating something like this on their machines.
 
Awesome thanks for the explanation! I will be working on it again today. We just had a little baby girl on the 25th, and spent 5 nights in the hospital. Glad to be home finally!!

Yellow is an "open circuit" meaning that the lamp is most likely burned out. Red means there is a short circuit, usually meaning there is a bad bulb (not burned out, but internally shorted) or wiring issue. The green is your current reference point. In the screen shot above, you can see SilverUnicorn has selected bulb 78B. You can move this selection around to get information on the different bulbs. P2K will also highlight the general location of the bulb on the playfield (in green or yellow) and give you a quick description of the currently selected bulb (including related wire colors).
 
Capcom did a similar test mode on their pins. I know LED's don't work well in Capcoms.

I've got some LEDs in my RFM and they look spectacular. They are especially nice in that machine because it's otherwise a bit dark.

The LED haters must have limited experience with them, because there are all sorts of LEDs out now in different color temperatures and different configurations, with built-in caps to eliminate strobe effects and different diffusion patterns and colors. Put green LEDs in the saucers and they look a million times better than regular bulbs.
 
I've got some LEDs in my RFM and they look spectacular. They are especially nice in that machine because it's otherwise a bit dark.

The LED haters must have limited experience with them, because there are all sorts of LEDs out now in different color temperatures and different configurations, with built-in caps to eliminate strobe effects and different diffusion patterns and colors. Put green LEDs in the saucers and they look a million times better than regular bulbs.

I think he means the functionality not how well they look.
 
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