Restoring my Playchoice 10

billund

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Greetings all,

I am in the process of restoring a Playchoice 10. I started this tread to see if I could get some help as I proceed with the build. Special thanks to qbass187 and NERDtendo for their help already.

1. I took the front glass panels off and found some inside bezels around the monitor made out of what looks like heavy duty black construction paper. Is this normal? I will just paint them if they are normal.

I will post pictures tonight but if anyone has an immediate answer that would be awesome.
 
I am starting to the think the blue is gone or going. Would a cap kit fix this?

Thanks again all.
 
I have decided to install a cap kit on the monitor. One problem:

Having never installed a cap kit before I am worried about doing it myself.

Anyone have any tips?

Can anyone install it for me in exchange for frosty beverage funds?

Any help would be awesome. Thank you all.
 
First place is to start is a cap kit. Its not the hardest thing to do by yourself, but if you have the certain model (non 20EZ) Nintendo monitors, the board is connected with a ton of wires and may not be real easy to remove. Some others have reported that they were able to leave most wires connected and just popped the board sideways (facing outward), just enough to be able to do the cap kit.
 
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Hi john2654,

Thanks so much for the message. Location updated.....Fargo, ND

I am planning to remove the entire top monitor as I heard that is the easiest way to get at the board and disconect it. Will dischage first of course :)

Here is the info I got off the top (problem child) monitor:

354806
CRT Type
model 20-Z2AW
51OUTB22

I believe the cap kit I need is this one:

http://cgi.ebay.com/cap-kit-NINTEND...312?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item53e07c6528

Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you again.
 
Yeah, the 20-Z2AW model involves a little more to disassemble than the 20EZ.

A lot of us order our parts from Bob Roberts. http://www.therealbobroberts.net/
He has tons of parts available.
I would suggest you do a "20EZ 13"/19" - Deluxe Kit [Plus & Audio Bd Kit]" and be done with it. It is $12.00, but Bob always charges Priority Mail shipping. You can get some other parts while you are at it.

look under Sanyo
http://www.therealbobroberts.net/caps.html
20EZ 13"/19" - Deluxe Kit [Plus & Audio Bd Kit] $12.00

If you don't know how Bob ordering works, you email him your order, he emails you the total, you confirm by email then physically mail him a check and then he ships your items. If you are trustworthy, he will even cross ship your order. NO PAYPAL
 
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LOL Thanks Ghostnuke....considering I live in Fargo, if I can survive the weather, I can hopefully survive this restoration ;)

I will get in touch with Bob and order the cap kit you recommended. Considering I have never installed a cap kit before, is this some thing you think I can handle myself or should I send it out?(have not found anyone locally to do it)

Do you think Bob does cap kits if I send the board?

Thanks again for all the help.
 
No, Bob does not do repairs. It is fairly easy to just do it yourself.
All you have to do is wait a couple days without powering on the monitor (what I do for safety), then try to discharge the tube. If a pop is heard, wait a couple minutes and try to discharge one more time. If no pop, then move on. Easiest way is to remove the chassis from the monitor frame to get clear access to the top and bottom of the board.

As I mentioned, this model is not that easy of removing off the frame and disconnecting from the tube because of all the wires. You can try to just remove the chassis screws and somehow point the bottom of the board so it sticks out towards you.

The kit will come with all required caps and he usually includes a cap list so you can check off the cap one at a time. I start from the top, it will list cap size and the location on the board i.e.- C104. Just do it one at a time. To remove caps easily, I'd recommend getting a desoldering iron from radio shack or elsewhere.

Make sure you know how to properly discharge a tube, if not there are threads on this.
 
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Hey John,

Bob was awesome!!! Everything came in fine. I have yet to tackle the cap kit, but will soon. Need to get a desodering iron.

Two other things on my shopping list. Both bulbs behind the coin door retun buttons are out. What number bulbs do I need to replace them (#47, #46)? I looked on the bulb but no numbers.

Also, will a wells gardner replacement red coin buttn work with the PC 10? One of the coin door buttons is cracked.

Thanks again for all the help.
 
Bulbs are either type 44 or 47 6.3 VDC. I'm pretty sure I use type 44 myself.
bayonet.jpg



For the coin door, it was the same model used on the playchoice, punchout, mario bros.
The reject button looks to be a standard button requiring 2 screws per button. You might be safer just replacing the red reject button itself. Just take the two screws off the rear of the button and the front will pop off.
Someone on here might also have a spare reject button if you post a want post.

7466_0_fs.jpg


7466_1_fs.jpg
 
Thanks so much John

I will go with the type 44 bulb and see what happens :)

Here is the button I have. Mine does not even have 25c on it. I was looking at these:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=360127683670&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

Not sure if they would work though. If you don't think they would work (I have discovered Nintendo is fussy about only using their parts), where would you recommend I post to look for another one.

Thank you so much again for all the help.
 

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I'd post a "WTB: Playchoice coin reject button" post on
http://forums.arcade-museum.com/forumdisplay.php?f=12

I know Nintendo stuff usually only works with Nintendo stuff so I wouldn't go buying a different brand coin reject button unless someone could confirm it.

The Nintendo buttons does look more square as compared to the Wells replacement.
 
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