Restoring a game? Want to try a new button hole drill?

p1001

Well-known member
Joined
May 23, 2007
Messages
1,934
Reaction score
352
Location
Illinois
Restoring a game? Want to try a new button hole drill?

One of my vendors gave me a sample of their USA made hole cutter. I've had excellent history with their products for more than 20 years. This unit looks very promising for clean button holes.

Unfortunately I'm not doing any CP restoration right now. Would somebody like to give this a test drive on a metal control panel for me? Send me a PM with your address and I'll mail it to you. Only string attached is that you have need to drill button hole now and you'll post your honest results.

100_0908.jpg
 
I'll be drilling holes in 5 metal control panels between now and Dec 19th, so if you can get it to me fast, I can use it and let you know. Will you be wanting it back?
 
That looks exactly like what I could use... I've drilled many cp holes... end up always dulling out my bit.. get maybe two uses out of them , then its to the garbage...


nice...

if doesn't work out for Mod.. let me know... and where we can get one if it does work out...
 
Ask him if he has one for a 3" hole for trackballs in metal panels. I've dulled several hole saws, sometimes after the first use.
 
I've been using a hole punch from Hongkong Fooey Tools, which works great. I'll be posting some pics in the restore section. THe biggest probelm is that it is a 1" hole punch and the buttons take a 1-1/8" so I have to get the Dremmel out and grind it out a shade. It only takes a minute or two but it would be nice not to have to. That drill bit looks awesome. I've got several holes to drill in a Bally metal CP and that would be the real deal.

ken
 
That looks like it is for wood though. Usually any metal cutting tools are very fine spaced teeth like a hacksaw. That looks more like a table saw blade made for wood.

It might catch quite forcefully when it gets through to the other side.
 
That looks like it is for wood though. Usually any metal cutting tools are very fine spaced teeth like a hacksaw. That looks more like a table saw blade made for wood.

It might catch quite forcefully when it gets through to the other side.

+1

That looks to me like someone's answer to holesaws that have finer teeth and get bound with saw dust requiring you to rock it around or repeativly pull it out and brush the compacted saw dust from the teeth. Not sure it's for both metal and wood... Carbide teeth?
 
Nope. Designed to cut thin metal, especially stainless. There is a shoulder that limits the depth of cut to about 1/8" or so. Keeps the bit from popping through the other side.

As for how smooth it cuts, that's what the test will tell us.

That looks like it is for wood though. Usually any metal cutting tools are very fine spaced teeth like a hacksaw. That looks more like a table saw blade made for wood.

It might catch quite forcefully when it gets through to the other side.
 
Send me a PM with your address. I'll send you something that'll make you pitch the Chinese punch and die.

I've been using a hole punch from Hongkong Fooey Tools, which works great. I'll be posting some pics in the restore section. THe biggest probelm is that it is a 1" hole punch and the buttons take a 1-1/8" so I have to get the Dremmel out and grind it out a shade. It only takes a minute or two but it would be nice not to have to. That drill bit looks awesome. I've got several holes to drill in a Bally metal CP and that would be the real deal.

ken
 
Metal only. Doesn't have carbide teeth.


+1

That looks to me like someone's answer to holesaws that have finer teeth and get bound with saw dust requiring you to rock it around or repeativly pull it out and brush the compacted saw dust from the teeth. Not sure it's for both metal and wood... Carbide teeth?
 
That looks like it is for wood though. Usually any metal cutting tools are very fine spaced teeth like a hacksaw. That looks more like a table saw blade made for wood.

Looks like it was based on more of a milling tool rather than a "saw".

#1 mistake most people make with ANY hole saw is to run it 100 mph or as fast as the drill will possibly allow and that is what burns up the tools instead of letting the teeth actually dig in and "cut". Once you knock the very tip off the cutting edge, your tool is useless.
Low RPM and pressure. ;)
 
Looks like it was based on more of a milling tool rather than a "saw".

#1 mistake most people make with ANY hole saw is to run it 100 mph or as fast as the drill will possibly allow and that is what burns up the tools instead of letting the teeth actually dig in and "cut". Once you knock the very tip off the cutting edge, your tool is useless.
Low RPM and pressure. ;)

I think you're right. Those teeth look just like the teeth on gear groove cutters now that you say that.
 
Pictures are small because they were taken with my crappy cell camera. I can take bigger and better pics tomorrow if anyone needs them.

Well, I was the recipient of the new hole saw, and I must admit that I like it a lot. Here's the info on the packaging:

Manufacturer: P & R Co. (Price & Rutzebeck, Inc, Oroville, CA)
Tradename: Holcutters(tm)

What's nice about this hole saw is that the Cutter and the Arbor are two separate pieces:

Photo-0017-1.jpg


This means that you can use the same Arbor and just swap out the different size Holcutters. The Arbor I was sent was the 3/8" Arbor - intended for use with drills with a 3/8" chuck. The screw on the Arbor can be loosened to remove the drill bit in the center, allowing you to sharpen the bit or replace it should it become bent or dull.

The Cutter I received was the 1-1/8" Holcutter(tm). The packaging states "For Use on Materials up to 1/8" Thick". It lists 'Sizes Available from 11/16" to 3"' and has recommended Cutter speeds for a few metal types:

Tool Steel - 170 RPM
Mild Steel - 340 RPM
Soft Aluminum - 2600 RPM

Installation is easy. The Cutter has a threaded center that just screws onto the Arbor. There is a hex washer on the Arbor that the Cutter screws flush to. After drilling, the Cutter can be difficult to loosen, so a simple turn of the washer (sometimes with a pliers) will loosen it.

Okay, onto using it. I was given a beat-up Ms. Pac to turn into a 60-in-1 for a client's Xmas gift to his kids. Obviously, I need some button holes:

Photo-0016.jpg


I started with the hole on the right. I first made a pilot hole using a 1/8" bit (like I usually do with my old hole saw), then started with the new Holcutter. Since my drill doesn't have an RPM setting, I started slowly. The center bit enlarged the pilot hole, but as soon as I broke through, it wanted to either turn the entire control panel, or not turn at all (if I held the control panel still). After a few tries of trying to get the cutter to freely turn in the hole (it wouldn't - only staying in the spiral groove it first made until the blades hit the panel, then trying to turn the entire panel), I used another bit to make the center hole a bit larger. Unfortunately, this made the pilot hole a bit bigger than the bit on the Holcutter, so it wiggled a bit while cutting through, which is evident by the slightly sloppy edging of the hole.

For the hole on the left, I decided to not use a pilot hole. I placed the bit of the cutter where I wanted it, started slow, and it drilled through pretty easily, but again it caught after making it through and tried to turn the entire panel. This time - after I removed the bit - I reversed the direction of the drill, and was able to break thru the hole so that the cutter was turning freely in the guide hole. Then I made a nice clean cut through the panel (and overlay).

Perhaps a faster drill speed would have elminated the problem with the bit getting stuck in the hole. As my corded drill did not not have an RPM setting, I probably went slower than recommended.

Now, as for the things I like about this bit (besides being able to change the size of the cutter):

1) Cutting a hole without a pilot hole gave me a very nice hole in less than 30 seconds. Much faster than my old worn hole saw. The decreased time also meant less heat buildup which can mess up an overlay if you need to drill through one.

2) The little "step" edging on the bit means the bit will not drop through when the cutter breaks through. Your bit will only go through about 1/8" before stopping. This means less chance of damage to any wiring, desk, workbench, legs, etc that might be under or supporting the panel while you are drilling.


FINAL OPINION: I would buy this bit should I ever need one. Not sure what these normally cost, and I'll be inquiring to p1001 about the cost of the cutter to make trackball cutouts. Hopefully the price isn't so high that it makes more sense to just buy cheap Home Depot hole saws several times...
 
Unless I read wrong, it seems the teeth are too agressive and want to pull into the metal 'feeding' too fast. Hence the reason most whole saws have many smaller teeth. I imagine if you had that sucker in a mill machine with the panel secured solid it would do great simply the fact your machinery is so solid the sheet metal has to take the energy and therefore cutting.

This is why I asked if it was for wood in the first place. The wood would be more likely to cut and not allow the teeth to draw in with less energy required to hold the drill back. Advantage of less and larger teeth would be longevity, less material chip jams etc...

Just my opinion/view...
 
Unless I read wrong, it seems the teeth are too agressive and want to pull into the metal 'feeding' too fast. Hence the reason most whole saws have many smaller teeth. I imagine if you had that sucker in a mill machine with the panel secured solid it would do great simply the fact your machinery is so solid the sheet metal has to take the energy and therefore cutting.

This is why I asked if it was for wood in the first place. The wood would be more likely to cut and not allow the teeth to draw in with less energy required to hold the drill back. Advantage of less and larger teeth would be longevity, less material chip jams etc...

Just my opinion/view...

Maybe. The teeth did bit pretty quickly. It is no doubt for metal panels, though, and doubtless a drill press would be the preferred method of using it, but my boss doesn't believe in spending money on tools when it could be put to buying better things like cigarettes and remote control cars...
 
I would like to try one very much Im in need of adding 6 extra buttons to my die hard cp.
 
Thanks for the review. I'll talk to my rep about cost and sizes available.

Pictures are small because they were taken with my crappy cell camera. I can take bigger and better pics tomorrow if anyone needs them.

Well, I was the recipient of the new hole saw, and I must admit that I like it a lot. Here's the info on the packaging:

Manufacturer: P & R Co. (Price & Rutzebeck, Inc, Oroville, CA)
Tradename: Holcutters(tm)

What's nice about this hole saw is that the Cutter and the Arbor are two separate pieces:

Photo-0017-1.jpg


This means that you can use the same Arbor and just swap out the different size Holcutters. The Arbor I was sent was the 3/8" Arbor - intended for use with drills with a 3/8" chuck. The screw on the Arbor can be loosened to remove the drill bit in the center, allowing you to sharpen the bit or replace it should it become bent or dull.

The Cutter I received was the 1-1/8" Holcutter(tm). The packaging states "For Use on Materials up to 1/8" Thick". It lists 'Sizes Available from 11/16" to 3"' and has recommended Cutter speeds for a few metal types:

Tool Steel - 170 RPM
Mild Steel - 340 RPM
Soft Aluminum - 2600 RPM

Installation is easy. The Cutter has a threaded center that just screws onto the Arbor. There is a hex washer on the Arbor that the Cutter screws flush to. After drilling, the Cutter can be difficult to loosen, so a simple turn of the washer (sometimes with a pliers) will loosen it.

Okay, onto using it. I was given a beat-up Ms. Pac to turn into a 60-in-1 for a client's Xmas gift to his kids. Obviously, I need some button holes:

Photo-0016.jpg


I started with the hole on the right. I first made a pilot hole using a 1/8" bit (like I usually do with my old hole saw), then started with the new Holcutter. Since my drill doesn't have an RPM setting, I started slowly. The center bit enlarged the pilot hole, but as soon as I broke through, it wanted to either turn the entire control panel, or not turn at all (if I held the control panel still). After a few tries of trying to get the cutter to freely turn in the hole (it wouldn't - only staying in the spiral groove it first made until the blades hit the panel, then trying to turn the entire panel), I used another bit to make the center hole a bit larger. Unfortunately, this made the pilot hole a bit bigger than the bit on the Holcutter, so it wiggled a bit while cutting through, which is evident by the slightly sloppy edging of the hole.

For the hole on the left, I decided to not use a pilot hole. I placed the bit of the cutter where I wanted it, started slow, and it drilled through pretty easily, but again it caught after making it through and tried to turn the entire panel. This time - after I removed the bit - I reversed the direction of the drill, and was able to break thru the hole so that the cutter was turning freely in the guide hole. Then I made a nice clean cut through the panel (and overlay).

Perhaps a faster drill speed would have elminated the problem with the bit getting stuck in the hole. As my corded drill did not not have an RPM setting, I probably went slower than recommended.

Now, as for the things I like about this bit (besides being able to change the size of the cutter):

1) Cutting a hole without a pilot hole gave me a very nice hole in less than 30 seconds. Much faster than my old worn hole saw. The decreased time also meant less heat buildup which can mess up an overlay if you need to drill through one.

2) The little "step" edging on the bit means the bit will not drop through when the cutter breaks through. Your bit will only go through about 1/8" before stopping. This means less chance of damage to any wiring, desk, workbench, legs, etc that might be under or supporting the panel while you are drilling.


FINAL OPINION: I would buy this bit should I ever need one. Not sure what these normally cost, and I'll be inquiring to p1001 about the cost of the cutter to make trackball cutouts. Hopefully the price isn't so high that it makes more sense to just buy cheap Home Depot hole saws several times...
 
Back
Top Bottom