Restoration- Wurlitzer 1600

I see two "twist prong" (aluminum can style) electrolytic capacitors in the rear left corner of the picture. They will need to be replaced as part of the capkit. These style capacitors are usually part of the high voltage (450 to 500 volts) B+ power supply and are often the first to fail and take out a power transformer.

If there is a tube "missing" it's probably the tube which controls the Automatic Volume Control circuit. The amp will run without it and many operators pulled that tube out because of "low volume" complaints. The purpose of the tube was to regulate the volume between different qualities of records. Back in those days record recording standards were poor/non existant.



Both vendors stated the electrolytic can caps are not available. They were last made in 1985 according to Bickers.

A mod is now recommended, which I will try to document. It was stated the cans will be unwired, and can remain up top purely for aesthetics.
 
Depending upon the values of the can style capacitors, some of them *ARE* reproduced by Antique Electronics in Arizona.

The guys at the antique radio forums like to "re-stuff" the old can style capacitors with new caps. This involves removing the old can capacitor from the chassis and hacksawing it open just above the base. Then you boil the old guts out in an old pan you were going to throw away. This leaves you with a clean empty can and room to fabricate a framework of the new capacitors to fit inside the can. After attaching the new caps to the old base connection terminals then you seal up the can and base with either epoxy or simply a wrap with aluminum automobile "muffler" tape.

If your vendors recommended a mod by installing a terminal strip ("tie point" ) and mounting/connecting new "axial" style capacitors, this doesn't always work because of space limitations under the chassis. That's the reason can capacitors were invented to begin with: they free up space under the chassis. Your amplifier looks plenty crowded under there. Also, because wires would need to be re-routed under the chassis, you can introduce "hum" or noise problems if power supply wiring is moved near preamp audio signal wires. There's a reason why the wiring harness is laid out like it is in tube amplifiers.
 
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I may eventually restuff the cans, my uncle has done that, as he is into old guitar tube amps, not so much into this vintage, But I remember he did something like that once, I will have to ask.

Antique electronics has a nice cap selection, and mallory spec stuff, i didnt take a pic of the cans and im waiting on my service manual. For OE. That is the best option around, thanks for the info.

I agree about inducing hum issues, while that is a possibility, and does happen, If I have to add in shielding I will. I am trying to get it working firstly so I can finish trouble shooting the smaller issues.

The tone arm wiring and the rca going from the mute switch to the amp.... Fugly.


Any chance you have seen a image of the oil drip catcher/diverter?

I cant seem to find a image, and my service manual may not be here until next week.

I will be fabricating something.
 
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Here are pictures of the oil drip pans from models 1080 (bottom mount bracket) and 1450 (side mount bracket) as examples.
 

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Thanks ken .


Im going to focus on cleaning until the service manual and cap kit come in... Which I would assume would be next week.

Any suggestions on polish for thr veneer wood?

Old english? Or smth like that?
 
1100 used the same drip tray

special note near
do not use a free play plug on these units
it will burn out a coil
for a good read up on it
as john at flippers.com


your best bet here is to bend the switch behind the coin up pawl
in the manual under "coin in operation"
this will disengauge the proper coils at the end of play

20 or 40 weight oil (degertent free) is the same as singer sewing machine oil >3in1<
get the good brand not the cheap crap

yes we stuff the larger cans..if u plan to sell in the future ?

get good english made tubes not russian made (there specs are all over the board)

i will think of more as i go
nice score and good luck.:) they sound fanastic and look a good when done proper

ed
 
Thanks for the info ed.

I was under thr impression singer brand sewing machine oil was too light of an oil. I will read the manual when I get it. Im still waiting should be here soon.

Will I sell this juke whrn its operational?

I would like a unit with more holding capacity.

With replaceablr cheaper stylus would be nice as well.

The cobra ones are about 60$-70usd.

I have seen there is a way to modify it. But additional weight is needed as well to balance.

I believe I have enough of the coin mech to do that modification, but I would have liked to keep it coin op.

I believe the reset mech selenoid was not getting enough power to actuate... This being due to the power from thr amplifier not putting out the correct voltages.

There was also a 5w ? Resistor that was cracked in half that was in thr coin circuit that needs to be replaced.

I put in a price quote request in with victoryglass for a few misc parts.

I hope they are not too expensive so I can purchase them. But if they are out of my price range at the moment, I will have to wait.

Perhaps sell a couple of boards and raise some cash.
 
The Cobra cartridge is now very expensive and doesn't play stereo 45's very well at all. The Cobra works on radio principles.

If possible, convert the tone arm to accept a modern magnetic cartridge. Of course this also involves not only modifying the tone arm itself, but also the amplifier too since you need a RIAA magnetic cartridge preamp circuit.

http://www.carlhaines.com/jukebox/cobracompare.htm
 
The Cobra cartridge is now very expensive and doesn't play stereo 45's very well at all. The Cobra works on radio principles.

If possible, convert the tone arm to accept a modern magnetic cartridge. Of course this also involves not only modifying the tone arm itself, but also the amplifier too since you need a RIAA magnetic cartridge preamp circuit.

http://www.carlhaines.com/jukebox/cobracompare.htm




Am I the only one who thinks modding old antique equipment in this fashion feels a little taboo.... But at the same time.... 45 is better than 78... And its already setup as 45...

Would be nice to have some shure white label carts installed.



...preamp... Aux input..... Bluetooth module... Guitar amp....

Hmmm
 
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we went to the mod
for a few very good reasons
1=the 60$ spent is just throwen away (might as well light a match to it)

for 1= simple reason (cobra) has not repeat not been propley reproduced
the replacements are junk period..it is a total period
thus the reason we did the mod
it is simple enough
if u are going to sell it a good byer will thk u for the mod (as they will know)

the coin mech is called a grawler (grinder)

ed
 
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http://lists.netlojix.com/pipermail/jukebox-list/2002-October/004332.html

From a jukebox list from 2002

"Jjmscf at aol.com wrote:
> My Wurlitzer 2150 manual recommends S.A.E. No.10 and waxfree for a lot of
> points.Is this the same as sewing machine oil?Also ,for the main cam and gear
> and pinions asks for Houghton Absorbed Oil,Type L3.Also same on turntable
> worm gear.Any modern substitutes?The reduction gears ask for Alvania
> No.55206A.Any modern substitutes?Never heard of either.Both are non fluid
> lubricants according to the manual.Appear to be grease to me.I need to clean
> 45 years of grime from the mech which will probably remove the
> lubricants.This one's coated with cigarette smoke residue.

For the oil, I have both Singer sewing machine oil and a Zoom spout
oiler. I got the Singer oiler from a local fabric store. The problem
with the Singer is that it doesn't have much oil in it and it is quite
slow in delivery. The advantage was that it is available locally, which
is why I bought it. I then ordered the Zoom oiler with a cap kit. The
Zoom oiler is cheap($2 I think) and hardly worth ordering on its own.
The Singer oiler cost me $4-$5. For the grease, I just grabbed some
wheel bearing grease out of my garage. I may get some lubriplate in the
future, but as long as you use some decent grease you shoulf be OK.

Carl Haines"



http://qclubricants.com/aeroshell/alvania.htm

Shell Gadus Grease

Formerly known as Alvania Grease

Gadus S1 grease seems to be the new name



-------

Has anyone used this grease or what are people using now?

Sae 10w non detergent. Oil seems to be what is currently available in spec with original requirements.

Singer oil is very light.... And I do have that at home...







Has anyone packed the gearbox bearings with grease?


Or know where I can get the gasket #54817 replacement

Or would rtv silicone sufice?
 
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for the gasket we cut our own
your us bound
so habor frieght ?
ask for thin gasket material. that is all they used

as for grease
it all depends on how long u want the grear box to hold betwen rebuilds
as long as it degertent free u are good to go
but do go easy on the grease weight

as for singer oil
u would be suprised how far a little will go once it is worked in

ed
 
The units lubrication is old and gummy.

I will be cleaning and re lubricating as I go, making a check list so I do not forget the areas done.

Is there a writeup or video on rebuilding the gearbox?

I would like to do that before I put this into service.


I have an issue with the selector reset, i may need to get a feeler guage in there and make an adjustment. Nothing gets reset at the moment.


I will hit the auto shops on the way home to find some grease for the bearings... And gasket material at HF.




I did not see a writeup addressing the 518 amplifier for modding in a magnetic cartridge.

I will have to compare the 526 to 518 chematics as to where they are making the mods and toss up some plans for review before I make those mods.



At the moment I will

1. Rebuild the amp.
2. Clean and lube the gears
3. Clean/wash switch assembly
4. Rewire input power with a service box in cabinet with three switches and a service outlet for preamp/repair, one for main, one for ballast, one for led lighting
5. Recut glass for under switch assemblt above contoured glass
6. Consider rebuilding the gearbox



Manual from victory glass came in usps 3 day.

Their shipping was faster than my amp kit from Arizona.... Tisk tisk




Also


Riaa lreamp equalizer. Should just say. Phono preamp... "PylePro - PP999 - Phono Turntable Pre-Amplifier" 16.99 at walmart online.
 
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the cobra has a interface to the amp.?
as your's is 1600 they my have put it in the amp ?
this is where u mod
here is the reason wurli used rf for the pickup of the cobra
what u are doing is by-passing all that with a mag cart.
so u need to by-pass mod
the schematic will help u alot
if not i know ken will ring in if not i will

the gear box is real easy..take a few pictures of it with the cover off
i know ppl do not like this,but my turn to stuff for gear box's is lacquer thinner
use with vents

ed
 
Thanks for the info guys.

4:30pm and no cap kit in the mail. Which sucks because he said he was going to send it usps flat rate... From arizona it ahould have been here.




We have a cap kit people. Postman forgot it on truck but came back since it was on way back to station... Or because I called lol



UPDATE---


22 OF THE 40 caps installed... These schematic s suck.

The fact some caps had been previously replaced with higher rated ones, some under voltage rated :(

I went through and replaced them all from section to section.

I believe the can caps are going to give me the most trouble, as they have already been screwed with a lot.

Pics in morning.


I have a resistor I have no idea what it is. It is directly off the coin mech socket.
 
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Updating in progress


Here is a pic of the resistor I can not find the value of.

It is under the reg mech socket on what look like pin 6 and 8. HELP.

20170619_012752.md.jpg






Rest of update.


Caps replaced so far, I am seeing 2-3 times of caps being replaced. And some caps are missing completely. Tiny value caps off input.
20170619_001739.md.jpg




Tomarrow to be replaced

20170619_012836.md.jpg


20170619_012844.md.jpg




Not sure what this black tube is. A cap but not sure which.... Yet

20170619_001451.md.jpg




Progress so far
20170619_001416.md.jpg


The glass was dirty:
20170614_213319.md.jpg


Selectors are dirty..... Should I wash them ouside with simple green?
20170614_213346.md.jpg
 
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the switch bank de-xoit
that shell u posted is degertent based (no-no)
that wire hanging off could be from the flourscent light ?
that resistor is a 1watt carbon type (go no less) then 1watt
try to advoid wire wound
that black can is a dc filter,u drill out the rivet and find all the info
mind the poliarty

ed
 
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